Wardrobe Design Quandary

[stewart]

Hi all
This is always the longest stage for me - coming up with a design! So any pointers would be appreciated.
I'm going to make a wardrobe in our bedroom - it'll be about 6 feet wide and reach from the floor to the ceiling.
What I can't decide is whether to make it from panels (mdf, ply, can't decide!) or whether to make up a frame from pine - if I go for the frame is 2 by 2 strong enough?
Here's a rough sketch of what I have in mind for the finished look:

...must get to grips with sketchup!

The wardrobe doesn't have to be free standing - so if I go the frame route the walls can be the back and one side as it is going to fit in a corner.

Any one got any thoughts?

Many thanks
Stewart

 

[engineer one]

i still think wardrobes ought to have backs to stop stuff getting lost down
the back and sides. from your thoughts, i would have thought that a
bunch of boxes stacked on each other would be the way to go.

so four lower boxes with the drawers, then four actual wardrobes,
then the four top boxes.

whether you make these in mdf or ply,or mdc, the smaller the unit
the easier it is to manipulate, and for the sole builder easier to move and
place.

personally i would make the sides, top and bottom from 18 mm mdf, and a 9 mm back, then you can paint or colour. or you could use 18mm mdc,
but still with the thicker back.

i know most "pro" wardrobes that are built in tend not to be lined,
it is easier with faced boxes i think. you can make them offsite, and
then join together on site,
hope this helps

paul :wink:

 

[MikeW]

Hi Stewart,

Seeing how my preference is early 20th century Modern--and at that what we here tend to call Scandanavian Modern--I like the piece.

For me, it would depend on my budget. I would probably build the carcass in 3 layers. The bottom being the 3 drawer rows, followed by the middle being the taller door section, and the top layer being the smaller upper doors.

The sections would screw together, and I would anchor to the wall as well.

Most likely I would use MDF for the carcass. I would also likely make the doors of cross-banded construction and veneer the doors, inside and out. I would also veneer the carcass. The outter with the veneer used for doors, but the inner of a light wood, probably Maple.

And it would be freestanding...

Take care, Mike

 

[Steve Maskery]

Hi Stewart
Lots of MDF boxes. Consider some long hanging - you have lots of space for shirts and jackets, but where are you going to hang your ball-gowns? It will look better with a plinth and crown, too.

I have a brief article on making this sort of stuff quickly and cheaply in this month's GWW, although it's about to be replaced with the next issue, I think, so hurry, hurry, hurry! And you'l definitely want next month's...

 

[stewart]

Thanks for all the replies - as always, members of the forum are really generous with their advice and interest.
Steve, my ball gowns will fit in an existing full length cupboard - just so you know... :wink:
I can how much easier it will be to make it out of mdf boxes and stack them up but I'm trying to do it for as little outlay as possible, hence my quandary about making a sort of skeletal frame rather than buy several sheets of mdf...
still, all of your comments have been very helpful - I'll have to cost it out properly!
Cheers
stewart

 

[JPEC]

If you make a frame and 'clad' it with boards you will lose a lot of space in the corners where the frame is and shelf supports etc. especially if you use 2x2. Also you are paying for a frame to hold up something that will hold itself up! IMHO
I agree with the other comments, make it in sections, MDF or MFC but dont forget if you are making it in a workshop MDF is bl**dy heavy to carry up stairs :x

Cheers

Julian

 

[engineer one]

stewart, i think you will find that the cost benefit equation is in the favour
of mdf.

1/ real wood, even 2x2 is more expensive than you think, and the
wastage in this kind of construction is quite high.

2/ framing means you have less internal space, and you still have
to cover it in something to both keep it rigid, and also to contain things.

3/ case goods are the real strength of mdf/mdc, that is what they are
really designed for, and by building in units you exploit the
strengths of the products.

4/ although mdf is heavy, you can accurately make the units elsewhere,
and like jason b re-assemble them on site secure in the knowledge they
fit. also almost all walls are not square, so unless you face frame, and
scribe in, you tend to have to fudge at each side where the fit the wall.

5/ all your drawer units can be made in bulk with standard sizes, not so easy with frame and panel no matter how careful you are.

6/ passing thought have you thought of making drawers which fit behind doors, or glass panels, but that are like the old fashioned menswear
shops units where the front of the drawer is lower so you can see what is
there.

anyway good luck
paul :wink:

 

[stewart]

Thanks for the breakdown of reasons why mdf is best, Paul. Your advice is the same as everyone elses'!

I've done some costing and a more detailed plan - real wood comes out at £168! MDF, and I think I'll need 5 sheets for the carcase comes to about £75 and using lengths of stud wall CLS (?) is a little over £38. I have to admit to being drawn to using the stud walling as everything I've made for the house so far has been mdf and I'm fed up with it. I can thickness the studding down to 25mm as I think 50mm is overkill.

My plan is to make four upright frames for the sides and middle of the wardrobe and 8 horizontal frames to connect them together. The whole structure can be screwed to the wall to give it rigidity - most of these screws can easily be hidden from view. It doesn't need any filling in of panels as the exposed end will have a bookcase on the side. The front will then be covered by the doors and drawer fronts.

I have thought about drawers behind doors but I'm assured by my wife that she will not be opening doors to get to drawers behind them!

I realise I am risking rather a lot of 'I told you so's...' so before I go ahead and blow £38 on stud walling stuff is there something I should know about it?

Once again, thanks for your advice and patience in advance

Stewart

 

[jasonB]

You can but CLS that comes in about 38x32 finished size which will save having to rip it down and thickness it.

CLS is quite knotty, you could find that if you rip it in half you will have a knot the full width of the timber that will snap easily, if you are going the softwood route then consider some decent 38x38 PAR which will come in about 32mm square.

Have you priced it up for MFC, just white Conti Board will do but 18mm is better. If I'm making wardrobes to a budget then I tend to use the 15mm Conti for the uprights and 18mm for the horizontals as it gives the screws a bit more to bite into. This onewas done that way.

I would make it as two large boxes, basically dividing the unit in two.

Jason

 

[stewart]

Thanks for the info, Jason.
I had a closer look at the CLS yesterday when I made a picture frame from some of it - I see what you mean about the knots, though I got away with what I was doing.
I had a look at MFC - Travis Perkins wanted £15 for an 8 x 2 sheet, and as I'd need 10 of them it would be twice the price of the MDF - unless you know a cheaper source?
Anyway, I've still got time to mull it over before I part with any cash.
Cheers
Stewart

 

[jasonB]

I can get a much better quality MFC 8x4x18mm thick for £15.65 a sheet, you may have to pay a little more (£50-249 rate)if its a small order and wait a day or three if the lorry is not coming your way but give Richard Russel a try.

You are obviously also comparing the cost of conti ti cheap shed grade MDF, you will find a decent make like Caber or Medite gives a better finish especially to any cut or moulded edges, If you can pay a couple of pounds more a sheet then MR (moisture resistant) MDF will give an even better finish.

I think B&Q charge about £12 for a 24x96" Conti Board.

Jason

 

[Scrit]

I've done some costing and a more detailed plan - real wood comes out at £168! MDF, and I think I'll need 5 sheets for the carcase comes to about £75 and using lengths of stud wall CLS (?) is a little over £38.

Yes, but a professional would also take into account the time to machine the piece, finishing time (which is why MFC is so attractive) and don't forget the problems of getting the components up and down stairs! That makes MFC a first choice for me on jobs lioke these.

I'd second Jason's comments about the quality of MFC - the larger makers like Egger and Kronospan produce infinitely better quality materials than Conriplas.

Scrit

 

[stewart]

Jason, Scrit
Many thanks for your extra info - as the job is for me the time machining timber won't add to my costs, and i can try to rope my son into helping instead of finding him sprawled in front of the telly for the summer holidays!
I'm interested in your comments about the better grades of MFC as my daughter also needs a wardrobe. I'll have to investigate further.
Cheers
Stewart

 

[engineer one]

stewart i wonder if you are missing one point that everybody is trying to make.

will you get unhappy very quickly because what you have built is not as good looking as you could make it?

My experience is that one tends not to finish properly things which are
not quite right in either appearance, or finish. but you only find this out when you have put it up.

i think you will soon regret not finishing the inside properly, because you will constantly think if only.

i realise that budgets are important, but so is the look of the job,
not least because you do in fact spend a fair amount of time in
your bedroom, and trust me you will notice.

my 2p

paul :wink:

 

[stewart]

Hi Paul
thanks for your 2p's worth
i take your point about wondering if only..., the thing is i hate unpainted mdf and i'm part way through fitting out a study/library with the stuff and can't bear painting more of the stuff to make it look nice. I do intend to make the inside of the wardrobe attractive - i've got a collection of pine floorboards to form the bottom of the hanging space and the top cupboards, also some old library shelving (parana pine) i think for the drawers.
At the moment i intend to make painted doors as I haven't got any nice wood to use there yet (in future, etc.......) and they will have some mdf in them!
Anyway, I'm sure the learning curve will be steep - and I'll post pictures whatever i use and whatever it looks like! And if I keep it under £200 i'll be really happy! :lol:
Thanks again for all the input
Cheers
Stewart