Stanley 80 scraper.

[Andrewf]

I know how to sharpen an ordinary cabinet scraper, however have acquired on of these to save the cramp in my hands, and have no idea how these are sharpen. Do they have a burr formed or just a bevel.

Steps back and waits for arguments about angles and best sharpening equipment.

 

[Paul Chapman]

You need a 45 degree bevel and then form a hook. I wrote a piece here about how I do it - same for the #80 and the larger scraper plane viewtopic.php?p=296427&highlight=#296427

Hope this helps.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[woodbloke]

The alternative way to form the hook is to mount the blade vertically in a vice (I use my metalwork one) and place the burnisher at around 10deg to the horizontal on top of the blade...then use several strokes of the burnisher to eventually finish when it's horizontal, the hook will then be at the correct angle.
Paul's way works, but I find this way much easier and it's the one shown in the LN clips on U-tube, but they also recommend not using a hook, which for me, really doesn't work - Rob

 

[katellwood]

+1 for woodblokes way,

If you are struggling to find a piece of steel hard enough to act as a burnisher I have always used an old knife steel which for me works brilliantly and are readily available

 

[woodbloke]

+1 for woodblokes way,

If you are struggling to find a piece of steel hard enough to act as a burnisher I have always used an old knife steel which for me works brilliantly and are readily available

The other thing you can use is the back of a half-round file close to the handle where there are no teeth. Just don't let the burnisher stray too much as you use it :mrgreen: - Rob

 

[Jacob]

You can just do a bevel and it will cut quite well.

 

[David C]

The supplied Stanley instructions specify a hook. No mention of this sharp edge perversion......

The two methods involve completely different types of cutting. The sharp edge is a scraping or type three action.

Sharp 45 degree edge. Burnish gently, starting at 45 degrees and finishing at 75 degrees with about 10 gentle strokes. Pauls description is very good.

best wishes
David Charlesworth

 

[woodbloke]

Pauls description is very good.

best wishes
David Charlesworth

I've tried both ways David and I can't get on with Paul's method, I seem to have a lot more control with the blade held vertically in the vice. What is critical though, is the adjustment of the angle of cut on the big LN scraper planes (and the V one that Paul uses) I only found the correct angle by looking at the fixed angle of the Vetitas No 80 and then by copying that angle (using a sliding bevel) onto the the LN plane. Prior to that, I could't get the thing to cut properly...does now though! - Rob

 

[Jacob]

The supplied Stanley instructions specify a hook. No mention of this sharp edge perversion......

Maybe not but it works perfectly well, for those who are not confident about turning an edge. Dead easy too - you just hone at about 45º, no need even to take off wire edges etc. Freehand too, obviously. No need to fiddle about with jigs - not easy anyway with the curved edge and the width being more than many stones.
Doesn't do to get it all from books - I think that's where a lot of people go wrong, especially if they treat them as holy writ! :roll:
It is a bit pervy though - not for everybody. :shock:

 

[Paul Chapman]

it works perfectly well, for those who are not confident about turning an edge.

What is there to be not confident about? If you look at the pictures in that link I posted, turning a hook is hardly rocket science. Just rub the burnisher to and fro on the bevel, gradually increasing the angle.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Jacob]

it works perfectly well, for those who are not confident about turning an edge.

What is there to be not confident about? ...

Paul

Ask Rob (see above). If it works without turning why bother?

...
Steps back and waits for arguments about angles and best sharpening equipment.

:lol: I think everybody agrees on 45º :shock: .
Some will probably insist on precision in minutes (of arc) and a strict polishing regime, followed by cold showers and press-ups.
Idle perverts like me won't be bothered about a few degrees either way.

 

[Harbo]

Burnishing - easy peasy though you have to be careful of not slipping and cutting your hand?

Rod

 

[Paul Chapman]

If it works without turning why bother?

But a scraper works a lot better if you do bother to turn a hook on it.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Jacob]

If it works without turning why bother?

But a scraper works a lot better if you do bother to turn a hook on it.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

Yes probably.

 

[woodbloke]

If it works without turning why bother?

But a scraper works a lot better if you do bother to turn a hook on it.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

Absolutely agree Paul, but I can't get on with turning the hook the way you do it - Rob

 

[David C]

Rob,

I suspect from your vice description, that you are overturning the hook by about 15 degrees ? This could be a source of trouble.

Two other common sources of difficulty are, unsuitable, too soft, not polished or rusty burnisher, far too much force on the burnisher. A45 degree edge turns much more readily than a 90 degree one on a hand scraper

Best wishes,
David

 

[woodbloke]

Rob,

I suspect from your vice description, that you are overturning the hook by about 15 degrees ? This could be a source of trouble.

Two other common sources of difficulty are, unsuitable, too soft, not polished or rusty burnisher, far too much force on the burnisher. A45 degree edge turns much more readily than a 90 degree one on a hand scraper

Best wishes,
David

If I'm doing anything wrong, I'd sure like to know what it is :lol: 'cos this:

...is what happens when the scraper blade hook is produced in the vice, and the blade is set to the same angle as the LV No80, shown in front for comparison. Another shot:

...of the proper shavings produced on an off-cut of Wakansian maple...so, tell me why it's not working? :lol:
That blade wasn't freshly honed at 45deg either, I just did the 'ruler trick' on the back to remove the old hook and then re-formed it - Rob

 

[Jacob]

Rob,

I suspect from your vice description, that you are overturning the hook by about 15 degrees ? This could be a source of trouble.

Two other common sources of difficulty are, unsuitable, too soft, not polished or rusty burnisher, far too much force on the burnisher. A45 degree edge turns much more readily than a 90 degree one on a hand scraper

Best wishes,
David

So -dump the burnisher and just hone at approx 45º. Once you have a working 80 you can experiment with turning the edge. Anything will do it - a 6" nail for instance.

 

[Jacob]

....

...of the proper shavings produced on an off-cut of Wakansian maple...so, tell me why it's not working? :lol:
That blade wasn't freshly honed at 45deg either, I just did the 'ruler trick' on the back to remove the old hook and then re-formed it - Rob

Funny angle. If you hone a square 90º edge on that peculiar and clumsy looking device (what is it BTW?) there would be no scope for a "hook" as the clearance angle would be already at the limit. I suggest try again but with no turning of the edge. Just a neat sharp 90º.

 

[woodbloke]

...and just to show it works on other stuff, it's doing the same thing with a little bit of:

...Wakansian rosewood and the ultimate test 8-[ 8-[

...the 'Wood from Hell'.

So please, what's wrong with what I'm doing? :lol: :lol: - Rob