Stanley No 78 - any tips for use.

[baldpate]

Hi,

I'm looking for tips to help me solve the problem I have when using the 78 rebate plane, whereby I end up with a rebate which isn't quite parallel to the face of the board (a bit deeper on the outside edge of the cut compared with the inner edge). I've checked that the blade is parallel to the sole, so I'm obviously unintentionally tilting the plane slightly to the left rather than keeping it absolutely vertical. I tried attaching a vertical rod to the front of the plane, to help me keep the plane dead upright, but it didn't seem to help much.

I was using the plane to cut rebates on the outer edges of the four walnut boards which will form the frame for a veneered box top panel. Despite concentrating hard, two of the four ended up out of true. Does anybody have any tips/tricks for avoiding this problem?

Thanks

Chris

 

[carlb40]

How about clamping a piece of timber to the panel and using it as a fence? That way you have something guide you and you will be able to see a gap along the timber if you start to angle the plane. Assuming one side is square to the sole that is

 

[Phil Pascoe]

How about clamping a piece of timber to the panel and using it as a fence? That way you have something guide you and you will be able to see a gap along the timber if you start to angle the plane. Assuming one side is square to the sole that is

It's more important that the cutting edge of the blade is at 90 degrees to the side - if the sole and the side are perfect, then you set the iron out of parallel to the sole, you're not going to gain much.

 

[Jacob]

Basically it's the same tricks which apply to most tools:
1. Don't rely on the tool to do it for you, it's up to you to get it right by watching what you are doing and altering technique accordingly.
2. Do it to marks, this stops you overshooting and you can see where it's going wrong and where you have to put it right.
3 Practice, practice!!! on scrap until you get it right

It's an excellent tool the 78 but does take a bit of concentration to get the best out of it. There's a thread somewhere I'll see if I can spot it.

 

[Graham Orm]

I bought one of these off ebay recently but haven't tried it yet. Found this whilst researching. May be of some use to you.

http://www.contrib.andrew.cmu.edu/~flip/wood/planes/stanley-078.html

 

[baldpate]

The problem isn't with the tool - I've checked that sole & sides are square, and that the blade is seated correctly (cutting edge parallel to sole and proud of the side by the mearest tad) ; it's gotta be my technique.

I think I'll try, as Jacob seems to be suggesting, gauging a depth line on the outside edge of the board and planing to that, rather than relying wholly on the depth stop and on my keeping the plane vertical.

How about clamping a piece of timber to the panel and using it as a fence?

A neat idea, but it would foul the depth stop mechanism (Hmmm - maybe if I'm planing to a depth mark, I can do without the depth stop ????).

Thanks for the replies.

 

[bugbear]

Hi,

I'm looking for tips to help me solve the problem I have when using the 78 rebate plane, whereby I end up with a rebate which isn't quite parallel to the face of the board (a bit deeper on the outside edge of the cut compared with the inner edge). I've checked that the blade is parallel to the sole, so I'm obviously unintentionally tilting the plane slightly to the left rather than keeping it absolutely vertical. I tried attaching a vertical rod to the front of the plane, to help me keep the plane dead upright, but it didn't seem to help much.

I was using the plane to cut rebates on the outer edges of the four walnut boards which will form the frame for a veneered box top panel. Despite concentrating hard, two of the four ended up out of true. Does anybody have any tips/tricks for avoiding this problem?

Thanks

Chris

It's VERY easy to allow the tool to tilt when the depth stop starts engaging, since it's (then) generating a skewing force.

To diagnose this, I suggest checking your cut surface for parallel just BEFORE you get to full depth.

Knowing this one way or the other) would tell you where your technique is failing you.

BugBear

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Use a router?

 

[Jacob]

....
I think I'll try, as Jacob seems to be suggesting, gauging a depth line on the outside edge of the board and planing to that, rather than relying wholly on the depth stop and on my keeping the plane vertical.....

Gauge face and edge, and the ends too, so you can see what's happening.
The depth gauge isn't too good on it's own - it'll keep the depth right on the inside corner of the rebate but won't prevent you tilting and getting the outside edge wrong, so I'd use marks as well; belt and braces.

 

[Argus]

.

If you are consistently running off-level to the outer face, have you checked the level of your bench, side to side?

I’m saying this because you have eliminated all the obvious causes yourself, even using the upright stick trick. We have an innate ability to judge levels and compensate for them, honed with practice, so it looks as if you are keeping the plane level to your horizon as you stand to the work.

The prospect of a degree or two slope across the bench top coupled with your efforts to keep the plane level may be worth eliminating next.


All best

 

[baldpate]

Use a router?

That's how I eventually corrected the problem - by rebating a tad deeper on the router table. But using a hand plane is so much quieter !

 

[Graham Orm]

I tried mine for the first time today. I have to say it gave a perfect result. I found It easiest to lean over the plane and move with it taking slow deliberate passes. The trickiest bit for me was where to steady it with my left hand, there's no obvious way to grip it. Even so I had no problem with wobble or lean.

 

[Charlie Stanford]

Purposely try to cut one with the opposite defect to get the feel of overcompensating in the other direction. Then try a new rebate splitting the difference in "feels."

Also make sure the fence is not set askew - measure the distance to the outside edge of the sole at the front and at the rear of the plane and adjust if necessary. Check it again after you tighten the set screws.