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jammie*dodger

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My blanks keep splitting when I turn them. Am I cutting too quickly or deeply or could it be something else? I'm getting a bit fed up with it to be honest. Any ideas?

Cheers, Rob.
 
Are you talking face work or spindle? IME spindle blanks can have hidden faultsthat will split if you put them between centres and tighten up too much. If you can get any pics it'll help us to see what is happenning.

pete
 
Spindle work is all fine - face work seems to work out about 1/2 the time. The last 3 have all split. 1 was wet the other 2 were dry.

I suspect i'm just being too aggresive with the cuts.

Thanks for the help. Rob.
 
Rob,

Are they splitting whilst actually on the lathe, or after being turned and left to dry?

May help if you describe the condition and type of the wood you are using.

I had a bowl split on me a few weeks ago, but that was due to using the wrong tool and it spiralled to the far side of the bowl and the tool and half a bowl flew across the workshop...I found the tool but have not yet found the bowl despite looking! That was going to be the final cut before sanding :-(

Dave
 
Rob we really need pictures of your problem pieces and a better description of your method of holding, tools used and at what point you are having failures.

Where are you sourcing the blanks?
 
Are you finishing the items the same day or leaving them for a while on the lathe and going back to finish :? :?:
Timber types are needed as some are more prone to splitting than others.
 
One was spalted beech. The split appeared over night so I guess it was just due to it drying out - I'm going to try filling the crack with epoxy as suggested in another thread.

the other two were dry blanks - both were a hardwood blank that had been drying for years. I binned one but the other just happened. Both had been cut to shape on the bandsaw from Squares.

I'll try and get a picture of it and the beech one up tomorrow so I can get opinions on what caused it.

Thanks once again, Rob.
 
jammie*dodger":2edy1cnv said:
One was spalted beech. The split appeared over night so I guess it was just due to it drying out - I'm going to try filling the crack with epoxy as suggested in another thread.


Thanks once again, Rob.

Rob, I turned a spalted beech in December (for a nutcracker wheel) and that had a number of splits in it. I filled them with rocket thin superglue and the rocket powder (i think from axminster). The powder is superfine and the glue sets it very quickly. The splits have not opened since then.
 
Ok here is the spalted (I think it's beech)
3639087597_1fba6e0fab.jpg

and
3639086759_7bf021bb68.jpg



and the dry blank (no idea what this one is)
3639896756_21426eba8c.jpg

and
3639087057_d14a723937.jpg
 
the spalted one: the split radiates out from the pith, if you can avoid having the pith in your wood you will have a much higher chance of it not splitting dry or wet wood. judgeing by the outside of the bowl the spalting looks like it had gone too far anyway.

the other one looks like a teak/mahogany type and looks as if it has fine splits in it already and by shaping the bowl you've just weakend it enough to split all the way through.
 
Yes the Beech looks too far gone and as George says the split is coming from the pith and the second split looks as though it as been in the wood for some time.
When you see a split try putting some thin ca in it and keep checking on it as you go down it,applying more glue as you do,and then make a feature of it.
Don't lose heart.It happens to most if not all of us :roll:
 
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