Sikkens - slow drying

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sawtooth-9

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Am currently restoring several doors and windows, all of which require stripping back to bare wood.
I have opted to use solvent based finishing rather than water based because solvent based products survive better in the harsh Aussie conditions.

Originally, these doors used a Sikkens HLSe base coat, so I decided to use the same so that I could match the outside and inside colour. The top coat was going to be Cetol 7 plus.

The HLSe coat looked great, but was very slow to dry. The top coat was VERY slow to dry - like several days ! It still feels soft and almost "sticky"

I did an experiment of mixing 2 parts of 7 plus ( alkyd resin ) with one part of a polyurethane varnish. While the finish is not quite as crisp ( transparent ) it dried really well.

Has anyone had the problem of slow drying Sikkens solvent based product, and if so, any suggestions to speed up the drying ?
Has anyone tried mixing Sikkens with polyurethane and did this have any negative effects ?

Any helpful suggestions would be appreciated.
 
It can take ages to dry in cold weather but I guess that's probably not what's causing your problem..........
 
I did a bench last year which took a week before it was touch dry then took another couple of months before the slightly plastic feel had gone. It staid inside for this time as I wasn’t confident enough for it to go outside. Having said that, 18 months of being outside it still looks freshly done. Sorry, can’t suggest a method to speed it up, but feel your pain.

Another bench using the same method dried hard in a matter of days, but the coating has since failed. (which reminds me I need to contact Sikkens and find out why). Both benches were done in the Summer.

I have always used Osmo and after the Sikkens experience will probably revert back.
 
Sikkens have come back to me. They have suggested that the failure was due to the wood I used, but haven’t commented on the drying time.

Can anyone comment on how long Sikkens Cetol 7 takes to dry?

Thanks
 
mixing cetol with a urethane is probably not a good move. Cetol is a flexible coating whereas polyurethanes are not - so, whilst they may appear compatible, it is likely there will be some peeling after a year or so exposed to the weather.
Sikkens also stressed the importance of allowing the first coat of HLSe to dry really well before applying subsequent coats.
Sikkens do not recommend the use of terebines.

So the result is apply Sikkens in low humidity, with a breeze and be patient.
 
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