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Mike.C

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Byron,

So, could someone who also has this machine tell me where I can source a power-lead for this machine as all I received with it was a white cone that goes over the two poles that come out of the bottom of the NVR switch - is there a safe way to wire this cone/converter thing, or can I buy an off-the-shelf replacement? Its so frustrating having the machine sitting here but not have the means to use it.

My old Scheppach TS2500 table saw and Scheppach dust extractor also only came with the cone type plug that you are talking about. All I did was add the wire and a 13amp plug on each. The manual stated that the saw should be run on a 16amp circuit but I never had any problem with the 13 amp.
As Scrit says if you want/need to run it on 16amps then you will have to get a sparky to either fit an isolator and wire it into that, or get him to fit a 16 amp socket which will accept your cone plug.

I presume your cone plug is like one of these, if so the socket you want is below.

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro ... 9&id=12227

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro ... 2&id=16192

If you want to go straight into an isolater then you willneed one of these.

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro ... 9&ts=34366

Although like Lyndhurst, some other companies do only supply the cone plug, that is no excuse for them not answering you messages.

I hope that you can sort the whole mess out soon.

Cheers

Mike
 

ProShop

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BB,
As Scrit mentions most heavy rated machines you have to wire them in yourself 16 or 20 amp +.

All the trade machines I've bought come with no lead etc. Even some light trade machines are the same. I suspect if it's a 2hp machine the manufacturer would be recommending a 16amp setup.
Remember the motor has to spin up a heavy cutterblock plus feedin/outfeed drivetrain.

hope this helps
 

ByronBlack

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Hi fella's cheers for the info and tips.

The instructions are terrible, quite possibly the worst translation i've ever seen, and there's no mention of the 16a requirement or information on how to wire it. Also, the axminster pdf download doesnt mention this either or atleast not what i've found.

Mike, when it comes to electrics I have absoltely no idea, so those sockets that you linked to have me even more confused, how would I plug those in to a regular three-pin plug? Also the cone thing is a sealed part so I can't even see where to wire a regular plug to it, i'll have to take a photo and post it on here tomorrow..

I'm really starting to regret the purchase now!
 

ByronBlack

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Hi Mike,

No, unfortunatly it doesn't look like that, it's a lot smaller and seems to go almost inside the NVR switch, there are then only two poles, whereas the sockets you linked to have three - not sure if thats a big deal or not.
 

ByronBlack

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Ok, some pictures of the white cone thing:

436921816_3659de89c8.jpg


436922109_2589dd8bbd.jpg


436922063_14fc0b6ca8.jpg


Thats all that was supplied.

I've since found a small leaf of paper with some electical information on it, this is what is says:

"Supply cable must be 1.5mm with strengthened insulation (H07) or 2.5mm is longer than 10m"

"SINGLE PHASE 230V CONNECTION: This connection should be made with a 3 core cable and a standard 16A two pole + earth plug. Two wires are provided for the supply (L1, L2) and the third (yellow/green) must be connected to the earth."

There are no wires provided, just the two poles from the NVR switch, and I can't see an earth wire anywhere - because it's saying it needs a 16A does that mean I can't use a 3 pin plug? If not then this machine is redundant to me, looks like I might have to find it a new home otherwise.
 

cutting42

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Hi Byron

That looks like a European in-line plug socket, a very strange fitting to use. However they should come apart by unscrewing the screw visible in the first photo where the pins plug in. The centre should pull out allowing you to fit a flex and then wire in a regular UK 13A plugtop or 16A like Mike C described.

I seem to remember you are Essex ish. If you can be about this Thursday late morning to lunchtime I could come round and help you figure it out as I am passing on my way to Newmarket.
 

PaulO

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ByronBlack":1r5bc6g6 said:
Thats all that was supplied.

- because it's saying it needs a 16A does that mean I can't use a 3 pin plug? If not then this machine is redundant to me, looks like I might have to find it a new home otherwise.

That's the same connector I have on my Jet PT350 at the machine end. You need to run 1.5mm or 2.5mm flex from that connector. On the other end of the flex you should fit one of these:
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/GW240slash16slash3P.html

Which in turn plugs into one of these:
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/GW240slash16slash3S.html
which you will need an electrician to wire into its own circuit from your consumer unit, probably with a 16A type C circuit breaker (type C breakers allow a higher current for a short period for motor starting).

That's what you should do, but as some others have said you might get away with just wiring a standard 3 pin plug on the thing. The starting current may well be higher than 13 amps, which exceeds the continuous use design spec of a 13 amp plug, obviously. But the running current will be much less than 13 amps.

Caveat: I am not classed as a competent part P electrician, so you make your own choices at your own risk, blah, blah blah.
 

OLD

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The m/c works on 13amp supply so you need 3 core flex 2.5mm if lead is to be longer than 10meter but 2.5 probably better any way .Its not polarised so wire the earth to the metal strip and power to sockets .
Paul O has it wrong a 16 amp supply is not required.
 

ByronBlack

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HI everyone, thanks for the tips regarding the cone, i'll order myself some flex and have a go with the wiring.

Gareth, that is very kind of you to offer to help, but i'm afraid i'm at work during that time. It seems fairly straight forward, though from what everyone has said, so i'll give it a go and see how I get on.

Thanks everyone!

Looking at the euro cone plug thing - it doesn't state which side the various wires go into, can anyone guide me on this?
 

PaulO

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ByronBlack":wowyymla said:
Ok, some pictures of the white cone thing:

436921816_3659de89c8.jpg

I'm pleased to see that even the plug is rusting.

Are you sure that Lyndhurst didn't rescue this machine from Branscome beach, a victim of the MSC Napoli? :lol:

p.s.: Old, I recommended a 16 amp supply as that is what the instructions BB posted said should be used, probably to cover starting current.
 

WellsWood

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ByronBlack":ibobw6cf said:
Looking at the euro cone plug thing - it doesn't state which side the various wires go into, can anyone guide me on this?

Hi BB,

It doesn't matter which way round you wire it sinnce it will plug into the socket on the machine either way. Obviously though, the live and neutral go to the 2 main pins ( the holes you can see when you look in the end of the plug), the earth is the strap that goes across the middle - it'll all be quite obvious once you get that plug apart to connect tha flex. Don't take offence, but in the event that it isn't obvious get somebody who knows what they're doing to rig it up for you - the penalty for errors with electricity may include DEATH, and we'd all hate to lose such a prolific and enthusiastic member (well, any member really, but you get my drift :wink: )

Mark
 

Adam

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PaulO":b6sjo22m said:
That's what you should do, but as some others have said you might get away with just wiring a standard 3 pin plug on the thing. The starting current may well be higher than 13 amps, which exceeds the continuous use design spec of a 13 amp plug, obviously. But the running current will be much less than 13 amps.

Byron,

Basically Scheppach have that same connector. Like your instructions, they recommend linking to a dedicated 16 amp outlet. Whilst I do intend to implement that in the current workshop, in the last one, I simply wired a standard 3 pin plug on it. I measured the steady state motor current at 10amps, so no doubt it does take more at startup. However in a year or twos use, it only tripped a fuse on a handfull of occasions. A) Get some 13 amps fuses and keep them handy if you try this and B)if you plug it into a double socket, don't put any other high current draw item in the other socket.

If you are still powering your workshop from a thin extension cable forget trying. That really won't be up to spec unless its extremely heavyduty. If you are going to be running this type of machinery in there, you will need to get a dedicated supply in a decent cable size installed (probably) from your main consumer box.

Adam
 

ByronBlack

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Hi Mark - You are absolutely correct, if I can't see an obvious way of doing it i'll leave it to a sparky, I personally hate anything to with eletrics and I probably know more about quantum physics than I do domestic electricals!

Adam - I spoke to Richard from Lyndhurst today and he pretty much confirmed what you said. Basically I can forget about using the extension lead that i've currently got in the workshop. I have all the wiring done and a consumer unit and the extension lead powers this until SWMBO's dad can come over and complete the wiring to the main house supply.

Also, the extension lead is plugged into my only available double socket in the kitchen so I can't plug the P/T into that either, so looks like i'm a little stuck.

I really wished I did some more research on this before being suckered in by a shiny bargain - let this be a warning to other impulse buyers!!

Maybe i'd be better off with two smaller seperates afterall..
 

Sawdust

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ByronBlack":3r79sxul said:
I really wished I did some more research on this before being suckered in by a shiny bargain - let this be a warning to other impulse buyers!!

I still think you got a pretty good deal, it's a nice solid looking machine at a bloody good price. The rust is a bit of a pain but it looks fairly cosmetic and I'm sure you will get years of use out of it.

As for your electrics, they needed sorting out anyway so you've not really lost anything and the addition of a 16Amp socket while the proper cable to your consumer unit is being connected is no big deal.

If you want to swap it for my Electra Beckum P/T, you're welcome as it runs fine on a 13A plug!

Happy planing
Mike
 

LyNx

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I really wished I did some more research on this before being suckered in by a shiny bargain - let this be a warning to other impulse buyers!!

I don' think you need to. Surely it's up to the supplier to inform you of these matters first hand.
 

ByronBlack

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Andy, you do have a point, but I suppose in hindsight it was perhaps naive of me to think I could run a P/T of that size on an extension lead. I might have to just chalk this one up to experience and seek a different solution.
 

Mike.C

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Adam,

Basically Scheppach have that same connector. Like your instructions, they recommend linking to a dedicated 16 amp outlet. Whilst I do intend to implement that in the current workshop, in the last one, I simply wired a standard 3 pin plug on it.

Thanks Adam I knew that I had remembered correctly.

As I said, even though it stated in the manual that it should be hooked up to a 16 amp circuit I never had any problem running it with a 13 amp plug, in fact it never tripped the fuse once.

That said, in the long run it is always better fitting it to a 16 amp circuit because as Adam states you will not be able to run another high current machine at the same time.

IMHO if you are going to get a sparky to run this circuit and you are going to buy other machines in the future, then get him run the whole lot through an isolator like the one I mentioned above. This will stop any kids/grand kids be able to switch the machines on when you are not about because you can lock it in the off position with a small padlock. Better safe the sorry.

Cheers

Mike
 

ByronBlack

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Ok, I've had an idea.

The workshop isn't that far from the house, so if I use the thicker 2.5mm core cable can I run that from the workshop and into a different socket in the house - say in the living room, total distance I think is about 50ft, on the end of this cable I would include a 13Amp fuse and plug. All I would do then, is each time I need it, walk the cable from the workshop and into the house.

If that would work, is this cable from screwfix the right one to use:
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId=A331782&ts=89270&id=97520
 

lurker

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Byron,

It's time to stop thinking and get a sparky in.
The solution will be fairly simple once he has sussed out your consumer unit.

Any lash ups are going, at best, to cause a fire.
 
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