Western Red Cedar joints

[grahame]

I'm making a greenhouse.
The current plan is for dowelled joints initially fixed with a screw
But which glue is best?
Would like waterproof/easy clean up/long open time
Today it was 6C but time is not an issue if I have to wait longer for the glue to cure or a warmer spell before March!
All my web reading has left me more confused.
Any been there/done that advice would be welcome

 

[ColytonJohn]

I'm sure others will have their own preferences but...

I built an enclosed porch (think small conservatory) including a large front door from cedar and used polyurethane adhesive. Ten years later and it's still standing (as is some garden furniture I made around the same time) so I'd be happy to use it again. True it's not a very long open time but, IIRC, the brand I used was available with either 5 mins or 30 mins. Another choice could be construction adhesive either gap filling or not chosen on the quality of one's workmanship

Cheers,
John

 

[RobinBHM]

Maybe PU from tgp

This comes in rapid and standard. Standard has an open time of over an hour.

Clean up is best done after glue has partly set and scrape off with a chisel. It is a foaming glue so it is best to apply carefully to control squeeze out. Its a trade off really, PU is very waterproof but the foaming action makes clean up difficult.

Aliphatic glue like titebond might be easier to clean up, not sure how it compares in waterproof terms.

Cascamite is very waterproof and easy to clean up, but is is a very hard glue line. I wouldnt choose it for cedar.

 

[Chunky Monkey]

I've also just commenced a large greenhouse build, and you're right an internet search provides contrasting results, some even suggesting it's necessary to wipe the surfaces with acetone prior to gluing.

In the end, I went with Titiebond 3; it's fully waterproof when dry. My test joints gave a good bond, as have all subsequent joints, but obviously I can't comment on the longevity 10 years down the line.

Jon

 

[marcros]

i would go with PU, if it needs building between now and march. A D4 PVA would do just as well, but needs a greater working temperature- i forget what but I have a feeling it is 15 degrees plus. Do check the minimum temp for PU, but I think it is nearer 5 degrees.

 

[ED65]

Everbuild Wood1

 

[grahame]

Thanks for the advice so far.
Favourite seems to be PU (but ChunkyMonkey's using TB3 for his greenhouse build) :?
Not much difference in min. working temp 5C vs 8C
I guess I'll have to try/test both.
Now what about the screws? - I know about staining but if they're hidden will it matter?
And any recommendations for wall louvres easy to incorporate in timber frames?