Wadkin BGS12 restoration

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Matt@Nearfield

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Evening ladies and Gentlemen, hoping someone can help.

So I'm currently knee deep in jenolite, wd40 and blue roll restoring an old Wadkin BGS I've had in storage for a few years and hoping someone can tell me how to undo these pesky KIP handles. They hold the sliding table to the running gear.
20230219_153249.jpg

I've taken out the flat head inside, and tried a gentle persuasuion with the ubiquitous blunt chisel but it doesn't feel right. Any ideas?

Kindest,

Matt.
 
They just twist, probably need plenty of penetration oil (diesel is excellent)
Setting up the sliding table when you’ve fully broken it down is tricky, just be aware, yoi need some good measuring tools
 
They just twist, probably need plenty of penetration oil (diesel is excellent)
Setting up the sliding table when you’ve fully broken it down is tricky, just be aware, yoi need some good measuring tools
Ah, thanks chap. Of all the chaos I was hoping for a reply you were right up at the top. I'll get the grips on them.

May I take the opportunity to thanks you for all the help you have unknowingly given me over the years with your marvelous threads.

Out of interest would you care to see how we have rebuilt and improved (imo) the spindle arrangement?
 
Definitely would love to see what you have done to the spindle.

I would as one of the first jobs check the two bars the sliding table runs on. They are hardened silver steel, but can have a wear spot that causes a bump in the table where the wheels sit on it when the table is locked. it’s an imperial silver steel just heat treated if yoi need to get some made.
 
Wow, that truly is inspiring! I can assure you mine will look nothing that that! I like to think of mine as more of a Wabi Sabi Wadkin... if that means anything to you.

I've had the saw for a few years now, just saw it, bought it, and stuck it in storage till I got round to sorting it out. I've had many many saws, including Felders, Altendorfs and even a 12ft Martin over the years so about the only thing I was really concerned about was the hardened rails, these are fine (I think). I set up a few new sliding carriage unts on the above saws so hoping, hoping, this one shouldn't be too bad. Although in those instances I had the main table to reference off (back to front I know). But as we,ve removed both tables I'm in a bit of a quandry where to start.. a future me problem though.
We've already machined a couple of new simplex adjusters as they like to call them, as someone seemed to have tried to adjust the tables without loosening the bolts and mangled them.

I'll scan the cad for the spindle assembly shortly.

M.
 
I originally wanted to make a 30mm sleeve (@40mm long) to fit over the existing arbour to allow for the more common 30mm blades and dado stacks we find these days (cheaper than re-tooling my collection). But when we tried to strip the unit down one of the bearings was seized on (still worked fine). 6t on te press wasn't getting it off so we cut it off. looking at the silly money extended land untis from Advanced we decided just to start again. decided to go with angular contact bearings as feel they might be more appropriate This isn't my area of expertease but my buddy's) and then had to machine the spacer and made a new locking ring etc etc. Big Thanks to the legend Dave Mumby for all the work on this.. I mainly tightened the vice and made funny noises..
 
Now that’s a really innovative and clever upgrade to the spindle. I love the angular contacts with oil seals, that should make concentrate superb.
 
Glad you approve chap. I know you do restorations- I have one good original bearings and the locking nut left 0ver I'm never going to use. Any use to you?
 
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