supporting a drop leaf

[edwardr]

Hi,

I've been working on a desk in an alcove with a drop lead. Thanks to this forum I've now completed the top in 18mm spruce ply (rather than 12mm MDF) with a nice routed rule joint and table hinges, to make a nice drop leaf I'm pretty chuffed with myself as someone who has never done any real woodwork before.

I want to support the drop leaf when it's up, and the way I saw Norm Abrams doing it on youtube was by making a piece of wood that swings out under the dropleaf. The problem is I'm struggling to drill a perfectly vertical hole in the cross piece that it pivots on, so it's not working out so well..

What I would rather to is fine an appropriate hinge (I'm thinking like something from a gate) that I can mount on a piece of CLS that runs under the table, an inch or so behind the hinge. Fixed to this hinge would be some appropriate timber/cls/ply and it would swing out under the leaf and support it, when it's up. Would that work, and are there any appropriate hinges for that?

Alternatively I've seen in a few places "folding shelf supports" but I'm not sure if they would work or not? They seem a bit pricey too..

Any ideas?

 

[Brentingby]

A couple of traditional ways:

Number 5 must be the one you are referring to. I have a dining table that uses that method to support the leaves. The table is about 180 years old and they are still perfectly usable. The first method could be done with a gate hinge but you need clearance between the skirting and the hinge line.

There are plenty of options for metal hardware. A Google search will turn them up.

 

[edwardr]

Yes, I attempted 5. Thanks for digging out that diagram!

Basically, unless the pin is perfectly vertical on figure 5 the, arm does not swing along the same y axis. I'm struggling to drill vertically with a hand drill, so looking for another method.

The finger and knuckle joints look interesting, which is the easier for a beginner? I have a router, so maybe the knuckle joint? I would still prefer to find an appropriate hinge though, that allows me to mimic those mechanisms.

I have a piece of 69 x 38 CLS going across the underside of the desk top about 20mm back from the hinge, which I hope to fix something to, which swings out.

 

[Brentingby]

As I said, you could substitute your gate hinge for the knuckle joint. Just add an appropriate wooden support arm to the hinge.

For the future it might be worth learning how to drill a hole square to a surface with a hand drill. It can be done if you use a square as a reference and some caution. Practice, practice, practice.

 

[custard]

I haven't done many rule joints plus knuckle joint supports, maybe about three or four. If I'm honest I've never been 100% satisfied with the results, they weren't dreadful by any means, but I'm a bit of a perfectionist and they never quite came up to the standard I wanted.

I read in David Charlesworth's book a really excellent account of tackling both of these joints, and it was clear that the traditional knuckle joint is extremely challenging, I'd suggest it's one of the most challenging joints in woodworking. There's simpler versions of a knuckle joint and if I ever need to repeat the exercise then that's the route I'll take, if you can get the David Charlesworth book that covers these joints you'll find it very instructive, I've never found another account that goes into anything like the same level of detail.

 

[whiskywill]

A simple aid to drilling a vertical hole. http://www.instructables.com/id/How-To- ... rill-Usin/

 

[dc_ni]

You could use a dowel jig as a guide, you can pick them up cheap enough

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Wolfcraft-4...TF8&qid=1412073721&sr=1-14&keywords=dowel+jig

 

[Wizard9999]

A simple aid to drilling a vertical hole. http://www.instructables.com/id/How-To- ... rill-Usin/

Surely in the pictures he checks the wrong square, he checked lego is at 90 degrees to itself but I would have thought what he needs to check is that lego is at 90 degrees to the wood he is drilling?

Terry.

 

[mailee]

If there is enough room under the table you could have a slide out bearer instead of something that hinges. :wink:

 

[AndyT]

Whether you use a support that swings round or one that slides out, it only needs to fit snugly at one point, ie where it goes when the flap is up.
So you can fit a little bit of wood underneath your flap, to take up any slack. Cut a little slope on it so that the support tightens up as it comes into position. You can even include a stop.
I think this could still work ok if your hinge pin is not at exactly 90°.