Sharpening a scraper

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Take any gouge (screwdriver perhaps) and it will do a better job than the two Cherries burnisher that I have.
 
MIGNAL":3o5tzkq0 said:
Take any gouge (screwdriver perhaps) and it will do a better job than the two Cherries burnisher that I have.

I'm surprised at that - one of the reasons most dedicated burnishers are good and cheap is that for a "real" factory they're easy to make.

Just make high carbon steel very hard, grind and polish. Simple factory operations.

What's wrong with your example?

Edit; a search reveals that yours is too soft - although other people's factory made burnishers, even from the same maker, were hard.

BugBear
 
Yes and other people's burnisher from the same Two Cherries were soft too. I'm definitely not the only one.
 
I was taught to use a scraper well by Bruce Luckhurst thirty years ago. Up until then I'd assumed that the bigger the burr the better.

But when Bruce burnished a scraper he barely kissed it, just a couple of soft strokes and that was that.

If you're removing varnish from a boat or paint from a door then okay; big burrs, aggressive angles, ultra hard and thick scrapers, and a carbide burnisher might well be the way to go. But for fine finishing on furniture timbers it's about a small burr, well formed, on a medium hard/fairly thin scraper. I don't think recent technology and tool fashions have much to offer the cabinetmaker in this area.
 
bugbear":u3l1i7s6 said:
MIGNAL":u3l1i7s6 said:
Yes and other people's burnisher from the same Two Cherries were soft too. I'm definitely not the only one.

Yeah - people reported definitely variability:

two-cherries-burnisher-t31667.html

Sounds like bad (soft) batch got out.
ok, so it´s not just mine... it is actually the only two cherries product i regret buying. not much too add to the discussion... except that if you have an oily skin, it makes for a good and quick lubricant.
 
I used to use a rod of silver steel I picked up in a scrap yard, but now use a burnisher fashioned out of an old car engine exhaust valve stem - these are incredibly hard and can only be cut using a grinder. Exhaust rather than inlet ones are best since they are treated to support much higher temperatures, and if cut slowly do not seem to lose much hardness in the process.
/Ed
 
That's the way to do it !

Extra hard and best possible polish are required.

For many years I used an ejector pin from a plastic moulding machine, kindly given to me by a student.

Today some powder metallurgy tooling, donated by Tony Zaffuto.

The carbide tools are good but this talk of screwdriver shafts and gouge backs is not helpful to the beginner. Yes some may work but many will not, causing frustration and dissapointment.

David Charlesworth
 

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