Which jaws for turning 10mm rectangles, unsupported by tail

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Tetsuaiga

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I'd like to turn some 10mm rectangles but want access to the end for tools, so can't install it as a spindle.

I have found a few possibilities.

Axminster spigot jaws

http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-spigot-jaws

or something like Record 9mm pin jaws

The spigot jaws have longer contact length but with the 4 small contact points i'm concerned they will dig in and mark the wood piece.


Would the pin jaws be a better option? I also need to buy a chuck.
Thanks
 
it depends on your lathe to some degree. I have a jet mini, which by its nature is limited in capacity.

I have this chuck, http://www.dm-tools.co.uk/product.php/s ... cyh9vlVhBc and the step jaws http://www.dm-tools.co.uk/product.php/s ... cyizflVhBc would do what you want. I have since bought a couple of different jaw sets, in fact I have them all except the pin jaws now. Nice little chuck, ideal for small lathes and small turning. If I had a big lathe, this chuck wouldnt really work well, as my only chuck, to the full capacity of the lathe. A larger chuck would make more sense there.
 
You could perhaps stick them to a sacrificial chucking point using CA or hot melt glue. Even double sided carpet tape. I have used each of these methods successfully.
 
Make yourself some custom hardwood jaws with internal flats/faces to suit your blanks.

file.php


The above not what I envisage but might trigger a solution for you.
 
To protect the wood from marks when held in pin jaws etc you could use plastic pipe around it. If depending on the size you could either just put a single slit down the length of pipe so the when the chuck tightens onto it it grips the wood tightly or cut the pipe into 2 lengthways. Version one might make it easier to align the wood in the chuck. I've done it a couple of times for small jobs and it worked ok. If you're making a lot then it might be better going down the custom chuck route
 
Thanks for the suggestions. It's strange they don't produce many square jaws, i've seen the pen drilling ones, maybe you could use 4 of those instead.

Using a softer material makes sense, i'm having a bit of trouble envisioning how the pipe would work. I imagine if you deform it inside the jaws wouldn't it break pretty easily.

I like the idea of wooden jaws but worry a little i'd end up with them not being perfectly centered.
 
marcros":2d7t4qzx said:
it depends on your lathe to some degree. I have a jet mini, which by its nature is limited in capacity.

I have this chuck, http://www.dm-tools.co.uk/product.php/s ... cyh9vlVhBc and the step jaws http://www.dm-tools.co.uk/product.php/s ... cyizflVhBc would do what you want. I have since bought a couple of different jaw sets, in fact I have them all except the pin jaws now. Nice little chuck, ideal for small lathes and small turning. If I had a big lathe, this chuck wouldnt really work well, as my only chuck, to the full capacity of the lathe. A larger chuck would make more sense there.

Thanks. I may well go for these ones. I have an old record lathe, can't remember the model it's the one mounted on two pipes, i think its probably either a step up from the very smallest or the smallest.
 
graduate_owner":31uxfjlw said:
Those stepped wooden jaws are neat

K
Just watch out for quality of ply laminate bond if you make any up, those were from supposedly quality ply but needed a substantial amount of thin CA after a few uses as the original bonds started to fail.
 
I bought the compact record chuck and pin jaws.

It's working fine for what I need. Though I find it's still often an improvement to centre the end opposite the chuck in the live centre (think it's called that). Not sure why it doesn't hold the workpiece perfectly, it could be that my squares aren't perfectly 90 degrees, though i'm sure they're very close.
 
Tetsuaiga":3hyyc4eb said:
I bought the compact record chuck and pin jaws.

It's working fine for what I need. Though I find it's still often an improvement to centre the end opposite the chuck in the live centre (think it's called that). Not sure why it doesn't hold the workpiece perfectly, it could be that my squares aren't perfectly 90 degrees, though i'm sure they're very close.
Wood is not an even density/compressive strength in all planes, it will crush in one direction more than another and will naturally skew in the jaws.
 
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