Which power tool next?

[zodiac]

Have you got a belt sander? I am reluctant to put salvaged wood through my planer or thicknesser because of hidden nasties. It depends on where the wood is coming from of course- old furniture is relatively safe, old fence posts less so.

I have the Evolution mini belt sander but the belts for that probably work out more expensive than replacing knives over time as they are 303mm long so you can't buy them from many places and choose the best deal

I've had sawn 2 by 2 etc as well as planed stuff like bed frames and whatnot, being able to make the rough stuff into lovely ready to use stock quickly would say jointer planer thicknesser to me but one of those AND a bandsaw would be cool (not about to happen though lol)

 

[marcros]

The belt will be cheaper than having a set of blades sharpened though. if there is any chance of hidden nails, staples etc, I would give it a going over with the sander first

 

[david123]

P/T for me, had one for years and it's done a lot of sterling work in its time. Wish you luck with whatever you get. I love new toys

 

[Benchwayze]

I buy 'proper' timber from reliable merchants, (There's one in Atherstone, Warwickshire). For run of the mill stuff, I sort through the offerings at my local sawmill/DIY outlet, who do store their stuff on end. However, there's often some nice cedar or Douglas fir, or clear redwood in the mix. You just have to look for it!

As for which tool next, PAR timber is more expensive, but then there's less work in milling, with all the dust, noise and energy usage to go with it. I have a planer thicknesser (A good one), but for the amount I use it these days, I could well be shot of it, and buy prepared timber from my reliable supplier. Maybe I'll do that! So, had I need for a bandsaw, that's the one I'd go for.

 

[zodiac]

I buy 'proper' timber from reliable merchants, (There's one in Atherstone, Warwickshire). For run of the mill stuff, I sort through the offerings at my local sawmill/DIY outlet, who do store their stuff on end. However, there's often some nice cedar or Douglas fir, or clear redwood in the mix. You just have to look for it!

As for which tool next, PAR timber is more expensive, but then there's less work in milling, with all the dust, noise and energy usage to go with it. I have a planer thicknesser (A good one), but for the amount I use it these days, I could well be shot of it, and buy prepared timber from my reliable supplier. Maybe I'll do that! So, had I need for a bandsaw, that's the one I'd go for.

If you're going to get shot of it I'll have it ;-)

Apparently my xmas present is now sorted so I guess time will tell and its now out of my hands !

Thanks for all the replies and advice

 

[Benchwayze]

I buy 'proper' timber from reliable merchants, (There's one in Atherstone, Warwickshire). For run of the mill stuff, I sort through the offerings at my local sawmill/DIY outlet, who do store their stuff on end. However, there's often some nice cedar or Douglas fir, or clear redwood in the mix. You just have to look for it!

As for which tool next, PAR timber is more expensive, but then there's less work in milling, with all the dust, noise and energy usage to go with it. I have a planer thicknesser (A good one), but for the amount I use it these days, I could well be shot of it, and buy prepared timber from my reliable supplier. Maybe I'll do that! So, had I need for a bandsaw, that's the one I'd go for.

If you're going to get shot of it I'll have it ;-)

An equivalent 12" planer-thicknesser today is around three grand. Mine is 25 years old, still on its first set of three blades! (They have been sharpened in the past, of course!) I wonder sometimes why I keep it, but then I never used to mind correcting flatness in PAR timber I bought. As I get on a bit, it's a lot of work hand planing wide, long boards; but boy do I sleep at nights!)

My next luxury 'want' as opposed to need, is a Festool 75mm track saw. Just for its depth of cut! :tool:

John.