Storage Bench

[Squallers]

Evening all,

This is my first post here and I was hoping that you fine folks could help me out with a project I'm planning.

The idea is to make a storage chest/bench which will live in my conservatory. It will be 1500mm long, 600mm deep, and about 560mm tall (including a 100mm plinth). The lid will be attached using a piano hinge. Hopefully it'll end up looking something like this:

I've knocked together a few things out of ply and built a desk and monitor shelf using oak worktops but I'm far from experienced and have a few concerns about my current plan.

Materials - I was thinking some sort of 18mm sheet for the main box. Would standard MDF do the job, is it worth going with MR or possibly even plywood of some sort? This will be used as seating so it needs to be reasonably sturdy.
(The mock paneling will be made from 6mm MDF)

Construction - I don't have a workshop and only basic tools so I was thinking just glued and screwed at the corners and edges (using the mock frame to hide my shame).
The plinth will be constructed of 100mm strips of whatever I use for the main box, with blocks of 45mm x 44mm redwood as feet in the corners and central braces.
Again, do you think this will be robust enough, would a 4x40mm screw be about the right size?


Conditions - with it living in the conservatory I'm a bit concerned about the lid warping. The final piece will be painted, will that seal a plywood lid adiquately, or do you think I'll need to brace it in some way?

That'll probably do for starters. Constructive criticism and suggestions will be gladly accepted.

Thanks

Edit: Fixed image

 

[will1983]

All looks and sounds OK to me Squallers. I would go straight for 18mm MDF for the case and lid. I wouldn't bother with the Ply as that is more likely to warp on you and MDF takes paint better anyway.

If you were concerned about the edges of the lid getting knocked and damaged you could just lip them with more of the redwood.

Good luck.
Will

 

[Squallers]

Thanks for the reassurance Will.

That's a good point about the edges of the lid, I was planning on using some D shaped moulding for those.

My only remaining concern is with the hinge. Will the edges of the MDF hold the screws well enough or do you think it's worth using some softwood on those edges as well to help them bite?

Thanks

 

[MikeG.]

Just a minor design point...I'd suggest having the plinth proud of the box, like a skirting, rather than set back under. That's a somewhat unusual look at the moment, more akin to a kitchen unit with kickspace for toes.

 

[will1983]

My only remaining concern is with the hinge. Will the edges of the MDF hold the screws well enough or do you think it's worth using some softwood on those edges as well to help them bite?

Thanks

Well if you lip the back edge of the top with the redwood then they will have plenty of hold in that.

 

[Adam9453]

If it’s going to be painted then mr mdf would be my choice every time.
For the construction I would recommend spax mdf screws and ensure you drill the correct sized pilot hole for them to avoid splitting the boards.
For the lid I would be inclined to make the perimeter frame from solid timber (softwood or tulipwood ideally) with the mr mdf for the panels (ideally rebates into the underside of the timber perimeter framework. This will Avoid issues with the screws wearing loose in the mdf. Likewise put a solid timber lip on the back of the carcass, again to screw into for the piano hinge.
I’d also add soft closers to the lid so it doesn’t slam shut on some poor soles fingers.
For the plinth, I’d add another full length rib along the long dimension in the centre and a few noggins in between to ensure its full supported across the underneath. I like the set back plinth, I think it lightens the overall look somewhat.
Any other questions, please feel free to shout

 

[Squallers]

Thanks for the feedback guys,

The set back plinth was indeed intended to lighten the look (along with clearing the skirting so that it can sit flush to the wall). I've also revised the design to take 100mm off the depth so that the cross section is closer to square.

For the plinth, I’d add another full length rib along the long dimension in the centre and a few noggins in between to ensure its full supported across the underneath.

My current plan for the plinth is this:

Do you think that will provide enough support?

 

[Adam9453]

Yes that will be fine 8)

 

[MikeG.]

.........The set back plinth was indeed intended to lighten the look (along with clearing the skirting so that it can sit flush to the wall)..........

I urge you to rethink the set-back plinth. It looks really odd. There's a reason that you won't see any other blanket boxes with such a feature.

If you are planning on having this set hard against the wall, I hope you have thought the lid hinge design through thoroughly, as it will not only mean a pivot point above the top edge of lid, it will also mean that the lid won't stay open of its own accord, unless there is a flat element on the top behind the lid pushing the pivot point well forward of the back edge of the box.

 

[Squallers]

I urge you to rethink the set-back plinth. It looks really odd. There's a reason that you won't see any other blanket boxes with such a feature.

I appreciate your concern Mike but I quite like the design so unless there's a structural reason that it won't work I think we're going to have to agree to disagree.

If you are planning on having this set hard against the wall, I hope you have thought the lid hinge design through thoroughly, as it will not only mean a pivot point above the top edge of lid, it will also mean that the lid won't stay open of its own accord, unless there is a flat element on the top behind the lid pushing the pivot point well forward of the back edge of the box.

This is exactly my plan, as there's also a window sill which it will be sitting underneath which needs to be cleared. For this element (along with several others) I took "inspiration" from this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kYm2PpcZZKY

The detail around the hinge should look something like this:

The back of the lid and the front of the rear will be lipped with some solid wood to give the screws something to bite, and I'm planning to run a 1x1 batten to give the lid something to rest on (again as per Peter's video)