I'm making a couple of exterior doors and would like to use my spindle moulder to scribe the stiles to the rails. I am going to place the raised panes into a groove rather than using mouldings. There seems to a lot of Tenon blocks available, and at the moment the best I've seen Is the Whitehall range. Two questions, which make would you recommend and secondly can I use my standard spindle (Sedgwick SM4) with a large nut on the tup and still scribe an ovolue under the Tenon or do I need to buy a Stub spindle?
which Spindle Moulder Tenon block
- Thread starter deema
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Allylearm
Established Member
I can only answer (my experience) on the question of whitehill. I replaced this year my old heads for my 6 Head for running flooring/T&G and "V" Lining. They are replaceable tip variety and Whitehill custom ground cutters to my spec as I run specific thickness/width and have my own corporate shape for my product line. I had one issue with first tips supplied as they were too soft and seemed to break rather easily. This was quickly rectified with new tip with stronger strength to match my materials being run and faster speed (forget what the different material was sorry). Whitehill keep my profile on file and I can phone up and receive new tips very quickly. I cannot speak highly enough of replaceable tips over my solid profiles 2/4 wing I used before. Finish is outstanding and the setup/changeover is easier now in head/moulder since purchasing a Weinig CNC Powermat from my previous Unimat.
I have some other Whitehills on my Spindle/CNC Router and they are replacement tip as well and can do both due to matching tool holder chucks. Pity Weinig have there own tool chuck specific to them. I did hear this could change with the aquirement of the CNC Router company they just took over, match heads across their ranges, why oh why they should not have thought of this is beyond me, its like BETA and VHS in video.
But to be honest I have not had much problem with heads from any supplier, just how long you wait. Lietz (great CNC ideas) seem to take forever to supply so I stay clear of them and the Leuco 6 weeks for example (good light heads well made) have varied two and four wings in my stock cutters.
I have some other Whitehills on my Spindle/CNC Router and they are replacement tip as well and can do both due to matching tool holder chucks. Pity Weinig have there own tool chuck specific to them. I did hear this could change with the aquirement of the CNC Router company they just took over, match heads across their ranges, why oh why they should not have thought of this is beyond me, its like BETA and VHS in video.
But to be honest I have not had much problem with heads from any supplier, just how long you wait. Lietz (great CNC ideas) seem to take forever to supply so I stay clear of them and the Leuco 6 weeks for example (good light heads well made) have varied two and four wings in my stock cutters.
ProShop
Established Member
I do this regularly on a spindle moulder, the block has been modified so that the tenon can go right over the top of the block, so in theory it will cut a tenon as long as you like. In reality the longest I've wanted to cut is about 140mm in two passes. The block is 125mm X 60mm. I then use the same block to create the mould.
Hope this helps
Hope this helps
tomatwark
Established Member
The nut will get in the way, so will limit the length of the tenon.
When I still made exterior doors I have in the past used a hand router and a scribing cutter from Titman or Trend when I have needed to do this and did not want to shell out on spindle or tenoner tooling.
All I used to do was clamp a piece of wood as a fence on the rail and run the router against it after I cut the tenon.
It takes a bit longer to do than with a spindle or tenoner but for a couple of doors it may be an idea for you.
Make sure you cut the scribes before the moulds so that you clean up any break out when you mould the rails.
I tend to buy Whitehill stuff as they are reliable and good quality manufacturers.
Tom
When I still made exterior doors I have in the past used a hand router and a scribing cutter from Titman or Trend when I have needed to do this and did not want to shell out on spindle or tenoner tooling.
All I used to do was clamp a piece of wood as a fence on the rail and run the router against it after I cut the tenon.
It takes a bit longer to do than with a spindle or tenoner but for a couple of doors it may be an idea for you.
Make sure you cut the scribes before the moulds so that you clean up any break out when you mould the rails.
I tend to buy Whitehill stuff as they are reliable and good quality manufacturers.
Tom
RogerS
Established Member
Does your spindle have a tapped spindle? Mine does and use a variety of blocks that are fixed with a cupped washer and a large countersunk bolt. The tenons then fly over. The only limitation I have is that the maximum tenon depth is limited by how far i can push back the cast fence assembly unless I remove it which is not for the foolhardy.
