Well, push this thread along ,in a direction it might not wan't to go - Does anyone else remember the use of 'Neats Foot Oil' for oilstones? The only time I ever came across it was in my school woodwork room, eons ago.
Sharpening
- Thread starter Bingy man
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Don’t know why - you can buy a tool for killing trout when fly fishing,, now if you said that about a carp I,d be upset as when time permits I go carp fishing-and yes hours and hours of waiting for one to take my bait , a decent battle to get it on the bank-quick photo and it’s returned safely back to the water . My son gets really upset about this ( he has autism) he just can’t understand it’s all about the challenge.
I thought it was now a fishing thread lol
could discuss how to correctly sharpen hooks 
Droogs
Not the Sharpest Moderator in the box
I'm with @Adam W. If you go to the trouble of catching it then you should eat it. Same with when I bow Box hunting, If I get something it goes in a pie or sausages (fresh and cured), otherwise don't bother.
OOH just had an Idea, smoked fish sausages. Why have I never tried to make that? MMH yeah with a nice smokey herby sauce, yum
OOH just had an Idea, smoked fish sausages. Why have I never tried to make that? MMH yeah with a nice smokey herby sauce, yum
John Brown
Freeloading Social media influenza
I'm fairly certain that bow Box hunting is a typo, but I'm struggling to work out what means.
Jacob
New Luddism. Awake and resist!
Smoked haddock with parsley sauce?
Smoked mackerel pate with horseradish
Kippers etc
Who needs sausages?
rogxwhit
Established Member
How do you sharpen sausages?
Agree that sharp tools are very important to us woodworkers but it has to be less of an issue if you are power tool biased and not handtools because machines like P/T 's can have disposable blades wheras a decent handplane has to be kept razor sharp. I would also say that it is the outcome that maters and not how you get there so if a sharp tool can be achieved using more modern techniques than traditional does it really mater.
One question, how many people use the so called scary sharp technique for their chiesels and what do you use to hold the chiesel as I will need to look at either sharpening one of mine or getting it sharpened soon?
One question, how many people use the so called scary sharp technique for their chiesels and what do you use to hold the chiesel as I will need to look at either sharpening one of mine or getting it sharpened soon?
The old chippie I worked with decades ago told me was commonly used when he an apprentice.
I must try some - I keep it for leather hats and my wife's walking boots.
I haven't and nor do I.... ( he has autism) he just can’t understand it’s all about the challenge.
Serendipity Gunge
Member
See Joke thread
Veritas deluxe honing guide imho as it’s almost a complete set ,, covers small tools chisels and plane irons upto 2 1/2 inch if I recall, gives you more angle settings than you will probably need , skew jig available separately and a couple of others . In use it’s pretty foolproof which is why I like it. Oh and with the deluxe you get a camber roller , also they are interchangeable so you just have to set your angle and off you go .
That sounds good, will just have to find the angle for my Ashley Isles chisel and then read up on the Scary sharp method and away I go. Not sure if I need a camber roller or skew jig.
Jacob
New Luddism. Awake and resist!
Sounds good, but bear in mind you can do all those things and more, easily, without any sort of jig at all.
There are virtually no old jigs about anywhere because nobody used them (except a few amateurs), until the amateur boom really kicked off in the late 60s.
That simple Stanley version (see earlier post) is amongst the first. It could actually be useful as a training aid for beginners wanting to get their eye in on what 25º and 30º look like! Best of a bad lot IMHO.
Scary sharp is OK if you are stuck but an oil stone is much better!
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Surely a jig is the failsafe method, not having to hold something at a precise angle. An oilstone is going to be a lot easier than using different grades of paper with the scary sharp so will look at whats around.
Jacob
New Luddism. Awake and resist!
That's how it looks but jigs are problematic - mainly the need for a flat stone, which leads on to all that stuff about flattening which modern sharpeners go on and on about. Not necessary freehand.
Not that difficult and doesn't need to be that precise. About 25º for a grind and a bit steeper for finish to the edge.
Norton IB8 is best starter.
Hi Jacob
So with that stone I assume you just use the fine side for putting the edge back on and the courser side if it needs more removed in order to put an edge back on. I am also assuming you use honing oil on an oil stone and water on a wetstone, but saying that I do recall a toolroom that used a white cutting fluid on a pink wheel when sharpening end mills.
So with that stone I assume you just use the fine side for putting the edge back on and the courser side if it needs more removed in order to put an edge back on. I am also assuming you use honing oil on an oil stone and water on a wetstone, but saying that I do recall a toolroom that used a white cutting fluid on a pink wheel when sharpening end mills.
Jacob
New Luddism. Awake and resist!
Thats about it! Coarse side at about 25º, fine side about 30º.
Avoid anything called "honing" oil, it's likely to be expensive and pointless. Just use 3in1 or similar, perhaps thinned with white spirit.
Whetstone just means a sharpening stone - there's an H in the word and it doesn't mean "wet'.
Avoid "water" stones they are just part of the modern sharpening fashion parade, but a water-bath large diameter grind-wheel is a good idea if you happen to come by one, but don't go out of your way.
I've no idea about pink stuff and tool rooms - I'm just on about hand processes in wood workshops.
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Here we go again - avoid water stones ...
You've never used water stones so you don't know.
You've never used water stones so you don't know.
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