#4 1/2 Smoother - LN vs Clifton...

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
woodbloke":15t7obcz said:
paulm":15t7obcz said:
For what it's worth Aled, I sold most of my LN planes and went with Cliftons instead.
...but what you didn't say Paul, is that it was the collectors special edition(s!) that you went for :-" :-" :lol: :lol: - Rob

And very nice they are, too 8)

Cheers :wink:

Paul
 
Well, I wasn't going to mention it but as others brought it up :-"

DSCN0359.jpg


DSCN0360.jpg


DSCN0362.jpg


Cheers, Paul
 
I think that graffiti would come off with some wet and dry :wink:

Pete
 
paulm":yycly825 said:
Racers":yycly825 said:
I think that graffiti would come off with some wet and dry :wink:

Pete

You're a bad, bad person :lol: :lol:
...or a 10" turnip file (hammer)...or maybe an angle grinder would be easier. Need some goggles though (tap, tap) :lol: :lol: - Rob
 
Hi Aled

Just for reference, the Clifton #4 1/2 blade works beautifully with the LN #4 1/2 (I know!).

Now if you are to get the LN, I would recommend the 55 frog as well. This is the advantage of LN over Clifton - you get a choice of frogs. The LN would then be a go-to plane for interlocked grain (especially since you are selling the LAJ ... why?).

I find mine moves quite sweetly with a scribble of candle wax on the sole.

Here are my two LNs, #4 1/2 and #3 ..

LN2.jpg


Not the ultimate performers that the LV BU planes are, but very nice to use (and preferred when I just want to freehand sharpen and not use a honing guide with the BU planes).

I've found almost every A2 iron I've used to be a bit of a pain to sharpen ...

When I read comments like this I can only assume that someone is using the wrong media. A2 sharpens up almost as easily - perhaps as easily - as O1 when using waterstones such as Shaptons. They get as sharp then and hold the edge significantly longer.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Thanks for that Derek, I'm pretty much set on getting a plane directly from LN now, it's just a case of which frog to choose. Bearing in mind that my Cliftons work superbly on the woods I usually use (ash, oak, sycamore and maybe a little walnut) I think that I might just go for the 50 degree frog, 55 seems a bit extreme for my use. I'm still not quite sure, I'll mull it over for a couple of days and see where I get to.

As regards the O1/A2 issue, I think that it's pretty much a personal thing, I have nothing against otheres using A2, it's just not for me. :wink:

Cheers
Aled
 
paulm":3rynyb29 said:
Well, I wasn't going to mention it but as others brought it up :-"

DSCN0359.jpg


DSCN0360.jpg


DSCN0362.jpg


Cheers, Paul

Hmmm Droooooool!!! Very nice indeed, I wish that they would move over to walnut handles permanently.

I considered buying one, but again the "voice of reason" stepped in - damn that "voice of reason"!!

Cheers
Aled
 
Aled Dafis":2wc193ki said:
Hi Aled

Just for reference, the Clifton #4 1/2 blade works beautifully with the LN #4 1/2 (I know!).

Now if you are to get the LN, I would recommend the 55 frog as well. This is the advantage of LN over Clifton - you get a choice of frogs. The LN would then be a go-to plane for interlocked grain (especially since you are selling the LAJ ... why?).

I find mine moves quite sweetly with a scribble of candle wax on the sole.

Here are my two LNs, #4 1/2 and #3 ..

LN2.jpg


Not the ultimate performers that the LV BU planes are, but very nice to use (and preferred when I just want to freehand sharpen and not use a honing guide with the BU planes).

I've found almost every A2 iron I've used to be a bit of a pain to sharpen ...

When I read comments like this I can only assume that someone is using the wrong media. A2 sharpens up almost as easily - perhaps as easily - as O1 when using waterstones such as Shaptons. They get as sharp then and hold the edge significantly longer.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Thanks for that Derek, I'm pretty much set on getting a plane directly from LN now, it's just a case of which frog to choose. Bearing in mind that my Cliftons work superbly on the woods I usually use (ash, oak, sycamore and maybe a little walnut) I think that I might just go for the 50 degree frog, 55 seems a bit extreme for my use. I'm still not quite sure, I'll mull it over for a couple of days and see where I get to.

As regards the O1/A2 issue, I think that it's pretty much a personal thing, I have nothing against otheres using A2, it's just not for me. :wink:

Cheers
Aled

Why not just buy an extra blade and sharpen it with a 5-15 degrees backbevel?
Changing blades is much easier than changing frogs. A thick QS blade costs about
20 pounds, much cheaper than a LN frog.

Ali
 
ali27":1wcpbgvv said:
Why not just buy an extra blade and sharpen it with a 5-15 degrees backbevel?
Changing blades is much easier than changing frogs. A thick QS blade costs about
20 pounds, much cheaper than a LN frog.

Ali

That idea came to me today, and is probably the one I'll go for. I've been meaning to find an excuse to try out the Quansheng irons for a while, so I might get one for my abuseable Stanley 4 1/2 and take it from there.

That's it, decision made, LN 4 1/2 with 50 degree frog and O1 iron directly from LN. (which is pretty much what I knew I would buy, but thanks all the same for helping me make my mind up)

Cheers
Aled
 
Aled Dafis":33jeab3h said:
Yes they are very good, but given the budget, I'd probably go for a couple of these.

http://sauerandsteiner.blogspot.co.uk/

Cheers
Aled
They obviously pay teachers far too much these days! :lol: ...didn't happen when I was at the 'chalkface' (or should that be whiteboard face now?)...I had to rough it with me Norris panel plane :mrgreen: :lol: :lol: - Rob
 
woodbloke":2dlfpejl said:
Aled Dafis":2dlfpejl said:
Yes they are very good, but given the budget, I'd probably go for a couple of these.

http://sauerandsteiner.blogspot.co.uk/

Cheers
Aled
They obviously pay teachers far too much these days! :lol: ...didn't happen when I was at the 'chalkface' (or should that be whiteboard face now?)...I had to rough it with me Norris panel plane :mrgreen: :lol: :lol: - Rob

I did say "given the budget" :wink: :D :D
 
I have a hundred yr. old Stanley 4-1/2. I bought it for $70. It needed some work when I first got it, But the thing works beautifully. Aside from upgrading the iron, I can't see replacing it with a plane that costs so much more. Why would you need to? am I missing something?
 
dr.nick":3ayldvek said:
I have a hundred yr. old Stanley 4-1/2. I bought it for $70. It needed some work when I first got it, But the thing works beautifully. Aside from upgrading the iron, I can't see replacing it with a plane that costs so much more. Why would you need to? am I missing something?

The extra weight of a clifton or lie nielsen can be quite addictive (or a PITA depending on your POV :shock: )
 
If it's a hundred years old it's probably made to similar specifications as the modern top end planes and will work beautifully. Also quite possibly worth a bit more than $70 now so an investment as well as a good tool.

If it were less than 70 years old the story is not quite so rosy.

I would guess that the original purchase price for yours was a bigger percentage of a contemporary working man's monthly earnings than the modern equivalent.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top