wiring for pull switch

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gsaps

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hi there,
in a past thread i read that someone used a pull switch similar to one in a bathroom to control their extractor.
this sounded like a good idea so i purchased one to help re-organise my workshop but in trying to get the wiring right tonight i can't figure it out even though i'm sure it must be pretty straight forward (my mind is mush and it's only tuesday)
is this sort of switch not suitable for regular flex.. there don't seem to be the correct terminals for the wires!
i'd appreciate any advice.
thanks
grant
 
hi mambo,
i just got the regular one (from B+Q), the same (i assume) as you'd use in the bathroom to switch the light on. i just assumed that it would use regular flex and be a doddle to fit.
 
Hi gsaps,

What is the spec of your dust extractor? If it has a large motor then you may need the bigger type of pull cord switch that is used for shower units.
If you find the rating of the motor and the switch and post the details here then we will see what the next step is.
 
I wouldn't use a standard pull switch since they are usually only rated at 5A. You'll need something with a higher rating:

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_In...Mk_Accessories/Pull_Cord_B_4_15Amp/index.html
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_In...White_Mk_Accessories/Pull_Cord_B_4/index.html

Regarding wiring:

There will be either 2 or 4 terminals. If you just have 2 then the phase conductor from the mains goes into the common terminal and then the phase conductor of the extractor connects to L1.

If there are 4 then connect the phase and neutral conductors to the mains input side and then the phase and neutral of the extractor to the load side.

Hope that helps.
Davy
 
thanks for the reply guys,
Dave the extractor is a 1000w record extractor, the paperwork that came with the switch didn't say much other than "for use on 250v 50hz supplies"
the wiring diagram in the paperwork gives 2 options,
"ceiling switch 1 way" which has a digram showing only two wires entering the switch (L2 and earth) and just one leaving (COM-L) AND
"ceiling switch 2 way" which has three wires entering (L1, L2 AND EARTH) but again only one leaving (from COM-L)
i'm still dealing with brown, blue and green/yellow so i'm not sure what the phase conductor is Davey. i was just planning on putting the switch in the middle of the extension cord that the extractor is plugged into (mounted on the wall to be able to pull it)
thanks again for your help, it's looking like i got the wrong switch... B+Q love people who don't know what they're doing
grant
 
Grant,

Look at the switch, you may find that the plastic moulding on the back of it has the rating on it.

You motor is 1000w which in simple terms is 4amps, this at first sounds OK BUT it is a motor not a light fitting and I would not be happy running it with a 5amp light switch, try to swap it out for a one rated for shower units, these are anywhere between 6~8000watts, much chunkier contacts, no fear of them welding together or burning out with your motor load.
 
Phase = live (brown). It really shouldn't be called live though because that implies it is the only conductor carrying current (which isn't the case because neutral does too).

I would suggest you get one of the switches from the links I gave above. MK are a good brand with a good reputation so you know they are going to last.

They are double pole switches so you will have an input L + N and an output L + N. plus a combined earth terminal.

Put the brown conductor from the lead into the input (feed) L.
Put the blue conductor from the lead into the input (feed) N.
Put the brown conductor to the extractor into the output (load) L.
Put the blue conductor to the extractor into the input (load) N.
Ensure earth conductors are continuous throughout.

Davy

EDIT: Cheers Shadowfax, must have missed that one.
 
I am the one who mentioned the pull cord switch some time ago. I just replaced mine last week.
You must use a 16 amp switch- most often used for showers or wqater heaters. These are usually double pole switches.
Follow davy_owen_88's instructions (but I think he meant to write "Put the blue conductor TO the EXTRACTOR into the OUTPUT (load) N" for the last line.
MK are very good. Don't buy anything cheap in the switch line. It will only break.
It should work first time.
Cheers.

SF
 

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