What might I need to know to turn wooden knobs?

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matt

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Miles away - totally impractical...
So................

Having committed to buying my first lathe, my main intention is to turn some wooden knobs for cabinets etc (i.e. turning is going to be a means to an end rather than my main workshop pursuit).

I am completely clueless, therefore, would be grateful for some pointers to get me started. For example...

What should I look for in chisels (bearing in mind what I plan to turn and not wanting to spend a fortune at this stage)?

What do I need to look out for re H&S with these things?

Any links to useful WWW info? In particular, hints & tips for repeating patterns (I need to make more than one of the same knob).

First outing is likely to be some knobs made from Walnut - anything I should know?

Cheers!
 
As a complete novice, your best bet is to find your local woodturning club and go along to some meetings - here you will find demonstrations of woodturning and also other turners you can speak to for advice on tools, sharpening systems, lathe safety etc etc. You may also find someone who can give you some "hands-on" training.

Some books & DVDs may also be helpful - I personally found Richard Raffan's books and DVDs to be very useful.

Regarding tools required for turning knobs, the first thing to consider is how you'll hold them on the lathe - and you'll need to be able to hold the wood blank by one end only (in order to finish the top of the knob), so you will need some kind of chuck & a screw chuck would probably be the simplest option.

For chisels, gouges etc - a skilled and experienced turner might be able to do everything required to make knobs using just a skew chisel, but for a novice, I'd suggest a roughing gouge, a 3/8" spindle gouge, a skew chisel & a parting tool. So far as brands are concerned, any of the following brands are quality tools : Ashley Iles, Robert Sorby, Crown, Hamlet, Henry Taylor & Record Power.

You'll also need a means of sharpening your tools (most turning tools are not supplied ready sharpened) - the minimum required is a bench grinder, and for sharpening the spindle gouge you may find you need some kind of jig. I can't over-emphasise the importance of using correctly sharpened tools for woodturning - using blunt tools gives a terrible finish, makes the turning difficult and is really dis-heartening when you are learning.

Walnut is a very easy wood to turn, but while you are practing I'd recommend something cheaper like sycamore which is also an easy wood to turn.

I'm sure you'll get lots more advice from the many turners on this forum who are far more experienced than me.

tekno.mage
 
Something thats always a good idea, is to start out with the "BIBLE", Matt ...

Keith Rowley's book.

Available all over the place, including e-bay sometimes too ...
its the place most seem to start, and its very good 'grounding' in the 'mechanics' of what's required.
It'll tell you everything you need to know to get started... and then some.

This is the beast you're after : -->
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Woodturning-Fou ... 287&sr=8-2

HTH :wink: 8)
 
As nick says it may be useful if we knew where you were.
As far as the knobs are concerned IMO the best to tackle this is between centres,
spindle work where it be a series of beads, coves, fillets and a hollow or two, (maybe).
If you are doing several at the same time you will ensure they are the same size
and it only then requires sawing off each one then finishing off the lathe.(If you see what I mean) :lol:

John. B
 
Thanks for all the useful feedback and suggestions. I want to keep costs to a minimum to start off with and I don't think the lathe comes with a chuck. So, I'm guessing I'll go with the between centres option for the knobs and then cut each one.

The tool sharpening is a potential issue as I do not have a bench grinder at the moment (but keep thinking I ought to get one as I never have time to sharpen any of my chisels and planes with the waterstones I currently own). No money for the top end sharpening systems but I may be able to pick up a simple slow-running wetstone grinder - like this one.

Once I have the lathe I I'll have a play and see whether I'm a natural (probably not...) I then may go out to tender for an apprenticeship :D

In the meantime... Axminster seem to do a cheap set of 3 chisels which may just be enough for me to sample the turning thing?

(Typing quickly in case my wife spots me talking about spending money on grinders and chisels... ) :D
 
Matt you could get a jacobs chuck which will allow you to turn the knobs. I wouldn't go for that set of chisels. It seems they are intended for miniature work. There's no need to get small tools for small work. Get full size ones and you'll get more life out of them. Axminster's Perform range are perfectly adequate for learning.

PS: You're more than welcome to come over one weekend and I'll show you the basics.
 
I hadn't taken in the Perform chisels. I see your point about avoiding small chisels for small jobs etc. I'll give some thought to the Performs.

Thanks for the offer of some tuition - I may take you up on that if the offer still stands after I've had an initial play.

(In the meantime... I've been offered...)
 
I wouldn't call it tuition as such Matt, I'm on the learning slope meself. But your more than welcome to come over and see what it's all about.
 
DaveL":197d06jr said:
matt":197d06jr said:
In the meantime... Axminster seem to do a cheap set of 3 chisels which may just be enough for me to sample the turning thing?
If they really are TCT then you cannot grind them on a normal stone, another reason for not buying them.

yep HSS is definitely the way to go . - if all you want to turn is knobs you can get away with just a spingle gouge, roughing gouge and parting tool - though a beading tool is also handy. Some people will tell you to use a skew , but while this is a versatile tool it isnt the easiest for beginers ( ive been turning 9 years and i rarely use mine)

and yes you can turn a "column" of them between centres , and then either part them off one at a time, or cut the column up with a thin saw before using sand paper to remove the parting marks.

alternately if your lathe comes with a face plate you could make a "jam chuck" (ie a piece of wood screwed to the face plate with an opening into which the knobs jam) to hold them for finishing.

ginder wise if funds are tight you can get away with a cheap chiwanese offering from one of the DIY sheds - particularly as you arent planning on doing bowls and forms etc.

I dont know where you are in the country but you would also be welcome here for a play- once ive got the'shop sorted out ( Ive just bought a new lathe and all is chaos at the mo)
 
I was wondering whether I might get away with buying a smaller selection of chisels, particularly as I've no plans to turn bowls.

Hmmm...

As mentioned in another thread - I'm eyeing up the Perform grinder which includes a wetstone for £29 (reduced from £41). I just have not come across anyone who's got one and can explain why it's so cheap.
 
matt":33vjklff said:
I was wondering whether I might get away with buying a smaller selection of chisels, particularly as I've no plans to turn bowls.

Hmmm...

As mentioned in another thread - I'm eyeing up the Perform grinder which includes a wetstone for £29 (reduced from £41). I just have not come across anyone who's got one and can explain why it's so cheap.

I bought the Perform after pricing a replacement white wheel for my standard grinder. It was going to cost £20 for a wheel or £29 for a new grinder with a white wheel fitted and a whetstone :D
The Perform does everything I need and I'm very happy with it.

I used ebay for tools, buy the individual tools the experienced members recommend and you won't go far wrong.
 
So I have, currently in my Axminster basket:
  • Perform Spindle Gouge - 3/8"
    Perform Roughing Gouge - 3/4"
    Perform Diamond Parting Tool - 1/4"
for £28.20
and:
  • Perform CCWSG Wetstone Grinder - 240V
for £29.95

I'm just wrestling with whether to get the Perform Oval Skew - 1" too?
for a further £9.80 (free delivery on this order)...
-----------------------------------------------------------
TOTAL PRICE: £67.95

That would mean I'm NOT getting the:
  • Perform Round Nose Scraper - 3/4"
    Perform Bowl Gouge - 3/8"
Which are both included in the set at £60.
-----------------------------------------------------------
TOTAL PRICE (inc the grinder): £89.95

Hmmmmmmmm...
 
The skew is hard to learn but probably the best tool available for spindle work. If you manage to master it, your work will be quicker, more efficient and easier.

I haven't mastered it :( I can plane with it quite well but hopeless at turning beads with it.
 
Hi Matt,

I personally don't really like the Oval Skews much. They are considered by some to be easier to use however, from my teaching experience, they are considerably harder to sharpen and if you can't sharpen a tool it is vertually useless!!!!

My preference is for either the Ashley Iles 3/4" standard Skew (which has slightly radiused edges for ease of use) or 3/8" Beading and Parting tool which does the job of both a Skew and a parting tool (It's one of my favourites!!!)

HTH

Richard
 
Thanks for the feedback. I've dropped the skew from this order - it's something I can come back to in the future by the sound of things, and be more selective about my choice.

Right... that's me set for the time being.
 
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