I am also looking for my first router table. I was going to buy a SKIL router table but the experts on youtube that reviewed it pointed out that its fence is not reliable. I am not sure what to do now anymore.
Router and Router Table advice
- Thread starter gyuunyuu
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My own woodworking skill is so basic at this time that it would not be possible to make a router table. I might able to do it if I try hard as long as I have all the required parts (track, plate/lift, screws) in the first place.
After looking around a lot, I can see that for DIY/Hobby/Enthusiast, the list comes down to this:
Kreg PRS1045 550£
Kreg PRS1200 250£
Bosch RA1171 450£
Trend CRT/MK3 250£
Excel 11051 229£
LUMBER JACK RTS650 250£
Trend WRT 350£
I looked at SKIL SRT1039 but the reviews show that the fence on this is not sturdy. I looked at Bosch RA1141 but this needs 120V which is not stanard in the UK. Now I am not sure right now which is best. I need router table for dado, rabbets and giving shapes to the panel edges e.g chamfer and rounded cut shape.
The features I need is that the table not take a LOT of space. It could be as large as a table saw like Dewalt DW7492. It must be square i.e the fence be square to the surface, the surface be flat, the fence must be sturdy and must always remain parallel, the plate that holds the router must always remain parallel to the rest of the surface. There must be space for mitre gauge and it must be possible to mount accesories like feather boards that make the cuts accurate.
Since I have never used a router table, I am not sure how much the actual material of the fence and the surface matters since it is possible to have MDF and cast iron among other options. Also, I am not sure if a router life can actually benefit me at this stage. Therefore, I am just looking for the cheapest option that matches my needs mentioned in the previous paragraph. The list I have shown here is descent. There are certainly better router tables with a lot more features but they are way out of budget and too large.
One last thing, I am open to buying a separate fix base router for use with the table if it cannot be avoided.
After looking around a lot, I can see that for DIY/Hobby/Enthusiast, the list comes down to this:
Kreg PRS1045 550£
Kreg PRS1200 250£
Bosch RA1171 450£
Trend CRT/MK3 250£
Excel 11051 229£
LUMBER JACK RTS650 250£
Trend WRT 350£
I looked at SKIL SRT1039 but the reviews show that the fence on this is not sturdy. I looked at Bosch RA1141 but this needs 120V which is not stanard in the UK. Now I am not sure right now which is best. I need router table for dado, rabbets and giving shapes to the panel edges e.g chamfer and rounded cut shape.
The features I need is that the table not take a LOT of space. It could be as large as a table saw like Dewalt DW7492. It must be square i.e the fence be square to the surface, the surface be flat, the fence must be sturdy and must always remain parallel, the plate that holds the router must always remain parallel to the rest of the surface. There must be space for mitre gauge and it must be possible to mount accesories like feather boards that make the cuts accurate.
Since I have never used a router table, I am not sure how much the actual material of the fence and the surface matters since it is possible to have MDF and cast iron among other options. Also, I am not sure if a router life can actually benefit me at this stage. Therefore, I am just looking for the cheapest option that matches my needs mentioned in the previous paragraph. The list I have shown here is descent. There are certainly better router tables with a lot more features but they are way out of budget and too large.
One last thing, I am open to buying a separate fix base router for use with the table if it cannot be avoided.
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Have a look at this thread: https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/lumberjack-rt1500.101720/#post-1697781 Built in motor, lift, speed control and NVR switch, Lots of clones out there: https://www.rutlands.com/products/router-table-lift-motor, its a good starting point.
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The best advice I can offer you is don't buy a router table.
Get a 900 Watt or thereabouts quarter inch router with traditional knobs at the side and a plunge action and use it for 6 months to learn what a router is and how it works. Don't buy a palm router, don't buy a 1/2" model. When you have climbed the learning curve a bit, you will make a far wiser decision about what if any table you need.
Once you have a handheld router you can improvise a table in a few minutes from a piece of sheet material and a length of batten if you ever need one. You will learn from trying this. It's surprisingly functional.
The three big lessons you will learn are
Firstly that you normally need to take multiple passes when cutting with a router, increasing depth of cut along the way. This is very easy with the trad handheld plunge router. It takes 2 seconds. In a table it is less so. Even if you have the best table in the world with adjustment from above it takes 10-15 seconds. Without a lift it takes most of a minute. So tables tempt you into bad habits. The biggest mistake beginners make and some never get past is trying to cut too much in a single pass with a router.
Secondly, you always take the small thing to the big thing. If you need to profile the edge of (say) the side of a bookcase, sit a handheld router on the work and get on with it. Don't try and feed a 6 or 8 foot plank across a 2 foot router table three times with increasing cuts. But if you want to rout a 2 inch wide piece of wood for a jewellery box, you need a table because you can't reliably balance a handheld tool on something so small. Leave jewellery boxes 'til next year. Build your bookcase first so you have a shelf to put the jewellery box on when you've made it
Lastly, if your projects do use a lot of those shorter, and or narrower components found in high quality hardwood furniture and boxes, you may well find a table is essential. You may then decide it's worth spending £1000 on a really good table, lift, fence and specialist router motor to go in it. They are a superior solution but £££. Cheapest in the long run to buy well and buy once, but you have to understand to decide if the good tool is worth it to you. That needs some experience first.
I bought a Bosch POF 1400 ACE last year and used it for some wood working excersie. It used to make surfaces flush with each other and also to round out sharp edges.
I also created some profiles using pieces of wood for a rectangle shape hole. I screwed them together. First I drilled small hole using drill machine. Then I used my jig saw to make rough hole shape, then I used the profile with my router to create a rectangle shaped hole (the corners remained rounded).
I currently posses Dewalt circular saw, jig-saw, drill, another drill, impact driver and oscillating tool. I posses a Bosch plunge router. I also bought a second hand table saw Dewalt DW7492 but I won't use it immediately, need to get lessons from someone first.
Therefore I now understand what a router is and what it can be used to do.
I need to make boxes which will need dado and rabbet. I will also need to get specific edge profiles for joinery. The router table can achieve this in a better way than a table saw with jig can, and table saw can only really do dado and rabbet anyway as long as I have a mitre gauge or some sort of jig.
Since I will probably use the table occasionally. It is not clear if I should buy the 1,000£ range ones. I believe but this is only based on limited understanding that one of the ones in the list I put in my previous comment, should be sufficient.
I also created some profiles using pieces of wood for a rectangle shape hole. I screwed them together. First I drilled small hole using drill machine. Then I used my jig saw to make rough hole shape, then I used the profile with my router to create a rectangle shaped hole (the corners remained rounded).
I currently posses Dewalt circular saw, jig-saw, drill, another drill, impact driver and oscillating tool. I posses a Bosch plunge router. I also bought a second hand table saw Dewalt DW7492 but I won't use it immediately, need to get lessons from someone first.
Therefore I now understand what a router is and what it can be used to do.
I need to make boxes which will need dado and rabbet. I will also need to get specific edge profiles for joinery. The router table can achieve this in a better way than a table saw with jig can, and table saw can only really do dado and rabbet anyway as long as I have a mitre gauge or some sort of jig.
Since I will probably use the table occasionally. It is not clear if I should buy the 1,000£ range ones. I believe but this is only based on limited understanding that one of the ones in the list I put in my previous comment, should be sufficient.
If I were in your situation I would purchase a second hand table off of facebook marketplace/ebay etc. You arent going to understand what you want from a router table until you have used one for a little while, so if you buy a cheap used one to have a go, you will then learn how to use it and also what is important for you without spending £1000 on something that might not be ideal for you. Once you have that experience, only then you will be able to decide what table will work for you properly. You are likely to get a much better quality one if you spend £50-80 second hand, than you will if you spend the same on a new really-low quality one. Couple of examples below:
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/695415732515422/
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/810915784390690/
@Sideways advice is really sound. Routers, particularly 1/2" ones, are relatively lethal tools when compared to a lot of the other things you use in the workshop. They can be dangerous and go wrong quickly. When everyone learns the importance of understanding the bit direction by getting it wrong once when they start out, we all hope that they learn that lesson on a small 1/4" router rather than a larger one which has much greater consequences! It's a lesson almost all of us have to learn I believe, no matter whether we have been told about it already...
All of this stuff being said, you can make a perfectly good temporary router table from a bit of ply with a small hole the size of the bit cut in it. A piece of wood can be clamped on the top as a fence. There is no reason that you cannot do all of what you are talking about like that, you certainly do not need to spend £1000 on a router table to do the jobs you have discussed.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/695415732515422/
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/810915784390690/
@Sideways advice is really sound. Routers, particularly 1/2" ones, are relatively lethal tools when compared to a lot of the other things you use in the workshop. They can be dangerous and go wrong quickly. When everyone learns the importance of understanding the bit direction by getting it wrong once when they start out, we all hope that they learn that lesson on a small 1/4" router rather than a larger one which has much greater consequences! It's a lesson almost all of us have to learn I believe, no matter whether we have been told about it already...
This is a brilliantly simple notion to keep in mind when you are thinking about using a router.
All of this stuff being said, you can make a perfectly good temporary router table from a bit of ply with a small hole the size of the bit cut in it. A piece of wood can be clamped on the top as a fence. There is no reason that you cannot do all of what you are talking about like that, you certainly do not need to spend £1000 on a router table to do the jobs you have discussed.
I actually prefer to buy a 2nd hand router table. I have seen many videos in which people are using router table for various things. I do understand what a router table is capable of. I can see that I can try and build one myself as well. However, a self built table might not be "straight" and its fence might not be "parallell". This is one reason why I have not just tried to make one.
I looked for 2nd hand router tables on facebook marketplace in the last few days. They mostly turn about to be of Trend brand. What I need is a bench top router table due to the very limited space in my shed. I am not willing to spend 1000£. If I can get one of these as second hand, I will want to buy:
Kreg PRS1045 550£
Kreg PRS1200 250£
Bosch RA1171 450£
Trend CRT/MK3 250£
Excel 11051 229£
LUMBER JACK RTS650 250£
Trend WRT 350£
The requirements ultimately come down to the fence quality, the fence being sturdy and parallel. The fence being straight. The table being flat. The area where the router is mounted to be flush with the rest of the table surface. The mitre gauge slot being parallel with the fence and being "standard" width. I do not see a reason for router lift since a fixed base router should be sufficient with its dial to adjust the router bit height, its not like I am going to use it everyday. I don't think that it should cost 1000£ to have these features in a router table.
I looked for 2nd hand router tables on facebook marketplace in the last few days. They mostly turn about to be of Trend brand. What I need is a bench top router table due to the very limited space in my shed. I am not willing to spend 1000£. If I can get one of these as second hand, I will want to buy:
Kreg PRS1200 250£
Bosch RA1171 450£
Trend CRT/MK3 250£
Excel 11051 229£
LUMBER JACK RTS650 250£
Trend WRT 350£
The requirements ultimately come down to the fence quality, the fence being sturdy and parallel. The fence being straight. The table being flat. The area where the router is mounted to be flush with the rest of the table surface. The mitre gauge slot being parallel with the fence and being "standard" width. I do not see a reason for router lift since a fixed base router should be sufficient with its dial to adjust the router bit height, its not like I am going to use it everyday. I don't think that it should cost 1000£ to have these features in a router table.
The fence could be from 9 to 3 o'clock or 6 to midnight or any angle in between as it makes no difference providing you keep the feed direction right.
Every post you make shows that you are a beginner who thinks they know but hasn't enough practical experience yet.
Not trying to be unkind. Just trying to give you a reality check.
I used to do this with guys at a men's shed : Q. Why do you assume a router fence has to be parallel ? And to what ?
It has to be straight, it has to have a flat face and that flat face has to be perpendicular to the table. But if you are moulding long edges, it doesn't matter a d@mn if the fence is pointing diagonally 20 or 30 degrees to the edge of the table or of a mitre slot if you have one. The only thing that matters is that the cutter is the distance you want measured perpendicularly from the fence.
The fast way to tune the precise distance between the fence and cutter is actually to leave one end clamped as a pivot and move only the other end. However far you move the free end, you'll get just half that movement in the middle between the cutter and the fence. It enables finer adjustments. The fence isn't parallel to the table but who cares, it doesn't matter.
So when you make your diy router table, the fence is a stick with two good flat edges at 90 degrees to each other. One on the table, the other upright. Pinched down onto the table with clamps at each end. Precision adjusted by moving just one end. No router insert plate used at all so no need to try and level the edges. When the jobs done, take it apart and use it to make something else or toss it in the woodburner...
Edit. Haha. I see Spectic beat me too it while I was writing war and peace here
How do we get straight dado and rabbet if the fence is not important? The dado and rabbet needs to be a certain distance from the edge. It can be done using a mitre gauge and table saw and this will keep it straight. So do we also use mitre gauge on the router table?
What if I need a 6mm rabbet? Isn't the fence supposed to help achieve that?
TomGW
Established Member
As said, a lot of re-branded versions of this router table. I also have another random version, bought for a specific purpose and thinking it would be sold off again. However, with a similar bit of adjusting and fettling it is actually a very decent bit of kit.
A quick search seems to suggest this may be the cheapest at the moment;
https://tools4trade.co.uk/products/...y33xdNAPeROJe2Ul8WA875W34H3VKo-MaAtTrEALw_wcB
Yes from the edge of the fence but not the fence direction, so the fence allows so much of the cutter to perform the cut but it does not care about direction. I discovered this on my Kreg table where I would meticously ensure the fence was bang on square until one day I had adjusted it but the far end was out as my rule stop had come loose. The end result was the same cut but the direction of cut was just not square to the table.
Every post you make shows that you are a beginner who thinks they know but hasn't enough practical experience yet.
Not trying to be unkind. Just trying to give you a reality check.
I used to do this with guys at a men's shed : Q. Why do you assume a router fence has to be parallel ? And to what ?
It has to be straight, it has to have a flat face and that flat face has to be perpendicular to the table. But if you are moulding long edges, it doesn't matter a d@mn if the fence is pointing diagonally 20 or 30 degrees to the edge of the table or of a mitre slot if you have one. The only thing that matters is that the cutter is the distance you want measured perpendicularly from the fence.
The fast way to tune the precise distance between the fence and cutter is actually to leave one end clamped as a pivot and move only the other end. However far you move the free end, you'll get just half that movement in the middle between the cutter and the fence. It enables finer adjustments. The fence isn't parallel to the table but who cares, it doesn't matter.
So when you make your diy router table, the fence is a stick with two good flat edges at 90 degrees to each other. One on the table, the other upright. Pinched down onto the table with clamps at each end. Precision adjusted by moving just one end. No router insert plate used at all so no need to try and level the edges. When the jobs done, take it apart and use it to make something else or toss it in the woodburner...
Edit. Haha. I see Spectic beat me too it while I was writing war and peace here
Do you know where I could get formal training? I live around Gloucester/Cheltanham area, that is the closest city to me.
Formal training on hand tools (chisel, saw, plane) and power tools (router, table saw, track saw) to make boxes, drawer chests, desks, cabinets, wardrobes, fit in wardrobes, floating shelves, beds and dining table that can be extended. OK this list is too long but we have to start somewhere.
Thank you for accepting this criticism in the spirit that it was meant.
It does you credit.
A few decades back I would have pointed you towards adult education evening classes at a local school or college. Sadly adult education in practical skills has almost vanished nowadays.
A local "men's shed" may be a place to connect with like minded folk and learn from them, but in my experience you need to very careful as most members lack training and real skill in woodwork and you are likely to learn more bad practice than good.
Members here will be able to recommend good sources but personally I would choose a couple of youtube channels and take time to watch a lot of their content and try to apply it on your own projects. Don't be too ambitious at first. Go for simpler projects and aim to do them well. You'll make mistakes but figuring out how to fix them or having to redo something is a valuable lesson too.
I would choose UK channels. My first and only competent language is English so that's a big reason but there are practices commonly seen on US channels are downright dangerous so that's a reason to be wary of them.
For built in furniture, power tool woodwork, tool reviews and loads more, Peter Millard's 10 minute workshop series is well worth watching. Watch Peter's projects and you'll find things you can apply in your own home.
While I haven't watched many of them, I'd also recommend you look at Paul Sellers youtube and https://commonwoodworking.com/ for traditional and hand tool skills. You can argue around points of detail but I've seen him speak and Mr Sellers says he wants to pass on his skills to a wider audience than he can through personal teaching, so he is putting a lot of content onto youtube. If you soak that up, you'll learn a lot.
Thanks and best wishes.
I have been watching woodworking channels on youtube for like 10 months. My initial project was related to the home office.
You see I have to handle almost a dozen things connected into sockets. These are: two monitors, two laptops (personal and work related), two USB hubs, two external hard disk power supplies, one USB supply for two USB powers lamps (bad idea to power from USB hub and these are always on anyway, USB hubs are all used), printer, bench power supply, 2 oscilloscopes, one signal generator. Besides the power supply wires there are: USB keyboard wires, headset wire, USB hub wires to laptops, monitor wires into USB hubs (monitors have their own internal USB hub), headset, speakers (two wires: power and sound), monitor wires into USB hub's display ports, Ethernet, USB camera with mic. Now you can imagine that I had a monstrous amount of wires that would entangle. In my work from office desk, I attached an MDF behind its back panel. I mounted 4 extension leads, and tied most wires on the MDF. I also created a holder for the laptops where I can slide the laptop in and take it out. The laptop connects to the USB hub and since they both support display port over USB, I can connect to Ethernet, keyboard, mouse, headset, speaker, printer, ethernet, monitor 1, monitor 2, camera with mic - all through 1 single USB-C cable. So now instead of having to connect and disconnect so many USB things, I just connect 1 USB cable. This was a second hand office desk where the back panel was connect upside down, I drilled new holes, filled old holes with epoxy. Overall it took me few days of work since I had to let the epoxy dry as well. I ended up using: circular saw, hand saw, clamps, folding workbench (Black and Decker), router, rotary sander, drill machine, impact driver and jig saw along with some measurement tools to do all this. It was success at the end.
Anyway, the point is that, I have done a real woodworking project and the benefit is that those dozens of wires are hidden behind my desk and my feet don't get entangled into wires and there is no mess of entangled wires on side of my desk anymore. I am happy with the result.
Now. I want to learn some actual real woodworking skills from real people. I made this list:
https://themakershed.co.uk/courses/
https://themakershed.co.uk/woodwork-for-beginners-level-1-the-toolbox/
https://themakershed.co.uk/woodwork-for-beginners-level-2-the-cabinet/
https://themakershed.co.uk/woodwork-for-beginners-level-2-the-lidded-box/
https://themakershed.co.uk/woodwork-level-3-furniture-projects/
https://furnitureschool.co.uk/furniture-making-classes/
https://www.suttoncollege.ac.uk/course/get-into-woodwork-763000127615649
https://www.craftcourses.com/courses/jewellery-box-making-2-day-course
https://www.craftcourses.com/courses/cabinetmaking-for-beginners
https://www.craftcourses.com/courses/box-making-for-beginners
https://www.craftcourses.com/courses/woodworking-essentials-weekend-course
https://www.craftcourses.com/courses/five-day-woodwork-course-tools
https://www.craftcourses.com/courses/basic-woodworking-day-course
https://www.craftcourses.com/courses/woodworking-essentials-weekend-course
https://www.craftcourses.com/courses/jewellery-box-workshop-using-reclaimed-hardwood
https://www.craftcourses.com/courses/jewellery-box-making-2-day-course
https://rowdenatelier.com/woodworking-courses/weekend-woodworking-course/
https://boatbuildingacademy.com/product/introduction-to-woodworking-2/
https://findacraft.co.uk/product/box-making-course/
https://findacraft.co.uk/product/beginner-basics-2-day/
https://findacraft.co.uk/product/basic-woodwork-and-diy-course/
For most courses, I will have to take some time off. I can only one of the box making courses over the weekend. It is not close to my home, it will be more than 1h drive each way, but could be done. What can I do? Carpenters that do real work, they are busy, they charge a lot for making a floating shelf (I paid 350£ for one) and won't be able to make so much per hour from teaching someone.
This year, I want to make this:
You see I have to handle almost a dozen things connected into sockets. These are: two monitors, two laptops (personal and work related), two USB hubs, two external hard disk power supplies, one USB supply for two USB powers lamps (bad idea to power from USB hub and these are always on anyway, USB hubs are all used), printer, bench power supply, 2 oscilloscopes, one signal generator. Besides the power supply wires there are: USB keyboard wires, headset wire, USB hub wires to laptops, monitor wires into USB hubs (monitors have their own internal USB hub), headset, speakers (two wires: power and sound), monitor wires into USB hub's display ports, Ethernet, USB camera with mic. Now you can imagine that I had a monstrous amount of wires that would entangle. In my work from office desk, I attached an MDF behind its back panel. I mounted 4 extension leads, and tied most wires on the MDF. I also created a holder for the laptops where I can slide the laptop in and take it out. The laptop connects to the USB hub and since they both support display port over USB, I can connect to Ethernet, keyboard, mouse, headset, speaker, printer, ethernet, monitor 1, monitor 2, camera with mic - all through 1 single USB-C cable. So now instead of having to connect and disconnect so many USB things, I just connect 1 USB cable. This was a second hand office desk where the back panel was connect upside down, I drilled new holes, filled old holes with epoxy. Overall it took me few days of work since I had to let the epoxy dry as well. I ended up using: circular saw, hand saw, clamps, folding workbench (Black and Decker), router, rotary sander, drill machine, impact driver and jig saw along with some measurement tools to do all this. It was success at the end.
Anyway, the point is that, I have done a real woodworking project and the benefit is that those dozens of wires are hidden behind my desk and my feet don't get entangled into wires and there is no mess of entangled wires on side of my desk anymore. I am happy with the result.
Now. I want to learn some actual real woodworking skills from real people. I made this list:
https://themakershed.co.uk/courses/
https://themakershed.co.uk/woodwork-for-beginners-level-1-the-toolbox/
https://themakershed.co.uk/woodwork-for-beginners-level-2-the-cabinet/
https://themakershed.co.uk/woodwork-for-beginners-level-2-the-lidded-box/
https://themakershed.co.uk/woodwork-level-3-furniture-projects/
https://furnitureschool.co.uk/furniture-making-classes/
https://www.suttoncollege.ac.uk/course/get-into-woodwork-763000127615649
https://www.craftcourses.com/courses/jewellery-box-making-2-day-course
https://www.craftcourses.com/courses/cabinetmaking-for-beginners
https://www.craftcourses.com/courses/box-making-for-beginners
https://www.craftcourses.com/courses/woodworking-essentials-weekend-course
https://www.craftcourses.com/courses/five-day-woodwork-course-tools
https://www.craftcourses.com/courses/basic-woodworking-day-course
https://www.craftcourses.com/courses/woodworking-essentials-weekend-course
https://www.craftcourses.com/courses/jewellery-box-workshop-using-reclaimed-hardwood
https://www.craftcourses.com/courses/jewellery-box-making-2-day-course
https://rowdenatelier.com/woodworking-courses/weekend-woodworking-course/
https://boatbuildingacademy.com/product/introduction-to-woodworking-2/
https://findacraft.co.uk/product/box-making-course/
https://findacraft.co.uk/product/beginner-basics-2-day/
https://findacraft.co.uk/product/basic-woodwork-and-diy-course/
For most courses, I will have to take some time off. I can only one of the box making courses over the weekend. It is not close to my home, it will be more than 1h drive each way, but could be done. What can I do? Carpenters that do real work, they are busy, they charge a lot for making a floating shelf (I paid 350£ for one) and won't be able to make so much per hour from teaching someone.
This year, I want to make this:
Skimming your list above, Rowden is, I think, the most prestigious. Do a class or two elsewhere to up your skills before you book with them.
The boatbuilding academy is established and reputable.
Some of the craftcourses offerings look like they would be useful and enjoyable.
An important point is that you don't need to plan everything up front. You will learn a lot from the first course you attend and with that knowledge you'll make a better choice of what to look for in your second course. I would just choose one of the weekend courses that appeals to you and go for it.
Furnitureschool in London is a long way from you and looks costly. They wouldn't be my first choice.
Findacraft and themakershed seem more aimed at people who want to make small DIY projects, repairs, etc rather than beginning to learn serious woodwork.
It's helpful that you share your project.
Looking at the minimum skills and tools you will learn / use make that, I see
Marking out (use of square, knife, marking gauge and tape/rule)
Hand planing wood straight, square etc (#4 or 5 plane, the ability to sharpen the blade and set it correctly, use a pair of winding sticks). You can try to minimise this by buying lengths of ready processed "Planed All Round" timber in the sizes you need.
Cutting to length (marking, sawing, japanese or tenon saw with a bench hook, paring with a chisel)
Long rebates (hand rebate plane, or a handheld plunge router)
Some long saw cuts (handsaw then plane or an electric tracksaw)
Lap joints (japanese saw or smaller, fine tenon saw, chisel, optionally the plunge router)
Screw and glue (drill, screwdriver, quite a number of clamps)
Sanding and finishing
You'll need a bench to build it on that is heavy enough not to wobble when you are planing.
You will need a surface, perhaps a couple of trestles and some lengths of timber for assembling the panels so that they are flat with no bow or twist until the glue sets and they can hold their shape.
All these tools are basic handtools that you will need in future woodworking and use time and again.
The two machines that would speed up and simplify the job are a planer-thicknesser and a mitre saw. They are costly, bulky and you only need them occasionally, so not tools to buy. To have access to use machines like this occasionally is a time saver.
The boatbuilding academy is established and reputable.
Some of the craftcourses offerings look like they would be useful and enjoyable.
An important point is that you don't need to plan everything up front. You will learn a lot from the first course you attend and with that knowledge you'll make a better choice of what to look for in your second course. I would just choose one of the weekend courses that appeals to you and go for it.
Furnitureschool in London is a long way from you and looks costly. They wouldn't be my first choice.
Findacraft and themakershed seem more aimed at people who want to make small DIY projects, repairs, etc rather than beginning to learn serious woodwork.
It's helpful that you share your project.
Looking at the minimum skills and tools you will learn / use make that, I see
Marking out (use of square, knife, marking gauge and tape/rule)
Hand planing wood straight, square etc (#4 or 5 plane, the ability to sharpen the blade and set it correctly, use a pair of winding sticks). You can try to minimise this by buying lengths of ready processed "Planed All Round" timber in the sizes you need.
Cutting to length (marking, sawing, japanese or tenon saw with a bench hook, paring with a chisel)
Long rebates (hand rebate plane, or a handheld plunge router)
Some long saw cuts (handsaw then plane or an electric tracksaw)
Lap joints (japanese saw or smaller, fine tenon saw, chisel, optionally the plunge router)
Screw and glue (drill, screwdriver, quite a number of clamps)
Sanding and finishing
You'll need a bench to build it on that is heavy enough not to wobble when you are planing.
You will need a surface, perhaps a couple of trestles and some lengths of timber for assembling the panels so that they are flat with no bow or twist until the glue sets and they can hold their shape.
All these tools are basic handtools that you will need in future woodworking and use time and again.
The two machines that would speed up and simplify the job are a planer-thicknesser and a mitre saw. They are costly, bulky and you only need them occasionally, so not tools to buy. To have access to use machines like this occasionally is a time saver.
I do possess these and I have used them several times:
small and large square
different sizes T rulers
different sizes ruler with combination square
japanese saw
lots of clamps
wood glue
lots of screws
lots of sanding paper of different grade
I got chisels from TheRange (shop) but they don't seem good or I don't know how to use them. I got a hand plane also bought from TheRange but I get never get it to work since the blade needs to be positioned properly. I got some other small tools some of which I have not had to use yet but I got them from Lild (Parkside). I did realize that Parkside is OK but not great, its average at best. Their nailer is just too weak. I already possess several powertools so never had to buy any of ParkSide ones. I will buy the 30£ disk sander if I see it again though.
I hope I don't need planer-thicknesser, I should not as long as I work with panels that are the right width. I don't have a mitre saw but I think that the table saw should be able to compensate for that only to some extent.
small and large square
different sizes T rulers
different sizes ruler with combination square
japanese saw
lots of clamps
wood glue
lots of screws
lots of sanding paper of different grade
I got chisels from TheRange (shop) but they don't seem good or I don't know how to use them. I got a hand plane also bought from TheRange but I get never get it to work since the blade needs to be positioned properly. I got some other small tools some of which I have not had to use yet but I got them from Lild (Parkside). I did realize that Parkside is OK but not great, its average at best. Their nailer is just too weak. I already possess several powertools so never had to buy any of ParkSide ones. I will buy the 30£ disk sander if I see it again though.
I hope I don't need planer-thicknesser, I should not as long as I work with panels that are the right width. I don't have a mitre saw but I think that the table saw should be able to compensate for that only to some extent.
Blackswanwood
Still Learning
If you are looking for tuition it may be worth considering Waters & Acland who do an online course. It’s made up of a series of tutorial videos and you can access their tutors to ask questions/get advice. I think it costs iro £90/£100 for a years access.
Most stuff is on YouTube. I need to meet an expert. I have questions.
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