Steve's workshop - Painting the outside walls

[williams1185]

hi steve been following your build looks impressive i would certainly go for the second lock as my choice are you still going with open out on the single door as from the shape of the receiver it may be possible to burst the frame with a crowbar . if opening in no problem but i would add a locking pad bolt as well

 

[PAC1]

Steve, for mastered locks I would go to a specialist locksmith

 

[Harry 48]

Hi Steve lockshop-warehouse.co.uk may be worth a look for keyed alike mortice locks love the build keep going mate

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I have seen keyed alike Yale type cylinders in packs of three before, it might be worth trying to track them down. You may end up with a locksmith but it'll cost an arm and a leg. It's worth looking into "Smartwater" to mark your gear - everything I have that's worth more than about twenty quid is marked. When it comes to thieving toerags, every little helps. :twisted:

edit. Of course you're looking for deadlocks. Euro locks are quicker and easier to fit - it might be easier to find identical cylinders for them than to find identical conventional mortice locks.

 

[Zeddedhed]

Steve,
take a look at this page http://www.thesafeshop.co.uk/Categories ... ike/1.html for deadlocks that can be keyed alike.

HTH

Pete

 

[Gerard Scanlan]

Hi Steve,
Why not just dig a moat for security? With all the rain we have been having it should soon fill up.
What about just leaving the door ajar at night but perching a bucket of panel pins on top of the door. Too mediëval? I used to love the bucket of water trick when I was a kid, that was after I learned about it the hard way

Seriously though, I believe that intruder lighting and cameras are a really good deterent. Now if your build had not been so well advertised you could have considered having a picture of the interior of your shed while empty printed on a roller blind so that when drawn and seen from a distance the shed would look empty. It would still work on hard working burglars with no time to read and write on woodwork forums. Locks and doors are always weak spots in a building so you have to make them awkward to tackle.

If you bolt your machines to the floor they will be tricky to pinch won't they? If I remember correctly a lot of you stuff was pinched because it had been in an unlocked barn.

 

[RobinBHM]

Those hinges are excellent, perfect for your application


I think it would be tricky to get keyed alike mortice locks but as Phil mentions if you use euro lock cases for the deadbolt and sashlock then a pair of keyed alike euro cylinders could be used. If you decide to go down this route I'd be happy to post a pair out (I only have them in 40-40 size, brushed stainless, for a 54 to 58mm thick door, 6 pin).

Robin

 

[Setch]

5-lever, BS3621 deadlocks, and a matching sash lock in the middle position. Much better than euro profile stuff, and easier to fit.

If you get the same brand and type (ie: union 2134e deadlocks and 2234e sash lock) thru can be keyed alike, though you may have to source levers from a locksmith. It's very easy to do, if you can build a workshop you can relever a lock! PM if you want a hand walking through the process.

 

[Zeddedhed]

Steve,
the link I posted earlier (4 posts earlier in fact) will take you to a site where they will supply keyed alike Mortice Deadlocks at NO EXTRA COST!

Take a look.. http://www.thesafeshop.co.uk/products/e ... -67mm.html

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I found Euro stuff easier - by the bye - I changed a Euro cylinder when I moved house, and when I asked if the new one was insurance compliant ( this was an established specialised supplier) the guy just laughed and said no, none of them are. I found that difficult to believe with the millions of uPVC doors in this country.

 

[Graham Orm]

Steve this is my set up. I believe it's safer than any form of conventional locking. Having your kit taken will be heartbreaking (why am I telling you that?). It will be doubly so if you skimp on security.
I did this myself, but if you don't weld it would be easy enough for someone to do for you.

 

[Wizard9999]

Steve

Have read the entire thread over the last couple of days after somebody highlighted it to me - I am planning my own very much more modest workshop in the near future. It is a true monster of a structure and I just don't think I would have the bottle to take on something on such a scale. And it looks fantastic.

The one question I have is that at 56m2 does this need building reg's approval as well as planning? I don't think I have seen any mention of building reg's, so if it does need approval does it all happen at the end of the build for an outbuilding, as opposed to at various stages throughout the build?

Again, more power to your elbow, you are doing a fantastic job!

Wizard9999.

 

[OLD]

Your question is about door hardware, so does this mean that you are thinking about whole building security. As we all know any security can be breached but we can make it difficult, time consuming and increase the risk of getting caught doing it. Would it be idea to talk with a crime prevention officer .My own method is to secure doors and windows and have security lights and a security system with movement detectors that are visible, also sounders inside that are so loud you cannot think (if there is a law on this i break it).I use movement detectors as a relative that worked at hull prison said the prisoners hate them with a passion. There is lots of security to choose from if this is your strategy.

 

[SeanG]

Steve, is it worth contacting your insurer to see if they have a list of approved locks?

And a question on nails if I may, it looks like you are using the same Paslode framing nailer to attach the cladding as you used for the framing. What nails (length & guage) are you using please?

keep on (hammer) &

Sean

 

[Benchwayze]

Steve.

As an extra-cum-backup, have you seen these.

http://www.gatehingesboltslatchesandhan ... ?catid=450


I have one for my shed and one for my side-gate.
They are quite reassuring.

HTH
John

 

[Stu_2]

I'm pretty security conscious, and was lucky enough to have a friendly local fabricator make up some door security bits for me. I couldn't really find what I wanted so knocked-up a design, gave him the lock, and he came up trumps. Took a few weeks as he's always busy, and did bits at a time whenever he could, but only charged about £120. Pretty good value considering that's all the materials and fixings, including the 1.5m 20mm stainless bar.

The lock is a serious bit of kit, and Machine Mart currently sell them for about £63. The lock box has a protruding lip to make it very difficult to get access to the lock at the necessary angle with a drill bit.

The workshop is also a separate zone of the main house alarm, which has live bell boxes back and front. Outside sockets are isolated when not in use. Hopefully it's all enough to make it just too problematic for any low-life to bother with. If they still fancied a go, hopefully my mate next door will point his 12-bore at them for additional discouragement :twisted:

Hope that helps, but if I ever lose the keys I'm f***** :mrgreen:

Cheers
Stu

 

[RogerS]

Any good ?

http://www.asllocks.com/moreinfo.asp

But don't forget this either ...

 

[Steve Maskery]

Thanks guys. Sorry for being quiet, I've had an unplanned break. Collapsed in agony last night. I'm lying in a hospital bed waiting for a scan. I'm OK now and should be home tonight. Catch you later.

 

[Newbie_Neil]

Hi Steve,

Take care of yourself.

I have two door handle security locks that you can have, if they are any good to you. I'll dig them out and let you have the details.

Neil

 

[Setch]

To all the folks preventing your door opening, please also take steps to ensure it isn't just secured in the middle - I've seem more than a few doors which have the bottom third smashed off, leaving a great big hole to enter through. This is why I favour at least 2 deadlocks top and bottom, if not three.