Router advice please....

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Victorthesecond

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Hello everyone. I'm very much a novice woodworker.

My niece has asked if I can make her a chopping board for her kitchen. I'd like to put a groove around the top of the board and now need to buy a router.

I wondered if you might suggest a decent budget model? I've never used a router before, so any sort of general advice on what to look for would also be very welcome!


Thank you very much in advance.

Mike
 
Hello everyone. I'm very much a novice woodworker.

My niece has asked if I can make her a chopping board for her kitchen. I'd like to put a groove around the top of the board and now need to buy a router.

I wondered if you might suggest a decent budget model? I've never used a router before, so any sort of general advice on what to look for would also be very welcome!


Thank you very much in advance.

Mike
You'll probably be fine with something like this Katsu - not expensive, comes on its own or (for about £80) with various accessories. There's also a cordless version, if that's important (a bit more expensive). For what you want, it'll do the job - and is a decent option for a wider range of jobs.

There's a Makita for about twice the price, if you're no comfortable with unknown brands.

You'll also need some router bits - I'd start with a cheap set. The bits won't be the best but they'll get you started and you'll be able to figure out what works for you. Something like this for £12 is low risk.
 
You'll also need some router bits - I'd start with a cheap set.

Could I propose an alternative view please?

If he is buying the router for a single job, the groove in the chopping board, maybe the £12 could be better spent on a single bit of good quality that will make that groove.
 
I'm very much a novice woodworker.
I'd like to put a groove around the top of the board and now need to buy a router.
I've never used a router before
3 reasons which would make me disinclined to offer a suggestion, there is a bigger picture to consider in choosing to buy a router, as in what else would/could I possibly use it for in the future, its more than a one trick pony.

I would suggest you make your chopping board without a groove at this stage, routering a groove around a board can easily go horribly wrong, and take your time to look at all the options, of which there are plenty.
 
someone correct me if I'm wrong, but If i remember rightly Bosch routers have a unique baseplate, so if you need to get bushings or anything during your woodworking journey, you'll likely have to get an adaptor too. Might be the same for other 'universal' jigs aswell.

That being said, It'll do the job and doesn't break the bank, and a 1/4" collet means that it's easy to get bits for.

Tips:
Use it on an offcut from the piece you are using first. That will show you how it's going to turn out.
In fact, use it on a whole bunch of scrapwood first to get a feel for it. Routers are loud and make a lot of sawdust. (A mask might be a good idea too!)
Always push AGAINST the cut... so if the bit is turning clockwise (Which they generally are), you want to push it counter-clockwise around your workpiece. - If you go with the cut, the router has the potential to pull itself through. Again, try it on your scraps, and you'll see what it feels like.
Get a cheap selection of bits from amazon. They usually come in a nifty little box with a diagram of what the cut looks like. Once you know which ones are your faves, then buy nice bits of that flavour. That way, you have decent bits for the cuts you make a lot, and a few others that can be for the odd one-off if needed.

I love my router - It can turn a slapped together item look pro in just a few passes!
 
I'm not a router expert by any stretch but my initial thought was that you may be limited by an 8mm collet\shank. However it does come with a 1\4" collet so should be fine.

As a newbie you may find the larger base more stable than the smaller trim routers, it has speed control etc.

Just be aware of the K marks on the cutters, direction of travel and don't try to take off too much at a time. Try it out on a few offcuts to get used to it, most importantly wear eye\ear protection. Also be very conscious of where your fingers are, sharp spinny things passing your fingertips at potentially 700+ times a second are not forgiving.
 
3 reasons which would make me disinclined to offer a suggestion, there is a bigger picture to consider in choosing to buy a router, as in what else would/could I possibly use it for in the future, its more than a one trick pony.

I would suggest you make your chopping board without a groove at this stage, routering a groove around a board can easily go horribly wrong, and take your time to look at all the options, of which there are plenty.
But we all have to start somewhere , pretty sure the op will use it for other projects , if not he can sell it on ,
 
Take a look at the special offers coming to the German discount supermarkets,just in case they have anything coming in this week.Don't just buy a router,be sure to get some eye and ear protection too.
 
Could I propose an alternative view please?

If he is buying the router for a single job, the groove in the chopping board, maybe the £12 could be better spent on a single bit of good quality that will make that groove.
Sure - that makes sense. I'd just assumed that, once one has the router, one looks for opportunities to use it. But a single good router bit would be a sensible option
 
I have a ferrex (Aldi) that is pretty much the same spec as the very well respected Katsu or the Makita (lower quality than the Makita I’m sure). I managed to mount it upside down in a bit of plastic and use it as a rudimentary table router to accurately edge two 22mm cupboard tops.
In terms of advice I would avoid the ferrex simply because as far as I can tell most of the aftermarket accessories for cheapy routers you can find to add on later need a body diameter that is slightly less than the ferrex (it has a blue plastic sleeve that adds to its body size slightly whereas most don’t) which prevents it fitting in plunge bases, table lifts etc. etc.
if I was doing it again I’d go katsu or try a £17 unnamed one off eBay and return if rubbish or buy a battery Makita clone from AliExpress.
Whichever way you go, either do it outside or ensure your extraction is good as they create a lot of dust (mask and eye or ideally whole face protection too wherever you do it of course)
 
I have no experience of quality or reliability (maybe others can advise) but I’d look at a Trend T4.
About £60 and the there are a large range of guide bushes available for it without messing about with adapters.
For a bit more, it can be found bundled with a stater set of about a dozen Trend router bits.
Get to know this machine then you’ll probably want a 12” machine to complement it.
 
Just a quick comment regarding Bosch. The green range, usually with model numbers starting with P are diy kit. The blue range are heavier duty trade models, (starting with G). I'm not saying the green range are no good, and indeed I have several of the green range myself, but just for you to be aware there is a difference.

K
 
Thank you everyone, some really good advice there. So, I think I've decided to buy the Bosch router (the green one as I can't really see if need anything more "trade ready" for the modest tuff I do) and then get some inexpensive router bits to play with/ practice with (and then more expensive bits as and when).
 
Folks, please can I ask one more question? I thought I could use oak for the board, but various YouTube videos suggest this isn't the right option as it is quite porous. What wood should I look for??
 
yeah I wouldn't recommend oak, or ash because of the open grain, go for sycamore, maple, pear, cherry or beech, ideally you want tight grain native woods that are non toxic.
 

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