table saw buying advice

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druster

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Right, I am about ready to buy,
I am basically in the market for a 5-600 pound table saw.
do I buy a http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Axmi ... 577232.htm
or a sip 10" or push the budget a sip 12" or really kicking the buttocks out of my budget a excalibur 10" cabinet saw.
what are peoples opinions on these?
this is for cabinet making and joinery (paid).cheers,
Dru

also want to know the rip capacity on the sips?
 
thanks for that I'll have a good look at your review, what is the rip capacity with the extensions as standard?
 
Druster

I think you will get good reports of both the Axminster and the SIP saws, personally I have the Axminster and the reason being that I wanted the sliding table, you may also have the SIP with the sliding table but the price went too high for me, having said that, I no longer have the sliding table fixed to the saw but it will be replaced when I get a bigger workshop :D

My workshop at the moment is 8 feet 6" wide and the saw with the sliding table was 7 feet 6", a tight squeeze.
 
Hi Dru
I have the Xcalibur on loan for filming and am very happy with it. I would prefer the switch to be on the left but I've quite got used to it now. The build quality is fantastic, it's built like a tank. That's its strongest point really, it will last for ever, even if the design is fairly traditional. You can see me using it in my latest YouTube videos if you want.

The other saw in this price bracket you may wish to consider is the Jet. You can mount the switch anywhere you want. It's downsides, to my mind are that it is not built quite so well and it has a bigger footprint - it takes up a lot of space, especially with the sliding table. The other thing that put me off this was reading quite a few less-than-favourable reviews from people who had used it daily for a couple of years. Worn and seized bearings was a common complaint. Certainly if you look under the bonnet and compare the two they are poles apart. At this price point a saw should be capable of professional use.

I think Tony has the Ax and is very pleased with it, I think he has a review somewhere on here, IIRC.

I think you are complicating matters by suggesting a 5-600 budget but then dropping in the X! You can't really compare the two. People who have the SIP usually say that it is a lot of saw for the money. I've seen one at a show and I think they are probably right. That doesn't mean it is good in absolute terms though. I'm not trying to knock it, I've not used it, I don't know, I'm just pointing out that it is not the same, that's all.

The best thing you can do is to try a few out. Either track down local woodies with different machines or go to a sho. Harrogate is on right now, although I do appreciate it is not exactly local to you!

Best of luck with your search.
S
 
thanks for that, the reason I threw it in is if I can justify the expense I would go for the pricier machine, just wanted to get a handle on whether the additional cost is worthwhile, sounds like it probably is.
 
Hi Druster, I just recently received the SIP 10" - and if you do a quick search on my last 20-30 posts, you'll find a number of lengthy threads discussing the various virtues of saws in this bracket. For my first impressions of the saw, have a look on the general woodworking forum for a thread titled 'It's Alive'.

I think it's a good saw, relatively well made, it has a few niggles, but nothing I would suggest that would put anyone off, for the budget it's hard to see anything better.
 
Hi Dru,

I also have the Xcalibur (806) and would echo Steve's comments: yes, it's more than the Ax and SIP (which I know are very good value) but it's very solid and heavy. The table is very smooth and the whole thing, as Steve says, gives the impression that it's built to last. Of course, if you insist on a sliding table, the Xcalibur one is c £400 extra and is roughly the size of Wales.......

You pays your money, etc. HTH

Paul
 
Steve Maskery":2u9mbhmx said:
I would prefer the switch to be on the left but I've quite got used to it now.

Thought about adding a pivoted plate across the front so you can knock it from any position with your knee without reaching across? I'm sure you could knock something up without moving the switch itself?

Adam
 
Adam":1u2hvnaz said:
Thought about adding a pivoted plate across the front so you can knock it from any position with your knee without reaching across? I'm sure you could knock something up without moving the switch itself?

Hi Adam,
Yes I have given it (fleeting) thought. The main problem is ensuring it doesn't foul the handwheel, but yes, I'm sure it must be possible.
I'm also working on a rather more modern guard. Mine has a very trad crown guard and it's rather too high for my liking. I gather they now have a different one fitted as standard, but that's no help to me, of course. I have a sort of poor-man's SUVA in my head. Pity that's only where it is!

Cheers
Steve
 
Steve Maskery":zjhs6wms said:
At this price point a saw should be capable of professional use.

Figuratively, or in reality? A professional would be acting unlawfully if he puts a non-CE marked machine into use in the course of a business (and would invalidate any insurance).

Hence they used to have a more expensive (CE marked) range, probably still do, but I haven't looked.
 
I figured as much (but I can't help being a lawyer).

I do find it slightly surprising that there are companies which take the risk themselves of criminal prosecution for selling non-CE marked machinery. I guess the judgment is that the law is simply not enforced, at least at a retail level, where the Health and Safety Exec are unlikely to visit. And its only a piddling fine, £2k max, so I guess the rewards outweigh the risk.
 

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