wadkin RS lathe restoration

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

wallace

Established Member
Joined
13 Feb 2011
Messages
2,130
Reaction score
250
Location
county durham
Time to restore a big boy lathe. This is the one Berncarpenter had for sale, and I couldn't resist. He made a huge effort to make sure it was well and truly secured to the pallet by bolts, screws, staples and rope. I am very thankfull because pallet couriers seem to getting worse. Everything arrived safe and I spent a good hour freeing everything from the pallet :D

54c9115f2c1b5.jpg


54c9119d081cc.jpg


54c9117472361.jpg


54d398f9789a5.jpg


54d3992752fc6.jpg


Then I started to break the machine down to its components, I have a good selection of pullers from car boots or these cheap hong kong ones. Really a must when messing with old iron.

54d39686b19fc.jpg


When I took the chuck off I was amazed at the quality of the threads, either the chuck has not been taken off much in the last 80 years or it has had a new shaft at some point.

54d398849045c.jpg


It all came apart pretty easy

54d39958cad44.jpg


54d3997fe1259.jpg


The motors quite a lump for 1.5hp

54d399966a4f1.jpg


54d399aab6e68.jpg
 
Another Phoenix rising from the ashes =D>
Love these threads, keep it up mate.
 
Hi Mark
Really pleased you bought the RS and its getting the makeover it deserves :D I will be following this thread closely and hope it all goes to plan .

Cheers Bern :D
 
I started cleaning some bits up



The bearings look a bit dodgy, the balls aren't very shiny



I put the pulley back on the spindle and stuck it on the lathe



 
Great - like many others, I really enjoy watching these magnificent machines being brought back to life with your excellent restoration work.
 
I did a little work on the hinged bit that has the motor on, I am struggling to get the hinge pin out of the casting. I have tried penetrating stuff, heat and stilsons with a 4' pole. Any ideas any one?

 
I too like watching these threads! -perhaps enough to give my DR a go before I get too used to using it as it is!

Regarding the hinge pin, I'm assuming you would have tried this if possible, but can you get to the underside of it to tap away at it whilst trying to turn it?
Failing that, you could try fully submerging the part in penetrating oil for a while and re trying later...

-Just as a thought, the screw head showing isn't some sort of locking pin is it, preventing the hinge from both turning and removing?!

Harry
 
Can't help I'm afraid but it's good to see you back with another restoration, Mark. Like everyone else, I thoroughly enjoy them.

Jim
 
Thanks Jim, I managed to get the hinge pin out. I think the fit is almost an interference fit. I was using plusgas which is normally great for unjamming stuff. I left it soaking for a day more and then heated the casting up and gave the pin a bash. Once it had moved a bit then I new it was coming. I had to knock it alittle one way add more lube then the other.
I started cleaning some of the bolts up, not surprising they were a bit pitted. This lathe was the 15th out of the factory and dates to about 1936.





To do the collar I put on a turned piece of wood and bring up the tailstock. I had to use a flapper disc in the grinder to get the pits out and then through the grits to 600 before polishing





These are the bolts for the motor and were pretty pitted. I used my disc sander to clean the bolts



I then finish them off by hand on fine grit glued to mirror



The speed adjuster handle was broken, it must be a weak spot because I've seen loads with the same damage.



I plan on drilling holes on both pieces and inserting some small rod, then V out the edge and welding.
 
Hi Mark
Fantastic work so far those bolts came up great. Interesting to know it was made in 1936 , what colour would it have been when it left the factory? Are you planning to give it an original paint job?


Cheers Bern :D
 
Thanks Bern, when I removed the machine tag it showed its original colour. I will be doing it like all my others, the grey/blue. I took an original piece to a motor factors and they colour chipped. I got 5 litres but I'm nearly out after doing quite a few machines.
I had a go at welding the broken speed changer. I made it nice and hot then used my mig. Afterwards it went into the oven at gas mark 6.
This is part of the speed changer, the flat belt goes through the bars and when moved drags the belt to a different ratio





The tail stock has a few differences to my other RS tailstock





This grub locates into a slot in quill?



It all came to bits really easy

 
well I was so impressed with you work on the first wadkin lathe and the links you sent I have joined.
all best andrew
 
Welcome Andrew theres some clever people around here with the woodwork stuff. I'm hopeless so spend more time bringing machines back from the dead then making stuff.
 
One piece of advice I must pass on if your welding. Don't just use welding goggles like I did and then have a sunburnt brow and cheeks (homer) . Next one use the full automatic face shield your wife bought you a year ago which is still in its box on the shelf (hammer).
I've been prepping some castings ready for paint, there is a lot of original black filler which I have left and filled any voids with car bodge.
I have sanded a locking handle with a powerfile and then finished of by hand, this is down to 400 I went down to 800 and then buffed



The handwheel is cast and from experience they take a lot of work to look good. The ali ones are really easy. I put in on the lathe and use a flapper disc on a grinder before going through the grits to 800.
It took about 2hrs







 
To stop the bits that are not on show from rusting I thought I would try black oxide solution. Which is just an acid which causes black rust.

 
Back
Top