Table Saw Flatness Tolerance

[Bodgers]

I've taken off the fence rails and extension tables, and loosened the table mounting bolts, now it will sit in my workshop until Monday morning when I'll check if it has moved at all. I'm not expecting much to happen but it's relatively little effort; and who knows how long it's been sat fully locked to the chassis since it came off the line?

Thanks again for all advice.

Bit of an older thread, but how did this look in the end? Are you happy with it?

These comments broadly confirm my thoughts. Most likely I'll set it up as well as I can as-is and get some proper use out of it to see if any genuine problems emerge, or indeed if the step continues to bother me. If so I'll have a go at sanding the whole top with a good flat plate.

Cheers

Before you start down the abrasive route you should be aware that it's bloody hard slow work

Sent from my MI 3W using Tapatalk

 

[andersonec]

These tables are quite adjustable, just check underneath and a 13 mm spanner with some props (to support the tables while you adjust them) and a few thin shims (or even masking tape) and a rubber mallet will do the job.

Andy

 

[Bodgers]

These tables are quite adjustable, just check underneath and a 13 mm spanner with some props (to support the tables while you adjust them) and a few thin shims (or even masking tape) and a rubber mallet will do the job.

Andy

He isn't taking about level, but flatness of the milling of the top.

Sent from my MI 3W using Tapatalk

 

[deema]

If uts cast iron, after you've run a few kilometres of stuff over it will be flat where the stuff runs and dippegd in comparison to the rest of the table.

A saw is for rough dimensioning, planing gets you to accurate dimensions. I think it's good enough at the tolerances you've stated. Ideally IMO it would be slightly crowned where the blade rises up as this wears the most!