Table saw for plastics and phenolics (and wood of course!)

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PhillyDee

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Basically, been reading a lot of reviews on table saws, and it seems the general use is of course, for wood. What I need is a table saw capable of cutting phenolic laminates (Hard laminates brand name of ABET to name one), acrylic plastic upto about 10mm thick. All without chipping them.

I am currently looking at the Jet JTS-600 and the MJ12-1600. Since it will not be in constant use, the JET seems like a good option as it has a smaller footprint. I do not, however, want to buy a smaller machine and then wish I had bought the larger one.

Generally, I will be cutting down a sheet size of 1500 x 1500 to be around the maximum, but would also be used for ripping down larger sheets of PLY and MDF as required (Good finishes are not important on these materials but is required on the phenolic laminates and acrylics). I understand the sort of blade required would need to be TCG and a negative rake of around 5-10 degrees. (Feel free to correct me of course! experience beats technical info in my eyes). Also, the sliding table is clearly required, but I notice 2 different types, American and European style Difference?

I did buy a Triton workcentre with a circular saw that fits into it with the intention of doing plastics and woods, but it is neither suitable, nor that easy or pleasant to use. Far too much deflection, and loves to shatter the edges of plastics. Even with the right blade! Of course, this was the wrong purchase, so will be getting sold when a new saw arrives.

Budget is to be around £1500 (I already have a small 850m3 dust / chip extractor).

Thanks!
 
Those with the real knowledge and experience will sort you out soon Phillydee but i would think that the type of blade you use will be as or maybe more important than the saw itself,there is a chap on here that is a wiz with all things blade related and he will advise the best blade or blades that you need ( his name escapes me at the mo but the friendly folk on here will let you know it). I occasionally cut the odd bit of laminate and i find that the scoring blade on my saw really helps to minimise chipping.

Regards

Mark
 
i am not convinced that a table saw would be the ideal solution for plastics. For no other reason than i have never seen the question asked before, and have seen the question asked of bandsaws from time to time.
 
Cheers for a link to the blades, do they deliver to the UK cheaply enough? And what do you reckon for number of teeth? My expertise lies elsewhere than circular saws!

Is that the purpose of the scoring blade? I had a quick look through the letter box of the unit I am looking at getting with a torch, and underestimated the size of the place. Its rather large and so so far, I have a tendency to go for the larger unit.

The cuts I will be doing will be repetitive batchworking for the most part, making blanks for the router to engrave etc.

If a bandsaw is a better option, then all well and good, but would he sheet sizes would be a touch on the large side to get a bandsaw to eat them well?
 
a tracksaw could also be an option- i am sure that festool do a plastics blade.

Your sheet sizes may be an issue on a bandsaw.
 
Hi Phillydee

No problem using a decent tablesaw for plastics as long as you use a zero insert and the correct blade. We used to cut an awful lot of acrylics, polycarb, pvc and engineering plastic sheet for the sign and display industry without issues.
It's a long time ago so can't remenmber the exact blade but it was tungsten toothed, negative rake and I think about 64 teeth. We also had them sharpended very regularly.

If you go to the various manufacturers websites e.g. ICI (perspex), Rhom (plexiglass) there is a wealth of machining info specs available.

There is (or was) a point of display company neer you called Techform Plastics. They might be willing to offer advice if you call in. Providing you aren't in competition that is :wink:

Hope that helps

Bob
 
I recently cut acrylic on my table saw cleanly without any chipping using a 60 tooth negative rake blade (that I use on my radial arm saw). There are also blades that are designed to cut laminate and veneers which also seem to have high numbers of teeth.

Any table saw would suffice but you need to ensure you are supporting the material to be cut.

Misterfish
 
PhillyDee":3onj7gmk said:
Cheers for a link to the blades, do they deliver to the UK cheaply enough? And what do you reckon for number of teeth? My expertise lies elsewhere than circular saws!

Is that the purpose of the scoring blade? I had a quick look through the letter box of the unit I am looking at getting with a torch, and underestimated the size of the place. Its rather large and so so far, I have a tendency to go for the larger unit.

The cuts I will be doing will be repetitive batchworking for the most part, making blanks for the router to engrave etc.

If a bandsaw is a better option, then all well and good, but would he sheet sizes would be a touch on the large side to get a bandsaw to eat them well?


I was using the 100 tooth blades from Gila. They always used to ship free if you spent $100 or more.
 
Well, and update.

Bought the MJ12-1600, and just taken delivery today (4 weeks for delivery!!) and what a cracking piece of kit. All assembled and just done a few test cuts. Manual leaves something to be desired, but meh, got there in the end! One word of advice, make sure you buy a Type C breaker if on its own circuit, it was tripping one twice the breaking current (using a 20A) after 1 second while starting up.

Its nice and quiet, and actually shipped with a TCG blade! Cut some bookcases down to make shelves and the edge is perfect. I am over the moon to be honest!
 
Yeah, now I need a better extractor . . . . My 1660 sqft unit is now covered in a layer of dust. Guess the hobby series extractor I originally bought for the laser is no good for this saw. In fact, I think its actually producing dust . . . .
 
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