Workbench finsihes and Planing finished wood....

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Paul Kierstead

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The set-up to the question: I have been eyeing my Veritas Workbench for a bit now, knowing it is approaching time to flatten it. It has been in use for 4 years and I have been at the point of working around the non-flat bits for a bit too long. It is finished with spraying lacquer (from the factory), very easy to strip off (as I have discovered by mistake...).

But the question does arise. You often see two bits of advice for workbenches:

1) You need to flatten semi-often
2) Various bits of advice on finishing.

I don't think I have ever seen bit (2) relate to bit (1). Clearly a purely surface film finish such as lacquer can be stripped relatively easily, but how well do the various finishes plane? I would imagine that a non-curing oil would plane very easily, but otherwise, I am curious as to peoples experience planing finished items.
 
Once a year my grandfather told me - in the spring was his recommendation, but I've read of many expert woodworkers who do it at very different times of the year.
I did mine a few months ago and it takes just a few minutes (10 maybe) It's 5 years old now and after the first year when it seemed to have settled and moved the most, it was a very easy and quick thing to do.

It's mostly now for me about removing the shellac and paint rather than flattening it. :oops:

I must admit once it is done and wiped down with boiled linseed oil, it does make me very proud as I stand back and admire it
 
Spring or autumn were recommended as being Mid Season ie a good average re humidity. An annual or bi annual clean up is a good idea, hopefully little removed except for the first time!

Benches will tend to change shape due to changes in humidity unless they are perfectly constructed out of Quarter sawn stable timber.

If laquered, it will be best to refinish with something or strip the whole thing, both top and underside.

Finish slows the rate of moisture exchange with the atmosphere, so it is important to do the same thing to both sides, otherwise 'curling' is encouraged.

I prefer unfinished, but a thin application of shellac or oil may help to keep clean and ease removal of glue etc. Of course glue should never be spilt on benches, use polythene or newspaper to protect when doing glue ups!

Thick shiny finishes are undesirable, as they are slippery.

David Charlesworth
 
Thanks for the replies!

Ok, shellac is easily stripped enough, but any curing oil is not going to be so trivial to remove. So, when you re-flatten it, do you attempt to strip the oil, or just plane the (hardened) oiled wood? And, if so, are their particular oils which plane better then others?
 
Paul Kierstead":baa0b5kl said:
Thanks for the replies!

Ok, shellac is easily stripped enough, but any curing oil is not going to be so trivial to remove. So, when you re-flatten it, do you attempt to strip the oil, or just plane the (hardened) oiled wood? And, if so, are their particular oils which plane better then others?
Hi Paul,

My preference for my bench top is Behlin's Teak oil. It penetrates deepely, and there is virtually little to wipe off if one doesn't flood the surface. Seals well for errant glue.

Take care, Mike
 
I also love Behlen's Teak Oil, which I've been using for a very, very long time (having lots of teak furniture). I also usually wax my bench. Not a lot of wax, but even a little helps keep it easier to dust.
 
Deirdre,

Just spotted the faux shoulder vice!

I have just replaned one of our bench tops, and the accumulated grit in the surface played havoc with the plane blade edge for the first few passes. Suspect this is a far bigger issue than the finish!

Makes me think sanding better done elsewhere.....

David Charlesworth
 
David C":2lr4fx80 said:
Deirdre,

Just spotted the faux shoulder vice!

I think (but can't be sure of the provenance) that the fake shoulder vice may be my idea; I posted the idea in a thread to Badger Pond, around 5-6 years ago.

BugBear
 
I usually give my bench a couple of coats of boiled linseed oil - seems to protect it very well between any flattening requirements
 
bugbear":rr7uwmxv said:
David C":rr7uwmxv said:
Deirdre,

Just spotted the faux shoulder vice!

I think (but can't be sure of the provenance) that the fake shoulder vice may be my idea; I posted the idea in a thread to Badger Pond, around 5-6 years ago.

Well, I knew it wasn't my idea (but I explained it over on Wood Central and didn't want to take everything here more off-topic, but here we are and that's all good).

Someone (I'd have to look it up) posted the link when I was asking about shoulder vises on Woodnet.

I think it's a brilliant best-of-both-worlds thing.
 
deirdre":4ay0e4g2 said:
bugbear":4ay0e4g2 said:
David C":4ay0e4g2 said:
Deirdre,

Just spotted the faux shoulder vice!

I think (but can't be sure of the provenance) that the fake shoulder vice may be my idea; I posted the idea in a thread to Badger Pond, around 5-6 years ago.

Well, I knew it wasn't my idea (but I explained it over on Wood Central and didn't want to take everything here more off-topic, but here we are and that's all good).

Someone (I'd have to look it up) posted the link when I was asking about shoulder vises on Woodnet.

I think it's a brilliant best-of-both-worlds thing.

'twas me.

BugBear
 
Very ingenious indeed Paul! =D>

Do you have a link to any of those older posts? I've got a fair idea of how to replicate your vise but I'd love to read the complete post.

-----------------------------

I've got to say, I was about to remove my front vise and install a leg vise in lieu of a shoulder vise (which can't be added to my bench because of my tail vise). Is that too many vises (vices?) for one post? :lol:

With the posts about add-on benches to raise your benchtop's height and pseudo-shoulder vises to supplement a front vise added to the repertoire of the bench hook and shooting board, the versatility of the workbench keeps growing and growing . . .

Is ol' Roubo turning over in his grave at the complexity (and versatility) of the modern bench? :-k :lol:
 
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