What would you call this, and how do I do it?

[bodgermatic]

I'm not sure what you'd call what I want to do. I'd like to remove the red section in the crude diagram below, using handtools only:

I should add that the section to be removed is ~ 1 cm deep, 60cm long and 10cm wide. So a fair amount of material to remove.

Cheers!

 

[Digit]

Saw, rebate plane and chisel?

Roy.

 

[nanscombe]

I'm not an expert but ...

If I were doing it, I would:

A) Mark / define the bottom edge with a marking knife (to avoid tearout).
B) Make multiple vertical saw cuts (I believe they are called relief cuts) , about 2cm or so apart (depending on the size of your chisel), in the waste area.
C) Using the marking knife line as a guide, remove each little block with a mallet and chisel.

Well, that's how I've seen something similar done.

As, I say, just a suggestion until someone comes up with something better.

 

[Digit]

I'd go with you on a, b and c, Nigel but would finish the base with a rebate plane, if available.

Roy.

 

[Harbo]

nanscombe - that's the way I was taught.

Rod

 

[nanscombe]

Something like this. The relief cuts are exagerated.

 

[matt]

Three pieces of wood. Two short bits with 4 degree angles glued to one long bit.

 

[lurker]

Three pieces of wood. Two short bits with 4 degree angles glued to one long bit.

:sign3:

 

[bodgermatic]

Thanks for the replies guys. I was worried that 'three bits of wood' might crop up - I thought of that as an easier way to do it, after I'd already started Oh well, I'll keep on bashing. It's made slightly more painful than it might be because these are workbench sleds, so the work is clamped to a workmate that is A) the wrong height, and B) not heavy enough. So I'm chasing it around the shed!

 

[bugbear]

Something like this. The relief cuts are exagerated.

Depending on preferences, need for precision, and available tools, you could remove SOME of the waste pieces (defined by the relief cuts in the picture) and use a router plane, referencing the upper surface of the non-removed waste, to make the removed areas perfectly level and accurate, before removing the remaining waste.

The areas tidied by the router plane then make a reference surface to which the remaining area can be worked to.

BugBear

 

[Racers]

Hi,

Just what is a cm? :wink:

I thought it was something taught to kids, because mm where just to small and numerous, its mm and meters in the real world :wink:

I would go with 3 bits of wood, or reduce the depth to 5mm (1/2 a cm) to save work.

Pete

 

[nanscombe]

Oh well, I'll keep on bashing. It's made slightly more painful than it might be because these are workbench sleds, so the work is clamped to a workmate that is A) the wrong height, and B) not heavy enough. So I'm chasing it around the shed!

I feel your pain as that's how I was working last year.

One thing I did do, to make life a bit easier was to clamp one end of a piece of wood to the Workmate and the other to something solid, In my case a concrete fence post, the bench wasn't going anywhere then.

 

[xy mosian]

So I'm chasing it around the shed!

The workmate that is!

Place a longish batten across the rails of the workmate and use a length of suitable studding to bolt it to the floor. I have a Rawbolt type fixing in the garage floor which takes an M6 thread, this keeps everything sturdy for me. Just replace the original bolt when removing the studding to keep the threaded hole clean.

xy

 

[AndyT]

You could saw out most of the waste with a turning saw (like a big coping saw). Think of it as the hand tool equivalent of a bandsaw.

It might help to drill a hole in each of the internal corners to give you room to turn the blade.

But having said that, depending on the wood, chisel and mallet can be quicker. Or even an axe (seriously!)