Small Plane, Interesting day

[pe2dave]

The name on the blade will show which up it's supposed to be - the name wouldn't be meant to be on the underside.

Rather more importantly, the adjustment is via a gear / teeth arrangement. To be adjustable it needs to be engaged with the adjuster? But yes, the Stanley name is uppermost.

 

[Roberto Flintofski]

Stanley Rule & Level Co on the top of the blade so deffo bevel down which mine is at prob 45' so need to get myself back in garage later!

 

[Jacob]

Rather more importantly, the adjustment is via a gear / teeth arrangement. To be adjustable it needs to be engaged with the adjuster? But yes, the Stanley name is uppermost.

On the 75 the Stanley name is on the other side i.e. goes other way up; bevel down.
Also is 2mm, thick if anybody is interested!
I just spent 10 minutes setting mine up, more carefully than at any time in it's long pathetic life so far!
Works OK. Can do a full width fine shaving but that's more than required in normal use (i.e. rebates, arrises, etc).
Flatten bottom - just a light touch to reveal any defects. Slightly hollow most likely but doesn't need over working, best left alone.
Main thing is to get the top half aligned so that the blade sits tight up against all the bearing surfaces top and bottom. Just visual check - it's a bit bendy so very small error OK. Do it without the screw cap in place and then tighten the body screw firmly.
Sharpen blade 30º bevel/hone (has to be straight edge and square - there is no lateral adjustment).
Slop blade and screw cap in, set back, with cap screw firm.
Tap it with small hammer to advance it until just cutting, tighten screw.
I was surprised to find that this left a very precise but tight mouth opening at about 0.5mm. I had thought it would need filing or something.

 

[Deadeye]

Hi all, have had an interesting but frustrating day trying to re comission a small old plane I purchased of tinterwebby.

Stripped it cleaned it as best I could and then set about trying to flatten the sole and sharpen the blade, 1st time ive had a go at this, not sure if it's the style / type but I havnt had much success! The blade edge is razor sharp and I've set it so there is only a very small gap in front of it with varying amounts of blade protruding, it works "ish" I only bought it to knock the corners off square timbers and in all honesty because I like tinkering with old things.

Where am I going wrong

I thought they were supposed to have the blade bevel up?

 

[Nigel Burden]

I thought they were supposed to have the blade bevel up?

The 75 is the odd one out. Most metal bullnose planes have a low bed angle around 20 degrees. The 75 has a bed angle of 40 degrees. Put the blade in bevel up and you have presentation angle of 65-70 degrees if the blade is honed at 25- 30 degrees which would be very difficult to push.

Nigel.

 

[Deadeye]

The 75 is the odd one out. Most metal bullnose planes have a low bed angle around 20 degrees. The 75 has a bed angle of 40 degrees. Put the blade in bevel up and you have presentation angle of 65-70 degrees if the blade is honed at 25- 30 degrees which would be very difficult to push.

Nigel.

Ah. ok. Planes - probably the most confusing thing in woodworking

 

[pe2dave]

Mine is the 90 , again bevel up. Needs to be very sharp.

 

[Roberto Flintofski]

Right then, re ground 30' reassembled bevel down, and in all fairness it works a treat, however as there is no real means of adjusting the depth of cut so it's all a bit hit and miss! But it does work so bonus

 

[cowtown_eric]

These planes are a pipper to adjust (the blade is always wider than the body) But my gunmetal bullnose planes have almost uniformly suffered from a plane crash where they hit the floor nose on and deformed the body. A 75ish could suffer the same fate which would definitely give it problems. Put a straight-edge along the base and see if the nose is lower than the rest of the body. Rather thn try to straighten it and risk breakage of the brittle cast-iron, , just lap it flat

That's all I can say.

Eric