what to finish outside oak door with

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shim20

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ive got to make an oak door for someone, will be external a gets battered by all elements, linseed oil seems to make oak got blackish after about 6 mounths ive found, someone recomended holkam linseed oil wax, which is like a paste, what have other people used in the past? or do you have you used the holkam wax?
many thanks
ben
 
Personally I like the look of oak left unfinished.

It'll go a nice silver colour but it really means that you steer clear of steel/iron fasteners and eradicate sapwood that's not as durable.

Jon
 
My Oak front door was oiled initially with 5 or so coats of linseed oil and looked fantastic.... for a while. A short while.

It is now sporting several coats of Sadolin Extra durable and whilst it doesn't look as natural as the oil made it look it still looks good and I haven't touched it for 2 years. The Sadolin also stopped the expanding and sticking in the winter.

Regards, Jon
 
Danish oil works for my oak door. Nice and easy to refresh every couple of years or so.
 
shim20":1m04i395 said:
gets battered by all elements

If it gets all the rain and sun on it, then I'd go with Sadolin and re-treat it every year. Very easy to apply. I use Sadolin Classic on my back door which similarly gets all the weather on it.

If it's possible, a porch would be the best bet to keep the rain off it.

Cheers :wink:

Paul
 
Yep, I vote for Sadolin classic/extra as well, leaving it go silver is fine if you like that sort of thing, but as said before it will move about all over the place, and it's a myth that oak lasts forever without a half decent finish
 
I also have two oak doors to make soon, has anyone had any experience of Osmo UV Protection Oil 420 - I saw it recommended somewhere and looks promising?
 
thanks all for the advice, i might try the Danish oil to keep the natural look, the sadolin is probably very good but the customer would like the natural look the sadolin takes that away, they did mention about a pouch but wanted to do the door first then think about it,
thanks
again
ben
 
shim20":3e3y4dyg said:
thanks all for the advice, i might try the Danish oil to keep the natural look, the sadolin is probably very good but the customer would like the natural look the sadolin takes that away, they did mention about a pouch but wanted to do the door first then think about it,
thanks
again
ben

Clear Sadolin doesn't take away the look of oak IMO. Danish Oil does.
 
hi shim20
many many years ago when i lived in hastings , it gets battered by the sea air round that way, an old painter decorater told me that the only stuff to put on oak was linseed oil mainly because it was easy to apply and repair and stood up to the weather. it's your choice though and there are many finishes out there to use
colin allen
 
RogerS":3fvfe6ag said:
shim20":3fvfe6ag said:
thanks all for the advice, i might try the Danish oil to keep the natural look, the sadolin is probably very good but the customer would like the natural look the sadolin takes that away, they did mention about a pouch but wanted to do the door first then think about it,
thanks
again
ben

Clear Sadolin doesn't take away the look of oak IMO. Danish Oil does.

ahh didnt realise you could get a clear one thanks
 
For painted finishes I'm a big fan of Sadolin Superdec - lasts really well and a good range of colours.

For clear finish, Danish oil is good.

But if you want the colour of the oak to remain, then you need U/V protection. Osmo, while expensive, is the best I've come across so far. Seems to be industry standard now, too.

Jonny.
 
use osmo uv protection oil extra (code 420) it will outlast danish oil and wont darken the oak to much.
 
I'd go with the no finish poster. You should think about the design though so water isn't getting trapped on ledges and collecting in beads etc.

If its for someone else I guarantee they aren’t going to sand a re-oil every year!
 
I am interested to read (only just found this forum) Cegidfa's experience of Sadolin Superdec on his new workshop build. I have to say that it is one impressive workshop! I think I could fit mine in there at least 10 times!

However, I have volunteered myself to repair/refurbish local fingerposts within our AONB (Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty). They have a bit of funds available for such as this. A group from another village are quoted as using Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 for the primer/sealer followed by Sadolin Superdec Woodshield. I've always been a fan of Sadolin products, pricey though they are, so I was surprised to see that he thought that S/S Woodshield was er, 'rubbish' I think was his tech term.

The Dorset AONB recommend that seasoned oak stock is used which isn't a problem but since fingerposts are standing out in all weathers for all to see, I don't want to have to repaint every year. Has anyone got some recommendations, please?
 

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