Using a Router Table

[ajayre]

I have a template in the shape of a ring attached to the bottom of my stock. In my router table I have a pattern bit.

I've cut the outside of the ring without any problems, pushing the stock against the bit and feeding it in anticlockwise.

Now I need to cut the inside. The attached picture shows the setup. I've tried this briefly but I can feel that the bit wants to grab the wood and fling it. I am pulling the stock towards me and feeding it clockwise.

How can I achieve this cut safely and without risking the bit grabbing?

Thanks! Andy

 

[custard]

A very similar question is explored here,

is-white-ash-a-nightmare-to-work-with-t99002.html

 

[MattRoberts]

Hi, when you route the outside of a workpiece, you want to push the piece against the direction of rotation. When you route the inside of a piece, you actually need to push the piece in the opposite direction to what you did for the outside.

Richard Morley did a good explanation video here :

https://youtu.be/ZlNoKMmjxhg

 

[ED65]

I think he's is doing that Matt, anticlockwise for the outside and clockwise for the inside.

 

[sunnybob]

That pic shows the wood between the cutter and the fence.

 

[ajayre]

Thanks for the replies! Is it a mistake to have the fence there? Should I just remove it?

Andy

 

[Woody2Shoes]

Hi - whatever you do - please put some kind of cover/guard over the bit to protect yourself from accidentally getting part of yourself routed if something does move in unexpected ways - DAMHIKT!!!

e.g. this kind of thing (you could make something similar from a small piece of acrylic/polycarbonate):

http://toolguyd.com/blog/wp-content/upl ... nd-Pin.jpg

Cheers, W2S

 

[sunnybob]

The wood should not be squeezed between the cutter and the fence. You are turning a circle, so the second you move the wood centre away from the router centre, you are jamming the wood into the fence (or vice versa) Thats why the wood is being snatched.
You have a bottom bearing cutter, so the material should pressed against the cutter only.
Like said above, you need the cutter to be turning into the wood, so an internal cut should be going the other way round to an external cut.

This a cover that I made for my table. Still gives full access but stops you accidentally pushing your hand down onto the cutter.

 

[ajayre]

Thanks - good idea for the protection. I was a bit nervous about the exposed bit already.

One other aspect - I have about 2-3mm to remove, so I am removing it in shallow passes, but the thread referenced by Custard mentions keeping the template pressed against the bearing at all times. What is the right approach?

Thanks! Andy

 

[sunnybob]

Difficult to answer that, depends on hardness of wood.
I have routed 12 mm ply from a template, and the 1/2" cutter was all the way into the ply. No problems. I would not recommend that on mdf or hardwoods though.

The safest way is to use a jig saw or bandsaw and remove all but the thinnest of overlap.

Routers need practice to make big cuts on, but I would not consider 3 mm to be a dangerous cut except on the hardest of woods.
Another reason for making very thin cuts is to get a good finished edge because then you are applying a light steady pressure to the piece rather than ramming it through.

 

[woodbrains]

The wood should not be squeezed between the cutter and the fence. You are turning a circle, so the second you move the wood centre away from the router centre, you are jamming the wood into the fence (or vice versa) Thats why the wood is being snatched.
You have a bottom bearing cutter, so the material should pressed against the cutter only.
Like said above, you need the cutter to be turning into the wood, so an internal cut should be going the other way round to an external cut.

This a cover that I made for my table. Still gives full access but stops you accidentally pushing your hand down onto the cutter.

Hello,

The setup in the photo is not much good for internal shapes, though.

Mike.

 

[sunnybob]

nope. The plastic cover is held with a long pin through the back of the dust collection part of the fence.
Pull the pin (you can just see the top of it in the pic), pull out the cover, and away you go.

have to say, so far the only internal edges I've routered have been face edges of closed off bandsaw boxes, which are their own safety guards.