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Wood for notice board.

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Jameshow

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I have been asked along with our men's shed to make a replacement notice board for a local community centre as the previous one was to far gone to repair.

I brought some ceder from a local wood working firm but I'm wondering if it's the right wood for the job?

IMG-20211118-WA0004.jpeg


Would I be better saving it for something else and getting something harder sapele or oak?

Many thanks

James
 

Jameshow

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Bump...any advice as I need to make a start on this today....

Many thanks

James
 

Chrispy

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Well it all depends on your design really, Cedar is a very durable wood so that's OK but it is also very soft so not very good for carving or making fine joints and details and I don't think it will take a surface finish very well so best left to naturally weather, but that may be a good thing in the long run as it means little on going matainence.
 

Jones

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Cedar covers a range of species some are more durable than others but I think they all take preservative well so would be easy to protect. Depending on the softness carving may be hard to get a crisp edge and it may weather away faster so oak would be better for that.
I don't rate sapele for durability but again it's easy to preserve, it will soak up anything.
On a design point I would have the top sloping at a steeper angle to shed water better 10-15 degrees sould do it.
 

Jacob

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You see these wooden notice boards all over the place and most of them don't last more than 2 or 3 years. It's not the wood is more about detail design and finishing.
Main thing is to shed the water, with a steep pitch as Jones said, and also deep eaves all round to take it away from the box.
Next is to make the back as water tight as the front.
Have open structure with plenty of ventilation.
The pin board itself needs to be in the middle with air circulating around the back as well as the front.
Clean up + varnish or oil every year - or paint every few years
I'd go for aluminium or anodised steel myself. The off the peg metal ones are much cheaper and will last much longer.
 

Jameshow

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Thanks I go ahead with it.

I may well put some flashing arcoss the top to keep water out?

Would you use dovetails for the joints or dowels?

Cheers James
 

Jameshow

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Thanks I go ahead with it.

I may well put some flashing across the top to keep water out?

Would you use dovetails for the joints or dowels?

Cheers James
 

Doug71

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On the design front there is one in our village similar to the picture you have posted and everyone moans that the big glass top hinged door is a pain to operate, it's practically impossible for a little old lady to lift open the door and pin a notice in.

They keep hinting that I could change it for a pair of side hung doors, they don't want to pay me though, just as a favour to the community :rolleyes:
 

Cabinetman

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I have made a couple from oak and as long as you design it with a view to the weather conditions and its placement, it should be ok, that carved name board looks like it could be salvageable.
Edit forgot to press post
 

Cabinetman

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Ancillary fittings
What lock to fit? My theory has always been, there isn’t anything of value, but you want to stop naughty children being a pain, so I fit a gas type cupboard lock, everyone has a key but children won’t have one in their pockets. It’s worked well up to now.
I have used slate glued on with black CT1 for a "roof" in the past.
Cost wise it’s about the same whether you use Sundeala and baize or painted steel and magnets, Ian
 

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