Sedgwick mb cutter block

[B. Reynolds]

Hi there, not posted before so hope this works.

I'm after some advice on my planer, its an old Sedgwick MB (with the shorter tables and a 2 knife block)
I'd really like to know how others with this machine go about getting at the grub screws in the cutter block. My old machine had wedges and bolts that, when wound out, held the knife in the block. The cutter on the Sedgwick has allen grubscrews which, when tightened, pin the clamping plate against the knife, holding the knife in the block. The slot in the sedgwick block is parallel as opposed to wedge shaped like my old machine. I imagine this is due to the age of the machine and modern safety regs insisting on a safer design. I appreciate a photo would be handy but I'm not with the machine at the moment. I'll take some tomorrow and try and post one or two.
The only way I can see of getting to the grubscrews is between the top of the outfeed roller and the bottom of the infeed table using a very long allen key! Seems crazy.
Hope I'm just being daft.
Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers Ben

 

[James-1986]

Well if its the same as the one I used to use, I just wound the infeed bed all the way down and had plenty of room to get at the grub screws and put new knives in :?:

 

[Benchwayze]

When you bought the machine, did you not get a long pattern, Allen key with a plastic 'T' bar handle ?
I have to wind the in-feed table right down too, in order to access the Allen-screws.

 

[Nicknoxx]

I have exactly the same problem and have yesterday asked the same question in another place:-
http://www.woodworkuk.co.uk/forum/viewt ... f=6&t=9271

 

[B. Reynolds]

Hi thanks for the replies.
Thats weird nicknoxx Ive been looking everywhere for a solution to this problem and thought i was on my own. Hopefully we can find a solution.
I used to set the knives on my old machine using the 'drag' method. This was easy as you could get at the tightening bolts from above with a spanner. I was tempted to buy a jig like your photo but it still seems hard to get to the grubscrews.
I have made a long allen key(500MM) with a bit of studding and a t-bar handle. This allows me to get at the grubscrews from between the outfeed roller and the infeed bed whilst still being able to see the top of the cutter. It works but can't be right.
I was hoping to find someone with the same machine to give us a rundown of their knife swapping procedure.

 

[James-1986]

You can still use the 'drag method', I've swapped the knives out loads of times on an MB with that type of block.

First off wind the infeed right down then put the new knives in. The important bit; tighten the two outside grub screws enough to hold the knife in place, but not too much that you cannot adjust it. Now get your bit of straight timber across the outfeed bed and over the block to test the height of the knife. If its too low use a small flat headed screwdriver on the ends of the block to lever it up, if its too high tap the knife down with a block of wood. Once you're happy tighten all the screws and move on to the next one.

It takes a little bit of practice, but only takes 15 minutes when you get your hand in.

 

[B. Reynolds]

Hi James 1986, thanks for the reply. Sorted it last night, wound both tables all the way down. I could then level the knives to the outfeed table and get at the grubscrews. Wedged the cutter block in place and made a couple of those magnetic strips from some ply to hold the knives in place whilst i did the grubscrews up. worked a treat. Cheers