The A 38 is the correct size. Looking at the original belt that was replaced was a bit confusing though. The new A38 shows measurements of 13mm x 1016mm. The old Optibelt-VB is 13mm x 956mm. I originally went and got an A36 belt but is was much too short. The new A38 fits perfectly. Don't know who's figuring out the conversion from inches to mm but maybe they don't know what they are doing??
SCM Minimax S45 Bandsaw Teardown & Overhaul
- Thread starter Sideways
- Start date
Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:
It's all academic to me but I have greatly enjoyed this thread and the obvious thoroughness and engineering expertise that has gone into theis rebuild. Thanks to you both and I hope you will do more of this sort of stuff for us all to admire and enjoy.
Jim
Jim
Hi jim, deema and sideways have done quite a few rip down and rebuilds, not quite sure how you search for those specifically, but always detailed and well thought out work
Tjhanks Kev. I have seen a few of them but probably not. I'll see if I can find them.Hi jim, deema and sideways have done quite a few rip down and rebuilds, not quite sure how you search for those specifically, but always detailed and well thought out work
Jim
I've just picked up a 240v one of these and was reading through the thread and realised, mine is "missing" the lower rollers. Seems to have a couple of blocks vaguely close to the blade in the lower area, but nothing adjustable as such. Have I bought a wrong 'un or was this an optional axtra 
mindthatwhatouch
Established Member
Sounds like its the same as mine, see my post number 79.I've just picked up a 240v one of these and was reading through the thread and realised, mine is "missing" the lower rollers. Seems to have a couple of blocks vaguely close to the blade in the lower area, but nothing adjustable as such. Have I bought a wrong 'un or was this an optional axtra
Just re reading this thread as I am finally getting round to sorting the bandsaw. It cuts well even in its relatively poor state.
@Wuffles i suppose it depends on the age of the machine, there are at least two variants of the machine. Without pictures it’s difficult to comment.
Have a read of this
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/bandsaw-blade-guide-theory.135481/
Have a read of this
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/bandsaw-blade-guide-theory.135481/
mindthatwhatouch
Established Member
@Sideways @deema
Thanks once again for an excellent thread.
Can I ask you regarding the tensioning mechanism.
I have the 240v version (not sure if the frame is the same) need to replace/ upgrade the tensioner. Currently using the original (and probably over compressed spring) Any major disadvantages to simply changing the single spring rather than using your three?
I am missing the plastic cup and metal sleeve from my machine, I am not intent on replacing them. However it appears that the metal sleeve sits on a square washer onto of the frame, or am I looking at it incorrectly? Would your tensioner work without these, do I need to think about something on top of the frame.
Thanks once again for an excellent thread.
Can I ask you regarding the tensioning mechanism.
I have the 240v version (not sure if the frame is the same) need to replace/ upgrade the tensioner. Currently using the original (and probably over compressed spring) Any major disadvantages to simply changing the single spring rather than using your three?
I am missing the plastic cup and metal sleeve from my machine, I am not intent on replacing them. However it appears that the metal sleeve sits on a square washer onto of the frame, or am I looking at it incorrectly? Would your tensioner work without these, do I need to think about something on top of the frame.
We chose a 3 spring solution as it was the only way we could actually achieve the spring constant necessary to tension the maximum width of blade in HSS that the machine is rated for. I approached spring manufactures and they all categorically stated that a single spring of the dimensions of the original could not be manufactured with the required spring constant. I spoke with SCM technical, and they were very evasive, they didn’t design the bandsaw and wouldn’t comment on the question of whether their spring had the required spring constant to tension the blades up to its maximum width.
The cup system is just a way of providing an indication of the blade tension. I redesigned it and made a new one for the saw we rebuilt. The original would need a new tension graphic if you change the spring. I personally wouldn’t bother and instead make a blade tension gauge and create a system to stop over compressing of the spring.
The cup system is just a way of providing an indication of the blade tension. I redesigned it and made a new one for the saw we rebuilt. The original would need a new tension graphic if you change the spring. I personally wouldn’t bother and instead make a blade tension gauge and create a system to stop over compressing of the spring.
I am setting my SMC Minimax to work, having cleaned it, especially gummed up blade guides and fitted a new blade. I am left with two problems. First, looking at the table, from the front, the right hand side is stepped down 0.50 mm compared to the left, the photo shows this. Is there any means of correcting this? Second the fence, similar to the one in this thread, is not square to the front of the table. There is no means of adjustment for this, as far as I can see
Attachments
Deema
Thank you for your reply and your excellent restoration posts, which have been very helpful.
I probably did not explain my problem well enough.
The table and blade are perpendicular, as shown. The problem is that the table is not flat across the front edge. A 0.40 mm feeler gauge can get in, as shown in the other picture below, yet when a straight edge is put across the table, beside the blade, it is flat. This suggests, to me a slight distortion of the table,
causing the outer side of the front to sag.
Thank you for your reply and your excellent restoration posts, which have been very helpful.
I probably did not explain my problem well enough.
The table and blade are perpendicular, as shown. The problem is that the table is not flat across the front edge. A 0.40 mm feeler gauge can get in, as shown in the other picture below, yet when a straight edge is put across the table, beside the blade, it is flat. This suggests, to me a slight distortion of the table,
causing the outer side of the front to sag.
There should be a round pin, shaped like a hex key, ie bent with a short side. This pushes into the table where the blade slot is and keeps the two halves true to each other. Cast iron moves, if it’s been left out / not used the two sides will no longer be level. Most times you can force the pin in, and over time, something like a year, the tables will come back and little force will be required to get the pin in. They will never be true without the pin.
Thank you. No sign of the pin. However, on further inspection, I realised that there were no bolts fixing the fence attachment bar to the table either side of the blade slot. Putting bolts into these tapped holes so that the fence attachment bar is fixed to the table at four points, reduces the step to 0.05 mm, good enough for me.
