Sawing Logs

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KimG

Little Woodworm
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Pembs
I made a couple of short videos about cutting logs for turning, the first also shows the little sawing rig I use to hold logs steady, nothing fancy here, just basic shapes and how I divided one large log up for bowls and blanks. I thought it might be of some interest.

The timber is Alder.

Video 1

Video 2
 
Kim you say that the alder does not retain the lovely orange colour that it has when cut fresh, I take it that you have waited for the wood to dry before using it for turning because I turned a bowl three weeks back when the wood was still wet and boy was it wet. I turned the bowl to it's finished shape and then allowed it to dry and it has still turned that lovely orange and more or less not warped very much which has surprised me as usually they shrink to an oval shape.
 
CHJ":9h4iw0n9 said:
Kim, you appear to have posted two links to the same video.

I am such a berk, thanks Chas, links now edited! :oops:
 
cedarwood":3p16k0iv said:
Kim you say that the alder does not retain the lovely orange colour that it has when cut fresh, I take it that you have waited for the wood to dry before using it for turning because I turned a bowl three weeks back when the wood was still wet and boy was it wet. I turned the bowl to it's finished shape and then allowed it to dry and it has still turned that lovely orange and more or less not warped very much which has surprised me as usually they shrink to an oval shape.

I think I said I wasn't sure if it did, the colour comes a day or so later though, it's quite pale fresh cut, if it does retain it then that will be a bonus, but you are absolutely right about it being wet, I never saw a timber so full of water before, it was spraying all over the place, soaked the bandsaw table and lathe bed. Very surprising indeed. The shavings are the same as the wood with regard to colour too, I now have two heaps of bright orange shavings in the garden (most of my shavings end up as mulch)
 
A nice saw horse.

I'd suggest investing in some chainsaw PPE - trousers/chaps, helmet with ear defenders and gloves.
It was recommended on both the chainsaw courses I've attended that you stand slightly to the side when cutting rather than directly in line with the guide bar so on the off chance you get some kick back you're not in the firing line. Once the cut is lined up there isn't usually a need to stand directly in line with the bar.
 
duncanh":2vawp6m3 said:
A nice saw horse.

I'd suggest investing in some chainsaw PPE - trousers/chaps, helmet with ear defenders and gloves.
It was recommended on both the chainsaw courses I've attended that you stand slightly to the side when cutting rather than directly in line with the guide bar so on the off chance you get some kick back you're not in the firing line. Once the cut is lined up there isn't usually a need to stand directly in line with the bar.

And start the saw before touching it onto the wood, don't start it while it is in contact with the wood.

Andy
 
Interesting how you manage to hold these awkward pieces of wood - I always have a problem with them.
Could you give more details about your saw horse please ?

Robert.
 
I'll try and put up a few pics in the next few days Robert.
 
Great little log holder. Would not replacing the sash clamp with a piece of wood and attach a bungy strap to it then you can just hook the bungy to the bottom cross piece hold the wood any better you would only need to hook the loose end to the cross bar just below.
 
The sash clamp is good for two reasons, it's thin so you only need a narrow slot to mount it, and it's heavy (although I do have a lead weight on a wire I add to the end if it needs it. Wood and bungy would work of course, but that would also make it a bit less mobile, I move it around a fair bit.
 
If you could post some pics, that would be great ! Could you give some dimensions too ? Looks like the log supporting parts are 2"x2" ?

I can't quite work out how your clamp weight is attached, so that it swivels and presumably can move up or down to accomodate different log diameters.

Robert.
 
OK here is a series of pictures that should provide sufficient info. The whole thing is extremely basic, even while I was photographing it I spotted a good modification, more on that later.

First off then is a front end view showing the timber dimensions, the other dimensions really don't matter, you can make this to whatever scale you like.

Front.jpg



This is an Oblique view showing the carrier for the sash clamp, again, as Dalboy indicated, you could substitute any number of methods to steady the timber.

Oblique.jpg



The improvement involves attaching the two log carrying 2X2 lengths to a third length of 2X2 at the front with the screws going in from below, then attaching this to the back of the 3X2 cross member, this would prevent any risk of hitting screw heads with the saw.


This view shows the main reason for the design, my garden has a severe slope, hence the legs at the front, but low at the rear. However, you could easily adapt the design to suit circumstances or preferences.

On%2Bthe%2Bslope.jpg



The two carrier sections of 2X2 are adjustable for width by means of a single screw in each into the 8X2 rear plate.

Rear%2BTransom.jpg



This is a detailed view of the sash clamp holder, the clamp is held by a 6" nail or similar.

Sash%2BHolder%2Bdetail.jpg



A front end view with the sash clamp in place holding down a log.


Sash.jpg
 
That's perfect - thank you very much ! It's simple but so effective - I shall see what I can make to let me have the benefits of a decent log sawing support and holding device.
 
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