Sorby Edge Pro sharpening system - and current views?

[AJB Temple]

I am considering buying one with the turners jig set for sharpening in my workshop all lathe tools, bench chisels and plane irons.

I have reviewed on line and searched here and elsewhere so have read fairly widely, though there are very few reviews after about 2013. I am attracted to the simple and clean set up, low cost belts and fast accurate results. I can sharpen well by hand but I want to minimise time spent on that. I may also use it for sharpening kitchen knives with the appropriate (£20) jig.

Does anyone have any views / advice before I push the button?

(PS I am familiar with Tormek T7 and clones, I have a high speed grinder with white and grey wheels in my shop, and I have a polishing set up, wide range of Japanese stones (mainly Naniwa pro) and some diamond plates. I have also used much larger ceramic belt tools for grinding kitchen knives from forged blanks.)

Thanks

AJ

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Just do it...you will have no regrets. if you want to use one in anger before you buy, you're welcome to come to my workshop near Camberley. It sits next to a T7 and dry grinder so you'll have an A to B comparison

 

[Lons]

Yep, still works very well for me.

 

[Jacob]

Is good. I wouldn't bother with all the jigs n stuff, you don't need them, though the extra short tool rest is handy .
I've found that the fine grits run too hot on fine blades such as 25º angle paring chisels, but they are excellent on sturdy turning chisels.

 

[AJB Temple]

Thanks gentlemen. The jigs deal for turners is pretty inexpensive so I will get it anyway as I am not at all used to grinding turning tools, especially finger nail profile. I will order today.

Bob - thanks for your kind offer. I pondered and just decided to bite the bullet anyway.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

LOL...good choice, really, you wont regret it....you might make the Tormek redundant in fact

 

[woodpig]

OMG NOT ANOTHER SORBY EDGE PRO THREAD! :lol:

Yes they are good and no you won't regret buying one. :wink:

 

[AJB Temple]

Just for general info. The Tormek T7 is abot to be replaced by a new T8 model. Late this month or early April. I have not discovered what the differences are.

 

[AJB Temple]

Now ordered from Classic Hand Tools as they price match and have always give me great service. So I shall be interested to see what it is like. Thanks for the pointers gentlemen. Adrian

 

[Trafalgar]

Oh goodness, if you're going to grind I can't imagine why you'd want to flat grind. Virtually nothing to recommend it except for certain turning tools and even then I'm not so sure. Once you understand grinding then you'll understand why only a round wheel will do and not a very large diameter one at that.

 

[Lons]

Oh goodness, if you're going to grind I can't imagine why you'd want to flat grind. Virtually nothing to recommend it except for certain turning tools and even then I'm not so sure. Once you understand grinding then you'll understand why only a round wheel will do and not a very large diameter one at that.

Well I guess if you get a wheel large enough it will produce a virtually flat grind then. :wink: :lol:

 

[Zeddedhed]

Oh goodness, if you're going to grind I can't imagine why you'd want to flat grind. Virtually nothing to recommend it except for certain turning tools and even then I'm not so sure. Once you understand grinding then you'll understand why only a round wheel will do and not a very large diameter one at that.

??? Please elucidate.

 

[Paddy Roxburgh]

I have a pro edge and really like it, however I don't think it is very good for sharpening bench chisels as it tends to dub the edges, not that much and it doesn't take long to get passed it on the stones but enough to be problematic. It's fine roughing out chisels and getting chips out of blades as you would with a grinder. For lathe tools, carving gouges, axes etc. this is not an issue. I suppose it wouldn't really matter with bench planes as dubbed corners are usually desirable although I always use the stones and strop on these.
Paddy

 

[Jacob]

Oh goodness, if you're going to grind I can't imagine why you'd want to flat grind. Virtually nothing to recommend it except for certain turning tools and even then I'm not so sure. Once you understand grinding then you'll understand why only a round wheel will do and not a very large diameter one at that.

If you use a wheel you want a hollow grind. A flat grind is almost impossible.
If you use a linisher you want a flat grind. A hollow grind is almost impossible - though you could do it on the end rollers if you really wanted to. A convex bevel is also possible and not a bad idea; tilting the tool to round the bevel will shift the point of contact and so move the hot spot.
Makes no difference which you use except in extremis a flat (or convex) grind is going to be tougher than a concave hollow grind as it involves less metal removal, for a given edge. And is better for turning.
Worst option is a small diameter wheel where the hollow is too deep and weakens the edge, or attempts to flatten the bevel leave it looking as though nibbled by rats.
Maybe I don't understand grinding but it's too late for me to change now and I'm not even going to try!

 

[Glynne]

Despite promising myself I wouldn't get involved in a sharpening debate, I'm now in!
To be honest I have been thinking about a Sorby Pro Edge and had just about talked myself out of it but I'm now fascinated about the complete difference in opinions in the size of grinding wheels.

I have both a Tormek (which is good but painfully slow) and a 6" grinder with pink & white wheels (which is quick but doesn't give quite as good an edge). I can understand Jacob's logic in terms of strength of edge, but that's were the arguments lose me in terms of whether concave, flat or convex is better for turning tools.
So I would be really interested as to the logic (CStanford) as to why a smaller wheel would be better?

 

[Zeddedhed]

Despite promising myself I wouldn't get involved in a sharpening debate, I'm now in!
To be honest I have been thinking about a Sorby Pro Edge and had just about talked myself out of it but I'm now fascinated about the complete difference in opinions in the size of grinding wheels.

I have both a Tormek (which is good but painfully slow) and a 6" grinder with pink & white wheels (which is quick but doesn't give quite as good an edge). I can understand Jacob's logic in terms of strength of edge, but that's were the arguments lose me in terms of whether concave, flat or convex is better for turning tools.
So I would be really interested as to the logic (CStanford) as to why a smaller wheel would be better?

Me too. So please (CStanford), elucidate.

 

[Trafalgar]

Unless an edge is nicked you don't need or want to grind all the way to the edge. The purpose of a hollow grind is to make a cutter self-jigging during honing and to reduce the amount of metal that needs to be removed to hone the cutter. One grinds often to keep the hollow fresh, but this doesn't mean grinding all the way to the edge every time which severely reduces the life of a tool. Only HONING should remove length from a tool. One removes length at the grinder only when working out a nick too big to conveniently hone past.

Grinding and its purpose is the most misunderstood process in woodworking by far.

 

[Jacob]

The purpose of a hollow grind is to make a cutter self-jigging during honing

But surely you'd need to jig the hollow grind to ensure the correct "self-jigging" angle? If you can do one by eye you can do the other?
I find it easier to simply hold the blade at the desired angle, as near as I can judge it, then no jigs are needed.

 

[Trafalgar]

Well Jacob you do in fact need a tool rest when grinding. You also need one when you turn at the lathe. Call them jigs if you like. I like the word that is commonly used - rest.

An Eclipse jig and an array of different grits of sandpaper on a surface flat over a relevant area (doesn't have to be that big) will produce a flat grind if one prefers it. Not surprised Sorby would introduce a machine to do this -- people will use up their Sorby tools at twice the rate so they'll sell more, right? :wink:

 

[Jacob]

Well Jacob you do in fact need a tool rest when grinding. You also need one when you turn at the lathe. Call them jigs if you like. I like the word that is commonly used - rest.

Yebbut you must be setting the tool rest by eye.
Actually you don't need a rest whilst grinding, but it does give a measure of control. Freehand grinding is easy on a horizontal linisher (belt sander up side down).