saying hi

[ninjabika]

hi-ya all


have just found this really great site lots of usefull information which i know i'll need,

now the story begins, i intend to build a new shed / workshop this year and could really use some advice before i start as you will find out construction isn't my thing spent 26 years as a turner/fitter (engineering) and am now a maintenance engineer , anyway enough of that.

the shed will be approx 20ft x 10ft and the 20 ft will be facing you it will be used mainly for keeping my motorbikes in both together weigh in the region of 500kg , i would like to build the shed on piers approx 300 mm sq basically 1 on each corner and then another 1 in the middle of those,

then top it off with some 150 x 50 joists. what i really need to know now is do you thing there is enough support and will the joists be enough for the weight ???


any ideas, thoughts

martin

 

[Mcluma]

Joist are strong enough, but how far appart are you doing them.

and are there any cross beam's and supports in it to prevent it from sagging

 

[Steve Maskery]

i intend to build a new shed / workshop this year

Better get a move on, mate!

I'm afraid I can't help, but welcome to the Forum.
S

 

[ninjabika]

hi

i was thinking of basically making 2 frames 10ft sq and having all the joists running along the 20 ft length and having them on 30 inc centres , or do you think they would need to be on 16 inch centres maybe ???


martin

 

[ninjabika]

i intend to build a new shed / workshop this year

Better get a move on, mate!

I'm afraid I can't help, but welcome to the Forum.
S

good point , but you know what i mean


martin

 

[Steve Maskery]

:lol:

 

[Mcluma]

sorry can not help you with foot's and inches

I'm a man of metric sizes :wink:

 

[ninjabika]

sorry can not help you with foot's and inches

I'm a man of metric sizes :wink:

that'll be 3.048 x 6.096 then i also beleive 16 inch to be the standard size for joists

 

[Mcluma]

what floor are you putting in 18mm ply/osb or 22mm ply/osb?

sheets are 122 by 2440, so evey 610 will be fine,

but on the length of 3mtrs i would have at least two middle supports, so in total 4 (every 1mtr a support against the sagging

 

[ninjabika]

the floor will probobly be 22 mm osb the stronger the better don't want £12000 worh of bike falling through it

 

[MikeG.]

Hang on a minute, chaps!!

For that span the joist size should be 175x50, at 400 centres, and that assumes a uniformly distributed load (ie, no point loads). In old money, that is 7"x2" at 16" centres. It will have to be a lot more under any heavy machinery such as lathes, and I should be very careful with those motorbikes. Wet tyres will wreck the flooring and the joists, eventually. The joists must be treated with preservative.

Before you decide on the exact spacing, (metric or imperial), you should find out whether your chosen flooring is metric or imperial, so that you can make all the joints fall nicely on a joist.

Don't forget blocking along the centre line of the joist span, insulation uinder the floor, and ventilation from 2 opposite sides of the entire floor area.

Mike

 

[Mcluma]

then 150 by 50 joist at 61 centres with adequate support (every 1mtr) will be good

also make sure there are noggins at every 61cm (lengthways)

 

[ninjabika]

how about something like this, as i said joists would be 150 x 50 mm most of the weight will be distributed around a foot print of 1.5 sq mts, what do you think.

as i said this is all new to me


martin[/img]

 

[Mcluma]

will work

however make sure the 10ft lengths are in one piece

 

[Benchwayze]

Welcome to the Forum Martin.

I was wondering how you are going to get the bikes into the shed. A ramp maybe? You might have to push the bikes up this slope at times so you'd want a nice gentle slope. (We none of us get younger ) This ramp would increase the footprint; plus you'll have to build the ramp too.

I'd go for a solid floor of some sort.

Just a thought.

John

(Already old, and finished with motor-sickles!) :lol:

 

[MickCheese]

Martin

Having erected several pre-purchased workshops I have tried both the slab method and the spot method for the floor. I have found the slab method to be much easier although a little moe work. If this is to be predominately to be used for your bikes then the side and paddock stands will wreck a wooden floor and a slab can be almost at ground level so the ramp can be less of a slope. You and a couple of friends with a mixer can do a slab in a day. A small dwarf wall to set your wall plate on using a couple of rows of bricks will keep the bottom of the wooden walls from rotting.

What bikes do you have? I have a ZXR400, Vfr400 and a Fireblade for road, commuting, touring and the track.

Welcome

Mick

 

[ninjabika]

thanks all for the replies, looks like it's going to have to be the concrete pad method i think, it's just that digging isn't one of my favourite things.

mick you say a dwarf wall, i presume you mean a single brick wide a couple of courses high and just leave a gap for the door, would i still need aalayers of sand / hardcore then concrete, what kind of depths are recommended ???

as for bikes i've got an 01 fazer 1000, and an 09 zzr 1400 one for myself and one with the misses occasionally


martin

 

[Shultzy]

Martin, if you look at my workshop build it shows how I did it with slabs, hardcore and sand.

 

[ninjabika]

Martin, if you look at my workshop build it shows how I did it with slabs, hardcore and sand.

thanks for that, excuse me for being dumb but what goes down first as in dpm , sand, hardcore ???

also what size was your building

martin

 

[MickCheese]

Martin

I am no expert and can only say what has worked for me in the past.

I just did a 100 - 150mm thick slab with steel re-enforcing grid embedded in the concrete.

Then a small wall a couple blocks high around the edge (the blocks sitting on the edge of the slab) and as you say leave a gap for the door, I used concrete blocks. I then laid a Damp Proof strip on top of the blocks and then started my stud wall with the wall plate anchored to the blocks with threaded rod embedded into the mortar as the wall was built.

I had problems with water running down the walls and seeping through the top block so if i did it again I would clad the wall so the bottom of the wall finished below the top block and dripped into a small gravel filled ditch around the building like a small soakaway.

If this is poor advice I am sure someone will be along to correct me, I will not be offended as I said, it is something that worked for me in the past, that does not make it good!

Nice bikes by the way.

Mick