Solid Oak Worktop Problem

[jim123]

Morning All,

I fitted solid oak worktops at home recently and then fitted an ikea inset sink into them/it. I used Danish oil and sealed the worktops (about 5 coats) so they were prepped properly but since i fitted the sink, there's a black residue that is starting to appear around the rim of the sink. I oiled where the face of the cut out was a number of times and used clear silicone to fix the sink down. On top of this i used the Ikea grey gasket (rubbery putty type thing) that the lip of the sink sites on. Does anyone have any idea as to why this is happening. At first thoughts i thought that the ikea gasket was reacting to the worktop?? The sink has only been fitted for a couple of weeks and has had minimal use which was the reason why i thought it may be the gasket. There's certainly not been that much water splashed about that would cause rotting at this stage,

Thanks in advance,

Jim

 

[giantbeat]

i would also say they rubber gasket might be reacting.... funny thing rubber & wood + oils... I'm a professional drum maker by day, a lot of the fittings we buy in come with rubber gaskets, all vary in quality & style depending on where the parts originate, we have had some funny reactions with woods that were just oiled over the years..

 

[Steve Maskery]

Hmm, can you post a pic, Jim.
Oak turning black suggests iron. Did you rub down with wire wool? Or perhaps it could just be dirt? It seems a bit quick for mould to have taken hold. Did you use a sealant with a fungicide in it?

Questions but few answers, I'm afraid.
S

 

[marcus]

Without seeing a pic it's hard to say, but likely to be iron stains, quite possibly from iron in your water supply. It will tend to stay a bit damp round the edge of the sink and doesn't take much. Oak goes black at the drop of a hat.

If this is what it is then oxalic acid (applied to entire surface not just the stain, as it has a slight bleaching effect) will get rid of it. Then refinish with something more durable. And try to keep it dry in future, but it's hard to avoid altogether.

 

[ProShop]

Sounds like Tanning reaction to me probably caused by the cutter contact. Did you sand the edge after cutting, as this removes any chance of the above happening.

I've never been convinced of Danish for worktops tbh.........

 

[jim123]

Morning All,

I've attached a few photos here to help explain better.

I've given the worse areas a light rub down but won't do any more than that as it's going across the grain. I think it' some kind of staining as it's hardly been used....

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-37hFA95CTkc/UKjcmdQMWQI/AAAAAAAAAGU/-LnqRcajxlQ/s512/IMAG0143.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Iv8xhdReCLM/UKjcmFaUUoI/AAAAAAAAAGQ/2JrzysnsHkk/s512/IMAG0144.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-QdITpNLn14g/UKjcmR7GRTI/AAAAAAAAAGM/hKQ3BXCHAmY/s512/IMAG0145.jpg

Any other advice would be greatly appreciated! They cost me a few quid and to see them turn so quickly is heartbreaking!!

Thanks again,

Jim

 

[kostello]

i think that is water being soaked up by the end grain on the oak..................

i think the sink needs to come out and the edge of the cutout sealed really well.

i use a liberal amount of silicone sealant allowed to cure overnight....

 

[templecarpentry]

If you have used silicone sealant, its more than likely that the sealant is reacting. if you have used a cheap silicone that is, they have a higher liquid content than the more expensive silicones which causes bleeding.

As for the water, im not convinced, if you have oiled it as much as you say you have, then that should be eliminated.

Take the sink back out, cabinet scraper/sand back the affected areas, get some glazing putty (usually brown) on the roll from a good glass cutting shop/glaziers and use this instead of silicone and you will eliminate that issue, oil as you did before, and leave a bit of time for the oil to go off before putting the sink back in with the putty barrier.

P