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Dan689

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I’ve recently restored a stanly No4 as per one of Paul Sellers videos. I’ve come to set the plane I’m only getting a shaving from the center of the cutting iron. Nothing on the left or right.

I’ve used my Veritas guide and the cutting iron is perfectly square with a 25 degree bevel to 1000 grit + stropped.

I’ve also flattened the sole and checked again and again..

It’s been suggested I tighten down the frog and chip breaker which I’ve tried but no change..

I can obviously wind out the cutting steel to get the sides to cut but then the center take a much heavier cut

Logically I want to say the iron is heavily rounded or the sole has a hollow but neither is the case..

Any help would be greatly appreciated
 

MikeG.

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Your wood isn't flat, perhaps.

It really is that, or your honing isn't as square as you think it is. There don't appear to be any other options. As it happens, you have sharpened your blade to perform in the way that has traditionally been thought to be correct.
 

--Tom--

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Sounds like it’s working how it should, I camber my iron to do just that
 

Dan689

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I have a 24x36” cast iron surface plate that I’ve sharpened on using increasing grits.. I need to get the feeler gauge out to know how accurate but used engineers blue on the entire sole as it cleaned up evenly.

It’s a corrugated sole of that would make a difference?

Cutting iron is square against a bahco try square so not a calibrated tool but wouldn’t it being off square mean it just needs lateral adjustment?

I’ve taken the corners off to prevent tracks but only with 3-4 strokes on each corner..
 

Dan689

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Wood wasn’t square but I did square up, it was a 18mm piece of pine..

If it’s working how it should what shaving width should I expect from a 50mm cutting iron?
 

Dan689

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Thanks everyone by the way, new to the site and it’s great people are replying instantly
 

Phil Pascoe

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You are right - its being slightly out of square would be compensated for by adjusting it. A corrugated sole would make no difference whatsoever.
 

shed9

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Welcome phil.p

You don't mention honing so do you sharpen to 25 and straight to the strop? Also is the Veritas used throughout the process?
 

Dan689

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I used 120, 180, 240,400, 600 papers on the surface plate using the Veritas guide set at 25 degrees then 1000 grit diamond stone again with the Veritas and then pulled it across a section f leather glued to a length of ply with cutting compound on it
 

worn thumbs

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If you think having a 50mm wide iron should mean that you get 50mm wide shavings,be glad you don't.I would pay good money to watch anybody who claims they can achieve more than about seven or eight such shavings-especially in a gnarly piece of hardwood.
 

Dan689

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I’m new to hand planes so what should I expect? I’d guessed with the corners taken off and running over a smooth piece of 3/4” stock I’d be able to cut across most of the iron, less maybe 5mm either side?? Is that right or way off? Using the center of the plane I was able to flatten and square up the edge of some oak, mahogany and apple stock all around 3/4-1” but I’ve always seen people set planes by adjusting what they take off each side and equalling them out with the lateral adjuster??
 

Jacob

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Dan689":2fvnma1b said:
I used 120, 180, 240,400, 600 papers on the surface plate using the Veritas guide set at 25 degrees then 1000 grit diamond stone again with the Veritas and then pulled it across a section f leather glued to a length of ply with cutting compound on it
:shock: :shock:
Modern sharpening! :shock: :shock:
Beginners get caught out with crazy sharpening techniques invented by obsessive madmen.
Much quicker, more effective and easier the old fashioned way; one fine oil stone (lasts for life), no jigs or other kit.
If it's cutting OK from the centre as you say, just keep using it. When it needs sharpening again don't go through that rigmarole. You will eventually get the hang of it.
You only get planes cutting the whole width with carefully set up demos by various showmen (Cosman etc) or in Japanese competitions on carefully selected softwood.
 

Dan689

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Ok thanks, I’d only gone to such efforts as it was an eBay but and was a rusty mess, now that it’s had it’s initial TLC I’ll only be sharpening on a 400 and 1000 grit diamond plate before honing on leather.. I’ll put it to work and see where I get.

Thanks for all the advice
 

Fitzroy

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Your eye is incredibly accurate, if you turn the plane over and sight down it you should be able to advance the blade (very slowly) and see if it is presented evenly through the mouth. You see if the centre is appearing first of not, if it is then it’s the plane/iron if it’s not then it’s the wood or technique.

I can only get full width shavings on my no 4 when the blade is super sharp, finished at 2000 then stropped, and then only for about 10-20 foot of planing. After that the blade dulls such that it won’t cut without being too heavy a cut to push.

By the way beware bringing sharpening in to the conversation, “thar be monsters”

Fitz
 

Dan689

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Lol cheers Fitz..

I’ll give that a go next week, not allowed out to play this weekend.. assuming the iron is good how could the wood affect it? I’d assume if it’s uneven and I’m meed of planning or is there more to it? So far I’ve tried setting the plane with a flat square piece of 3/4 stock
 

Ttrees

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The camber is essential, needed for taking heavy swipes off a board.
Depending on the work you do, it will dictate the amount of camber you need...
For instance, I work with reclaimed hardwood timbers only and have no need for a massive camber, as the timbers are prepared face and edge for the saw, afterwards there's very little work to be done.
The opposite end of the spectrum is someone who works with big slabs having to take off lots of material.

If your adamant on having a plane that takes full width shavings, you need another plane really.
Yes, you could just get another double iron and swap them out, I wouldn't want to bother faffing about like that though.
Unless your getting tearout, I wouldn't be so worried and just reduce the camber on the iron, especially at this stage.

If your finding the timber prone to tearing out, David Weaver has done much efforts to make this widely known about the cap iron, yet most people still seem to think its not a viable solution...
I don't know why this is, but surely these folks can't be listening to the types who are in the business of selling tools, who don't seem to
adknowledge what the double iron can do.
The proof is in the pudding folks
[youtube]Uc02mxDhX6A[/youtube]

Good luck
Tom
 

MikeG.

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Ttrees":2j2ggm5z said:
If your (sic) finding the timber prone to tearing out.........
Did he mention that?

Therefore, why bring it up other than hop on your old hobby horse again? Every single planing thread........sheesh.
 

shed9

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Fitzroy":1xiorm8o said:
Your eye is incredibly accurate
Good point and an oft neglected detail. Fingertips will also help to line it up (albeit extremely carefully) and have been proven to detect discrepancies down to 13 nanometres :shock: which is just nuts.
 
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