Scheppach 260ci Planer/Thicknesser

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Hi Adam,

It was only a couple of years ago that my sister bought a top of the range 2 megapixel Fugi and that gave (to a novice like me) a first class print. Don't things move fast in the world of technology.

Regards

Mike.C
 
Mike.C":28csyjai said:
Hi Adam,

It was only a couple of years ago that my sister bought a top of the range 2 megapixel Fugi and that gave (to a novice like me) a first class print. Don't things move fast in the world of technology.

Regards

Mike.C

Yes it's moving fast, and indeed 8mexapixel cameras are available, at an affordable price. Thing is, I identified 5megapixel would give me indistriguishable results (to a film SLR) up to at least 10 x 8 prints, at which point, for me, additional mega-pixels bring no benefit - as I don't print pictures any bigger than that, and indeed, I've seen suggestion that with small sensor sizes, 8megapixel have much worse noise level, compared to 5MP so I'm happy with my current setup.

I have been considering a 2nd camera, in the 2MP to 3MP range, - one of the "ultra-compacts" type, for taking to the pub, having in your pocket just for general piccys, without it being to intrusive. These seem to range from £50 to £150/£200, depending on features, and give superb results on at least 4 x 6 prints, and certinaly plenty resolution for the web.

Adam
 
Hi Adam,

As I recall, no matter what feed speed etc, there will always be scallops left as the timber is fed through the rollers, the relationship to its position on the block will differ, with the knife cutting and missing alternately, and of course, with the block being round and the timber flat, it will leave a scallop.
Slower feed rates and/or faster block rotation minimise this.
When I was learning my trade we were told that anything less than 25 cuts per inch, or one every millimetre was not acceptable as it is too easily spotted with the naked eye.
Most machines nowadays get up around this with ease, with some hitting about 2 cuts per mm or better, hence the better finish. The ratio between the feedspeed and cutter block rotation(allowing for number of knives in the block) will give you the cuts per mm.
The serrated infeed roller should in theory have little effect on the finish as the timber has to pass under the knives so these should be removed.
Excessive pressure from this roller and a very fine cut could result in these serrations still being evident after the timber has passed through though.
The outfeed roller can cause damage from stray chips though, which is where the rubber covered roller comes in. Any chips pressed into the surface with the outfeed roller should be cushioned by the rubber, minimising damage to the finished board. A steel roller can end up leaving dents in the surface.

Cheers,
Andy
 
Mike,

I don't think your question was answered:

Only the infeed table is adjustable - the outfeed table has a hinge on one side so you can get to the thicknesser. A huge improvement on the old model :)
 
Adam,
Finally found a useful photo to show the planer marks that magically apear when a finish is applied.
planer%20marks.jpg


The photo shows the front apron of a table i'm making. The piece at the back is to stop the drawer from going back beyond the apron. The piece of mahogany was runb over the planer but not swiped with the hand plane, unlike the actual front of the apron. When a coat of oil is applied those marks pop out. They were invisible to the eye and hand before that though!
I'm sure I'm going over familiar territory, but thought you would like to see I've learned to insert photo's into posts! :shock:
best regards
Philly :D
 
I know what they look like! :oops:. I used to sand them out before I started working out what a smoothing plane was for! Normally, if you hold raw timber against the very bright light I can see them in all circumstances, and indeed, I could see them on the wood that I pushed through the planer, but not out of the thicknesser. I have to admit I haven't yet got around to oiling up that piece of wood. Must do that as a test.

Good to see you've reached the heights of images - 'tis not hard, just a little daunting.

Adam
 
Anyone got some advice for me on using the surface planer on the 260ci?

I know you have to keep the pressure on the timber on the outfeed table but I get a problem over the first few cm (a step in levels) where the timber initially touches the blades and until I can get pressure on the outfeed portion. This results in a very slightly uneven surfade (can only see a small chink of light between the timber surface and a straight edge - but it's enough).

I didn't explain that very well - hope it makes sense?
 
Hi Dig
Are you talking about fave or edge planing?
Put the cupped side down so the piece is stable (unless the timber is pretty flat, in which case ignore that), maintain a firm but not overly heavy grip on the timber, putting pressure on the INFEED side until the piece is halfway-ish over, then transfer the pressure to the outfeed side, keeping the piece moving smoothly. If the edge is really not straight, remove material roughly until you get close, then take very fine cuts to finish.
hope this is some help,
Philly :D
 
Philly,

Applying a little naptha or white spirits will reveal a lot of figure - as well as glue spots and imperfections you will want to deal with before applying a finish.

Also, if sanding for surface preparation, use of 500 grit Abralon will reveal all those dings, scratches etc that you did not see at coarser grits but which a film finish will show up. Oil as a finish is rather more forgiving
 
Thanks - I guess it just takes a bit of practise!

I was putting pressure on the outfeed timber as soon as there was any to put pressure on. Maybe that's the problem - I guess could cause the timber to rock slightly on the bed?
 
Chris,
Yeah, Cheers for that. The reason for posting was that Adam was so pleased with the finish from his new planer. I was just warning that as soon as a finish is applied that perfect surface shows those hidden machine marks.
best regards,
Philly :D
 
Just as an aside, I was once involved in some research into the scallops one gets from a 4 head planer - we focussed on Wadkins kit with 20m/sec feed rate!!!!!

The way to see if there are any scallops left on the surface is to shine a bright light at a very shallow grazing angle (10-30 degrees) across the wood. I used a small class 3 red laser with a CCD camera above the wood. Any scallops scatter the light up inot the CCD.

You could use a bright torch or laser pointer.

Just thought this might be useful/interesting

The research was aimed at predicting the vibration in the 4 cutter heads and using piezoelectric actuators to move the head accordingly - ongoing!
 
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