splitting big logs by hand?

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mike s

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whats the best way to split big logs by hand? (without chainsaw or bandsaw)
i have an oak log that is 4ft long and 14 inches across that i want to cut into bowl blanks
i dont have a chainsaw or a big enough bandsaw so whats the best way of splitting a log that big?
i dont think i could split something that big with an axe...


the log is still dripping wet if that matters
 
assuming your bowsaw gets almost 50% through, just saw as far as you can rotate the log and saw again until you have a complete circle or have cut all the way. if it's not all the way the last part should be simple with a normal saw.
 
im sorry, i must have worded it wrong.
i want to cut the log lengthways so i do not have the pith in the middle of each blank
on the other post i said that my bow saw wont cut something 14" in diameter, your idea would work if i was cutting slices off of it but i want to cut it straight down the middle... so i think splitting the log is the best way to go
 
Splitting a 4' log would need a mechanical splitter I'd have thought, smaller ones could be done with an axe and wedges but just splitting it there is no guarantee that you would be able to get a good clean split down the middle anyway as the split would run with the grain. I think your best bet would be to find someone reasonably close who can do it for you. Using a chain saw with a normal blade would be difficult anyway cutting with the grain like that I think. Moose will know best, he is the chainsaw expert.

pete
 
Best bet would be how P-R and Pete suggest.
You will still have to cut them to the log dia size,plus make them as round as you can.
What lathe have you got :?:
 
I split a 14" by 14" cherry log over the weekend with an old handsaw. Took me ages (well, I kept leaving it and coming back to it) but it was very satisfying when I finished.

Definitely time to buy a chainsaw!
 
Wedges hammered into the end grain with a lump hammer. Axe heads, bolster chisels, hardwood wedges, whatever you can get your hands on. You hammer one in (in a crack if one has started) then another along side, which loosens the first one - and so on.
 
Oak usually splits very easily with wedges, so Jacob's method is pretty infallible. Did once try to split a 2 foot diameter willow trunk that way; that was a challenge, but I was younger and fitter then!
 
You don't say whether there are side branches. They make splitting straight much harder. You would have to cut across first if so. And expect to do some cleaning up to get the blanks flat enough for a faceplate. Also you will need a slow lathe speed because splitting will not usually give you a nice regular blank. But it is viable, in some timbers at least.

Save some bits to make wedges for the next one!

Terry

http://www.turnedwoodenbowls.com
 
I have certainly used wedges for logs up tp 18" in diameter in beech, alder, cherry etc., but have not tried oak. I found a lump hammer to be too small and used a sledge hammer, sometimes putting a wood block "behind" the wedge to drive it depper into the log.. Some of the more stubborn ones I had to make a starting cut with a saw (I used a chainsaw, but very inefficiently as it was with the grain rather than across it). A purpose made log splitting wedge with a twist to it is much more efficient that just a simple wedge. Using two of these as suggested above would make life even easier.

Mike.
 
Unless you want to turn 4' long spindles I agree that the beat thing would be to cut it in lengths a bit longer than the diameter and then split the lengths with a wedge and a sledgehammer.

Just don't do what I did when trying to cut up a yew log for firewood: the centre was rotten and I managed to hammer the wedge all the way into the centre of the log without splitting it. That was a pipper to get back out ;)
 
frugal":1i2j6tba said:
Just don't do what I did when trying to cut up a yew log for firewood: the centre was rotten and I managed to hammer the wedge all the way into the centre of the log without splitting it.

Remember it's not "the wedge", but the "wedgeS". That is, you'll need more than one, either to put in further down the split once it starts, or alongside the one you've already put in to get a bigger effect when starting the split.
 
Yes indeed. Min of 2 wedges.

Is it green or dry?

Dunno about Oak ... does the bark give any indication of how straight the grain runs?

Frugal, did you have to burn the log to retrieve your wedge? ;-}
 
rsser":2a4ujpmj said:
Frugal, did you have to burn the log to retrieve your wedge? ;-}

I might have hammered the axe head into the round nearer the edge where the wood was harder to open it up a bit... Yes I know you are not supposed to hammer the back of axe head, but I was running out of ideas. Fortunately the round I was cording up was only about 12" long.
 
will i have to buy a metal wedge or will a hardwood wedge cut on the bandsaw do?

and its still dripping wet
 
mike s":2qtivt5l said:
will i have to buy a metal wedge or will a hardwood wedge cut on the bandsaw do?

and its still dripping wet
May I suggest that you invest in a pair of steel wedges, they will payn for themselves in a very short period.

I have been using mine for over 20 years and apart from sharpening and removing the swaged over heads they will outlast me!

Regards Peter.

PS ADDENDUM. Add a good sledge hammer it saves an awful amount of hammering!
 
Yes go for the steel wedges if you are going to continue splitting logs this way.You will find the wooden wedges will split.
I used to use a couple of old axe heads to start off,then get the wooden wedges in.Your wedges will have to get wider and wider as the log open up to release the wedges that are hammered in.All good fun. :D
 
i was thinking i could start it off with an old axe head and when the gap starts to open up i could use hardwood wedges to open it further.
 
Likely you'll break the eye.

There are some hybrid axe/splitters listed in old catalogues but I've never seen one in the flesh.
 
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