Setting up a mortice guage

[Anonymous]

I want "board" rather than a literal "rod", so I can sit a stack of workpieces on it for marking up.

When I say rod I'm meaning a full size drawing that has the same shape as the finished piece, not just all the size's marked annd condensed onto a lath. Is that what you mean by board? So if your building a bench end, you see a full size picture of the bench end on your ply drawing surface?

 

[Anonymous]

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[Anonymous]

Thanks Jacob
I must be someone who likes the extra help of having it drawn out literally complete. I probabaly could manage with a short hand version, I've done those before but I get confused easily. :roll: :lol: Takes longer to draw but saves me time
Cheers Jonathan :wink:

 

[Anonymous]

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[Anonymous]

Once the rod is sorted you don't need to measure or calculate anything at all, more or less.

Thats basically what I was taught, "if the rod's right the job will come out right" like a mantra. :wink: But its true, even though at first I thought it was all unecessarily complicated b********s

Someones bound to ask (about the Cosman single guaged morticing method) Well if you want to mark out tennons, just use the marking guage with the same setting, but instead, scribe off the opposite side to your face side.
But this is dodgy because you will get acumulated error. If the stock used for mortice componenets doesnt match tennon component stock EXACTLY, the tennons will come out larger or smaller than the mortice and you'll be back to square 1 fannying on with a paring chisel (or scraps of veneer) to get them to fit.

FACE SIDE hmmm-nice name for a chair design :lol:

 

[bugbear]

I also do a linear one dimensional rod, but on a 6" wide piece of MFC, i.e. B&Qs finest shelving. I want "board" rather than a literal "rod", so I can sit a stack of workpieces on it for marking up.

"rod" is just traditional jargon(*) for the board you describe. What you're doing is the usual thing.

BugBear

(*) probably derived, of course, from one dimensional forebears

 

[bugbear]

What I liked about the bunch of fixed sizes was that they were just that, fixed.

Not so sure; if you have a big enough pile, the difficulty of "setting" becomes transformed in to the new difficulty of "selecting".

Which of these 17 similar gauges did I use last time?


BugBear

 

[Terryc]

So what you are all saying is that I'm trying to be too accurate and that as long as the guage is reasonably centred and I always mark from the face edge then it's OK.

Thanks everyone for the replies.

Cheers
Terry

 

[Alf]

Which of these 17 similar gauges did I use last time?

I feel this is a purely hypothetical situation - I must easily have 17 gauges and not one of them is the same as the other.

And no, I'm not a collector. You never know how many gauges you might want to set and forget in a big project, and one day I may make a big project that proves that...

Cheers, Alf

 

[bugbear]

Which of these 17 similar gauges did I use last time?

I feel this is a purely hypothetical situation - I must easily have 17 gauges and not one of them is the same as the other.

I meant the "full fixed" gauges Mr Spanon referred to; easy enough to make that having 17 (after a few months) would be unsurprising.

BugBear (who is not admitting how many gauges he has)

 

[Alf]

I wasn't concerned that having 17 gauges was a problem - just why should they all end up looking the same? You could have a lovely time coming up with different designs and/or different woods.

Cheers, Alf

 

[bugbear]

I wasn't concerned that having 17 gauges was a problem - just why should they all end up looking the same? You could have a lovely time coming up with different designs and/or different woods.

Cheers, Alf

As per your colourful avatar

BugBear

 

[Alf]

'Zactly. In fact I'm tempted, just as a feeble excuse to make more tools... 8-[