replacing an old style 18v parkside (lidl) battery

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TheUnicorn

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I have a single battery that powers two tools, if and when that battery goes those tools will have to go in the bin as it stands, they're not amazing tools, but still would rather keep them in action

this video shows the battery

Does anyone know of any compatable batteries, the current 20v range definately are not compatable

thank you
 
Is it li_ion?
Its often 'possible' to buy replacement cells. Maybe if you take a battery apart, you'll see whats in there i.e cell spec and quantity, but ive not done it myself
 
Is it li_ion?
Its often 'possible' to buy replacement cells. Maybe if you take a battery apart, you'll see whats in there i.e cell spec and quantity, but ive not done it myself
It is li-ion, and yes I could possibly re-cell using the old battery as a casing, but I know that realistically it will sit on a shelf for a year or so till i get round to it if I ever do.
 
Ok. Id say ( being as its a budget tool ) your options would be to trawl ebay for a used replacement, re cell it or buy a makita 😆
 
Is there a manufacture’s address on the battery, other than the possible Lidl/Parkside one? An email (if viable) to that address might be helpful?

This presuming that Lidl aren’t any help; which sadly has been my experience in the past when it comes to after sales/technical help.
 
Have you considered using a 3d printed converter?

I have 3 'older' 18v makita drills and use them constantly. I've gone through replacement batteries over the years including trying some of the 'Chinese' copy batteries (which worked but didn't last) and so decided to buy one of the many available converters to allow me to use the 20v Aldi ferrex battery range. It works a treat.

I chose Ferrex simply because my partner had bought one of their cordless garden edge strimmers and so we already had one battery and a charger....I've since bought a second battery.

Very simply - stripped out one of the original (broken charge) batteries to leave just the shell. Quick bit of 2 wire soldering and then superglue the flat 3d printed converter to the flat base of the battery case. All done.

Below is a link to what I bought....some UK guy on eBay....I exchanged some helpful emails with him as I had a load of questions but, having completed it, I needn't have worried as it's very straight forward. If you do some simple searches you'll find that there are several alternatives to using other batteries instead of Ferrex.

I now get the same power and increased battery life for £14 a battery (I think that's what I paid anyway).

There is one downside and that the ferrex tools themselves control the over-discharging of their batteries and so I just keep an eye on the 3-led battery indicator lights on the battery and recharge when it gets to one. Not a big deal for me to do this. It maybe for you?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/19532053...j2qxwVoSs2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
 
Have you considered using a 3d printed converter?
yes that does seem an option, I'd probably go for an adaptor to a dewalt battery, like the ferrex these also don't have over discharge circuitry though.

does anyone know if bosch batteries have over discharge cicuitry in them as I have a few of them around?

as it stands it is a question of whether the tools or the battery dies first
 
I had similar problems with my old Hitachi batteries....
no conversions adapters were available then....
so found a guy with the same tools and gave the lot away and replaced my drills with the latest Hitachi models.....
fast forward 10 years and they are getting ready to be replaced again....drill are fine but the batts...!!!!!
tried the copy batts, got a couple of years out of em.....
so will now do the same again but buy Milwaukee replacemets this time....
if they last another 10 years I'll be 83 and might not need em.......hahaha.....
 
does anyone know if bosch batteries have over discharge cicuitry in them as I have a few of them around?

Surely it does not matter if BOTH the tool and the battery pack have the management stuff in them?

What I mean is if the tool shuts off on low voltage and the battery shuts off on low voltage, one of them will shut off on low voltage.

What you don't want is neither of them shutting off...


I have Milwaukee M18 packs here. The BMS PCB on one of them failed. I was able to go on Ali express and buy a replacement BMS board.

Indeed whole packs, minus the cells are availible - shell, BMS, buss connectors etc.

Third party packs are often poor as the cells are rubbish. Same with any cheap thing that uses 18650 li ion cells.

Laptops generally have really good cells, and the battery packs on them generally die because one single cell has gone bad. You can test the cells for capacity (extra equipment needed) and choose only the best - but again its pretty much always that one has died and all the rest are still great.


Swapping an individual bad cell may be solution for you. Or swapping the whole lot. Or getting an adapter plate as I really doubt that having two low volt protection systems will be an issue. But then you would likely need a new charger also.
 
What I mean is if the tool shuts off on low voltage and the battery shuts off on low voltage, one of them will shut off on low voltage.

That's is the problem though because the battery does not shut down as it hasn't got the management circuitry because it has been designed to need the tool to do that for it. Without the tool doing it the battery will just continue to supply power until it runs flat.....therefore overdischarged.

if it reaches this stage it means it won't recharge and so appears to be a broken battery.

Before I converted mine I did a fair bit of reading about it... there are many videos on YT as well.

The fortunate thing with the ferrex 'activ' stuff (don't know anything about other batteries unfortunately) is that they all have those led charge indicator lights and a few people have calculated/reasoned that if the battery drops to 1 light it's not far off being at the low level required to do a recharge (sounds a little obvious now I've written that).

Works well for me anyway and means that I get to continue to use my makitas.....all 3 of which are still in perfect-ish condition.

👍
 
That's is the problem though because the battery does not shut down because it needs the tool, itself, to do that for it. .

This is my point of confusion -

If you connected one of my M18 packs to a filament light bulb (or somthing with no intelligence) the pack would eventually shut down on its own BMS chip.

So if I connect it to a tool without a BMS, the same safety mechanism will be in place.

BUT

If I connect it to a tool with its own BMS, I'd have thought that the same would happen again, and it would just be a case of the shutoff happening due to the tools threshold OR the battery pack threshold, whichever came first?


I'm not saying I'm right, as I've never done it, but that would seem logical?



Edit -

I've looked it up, and realise where the confusion is - Makita packs dont have BMS in the pack, right? Whilst my Milwaukee M18 do...
 
I was under the impression (possibly incorrectly) that makita batteries do have protection circuitry, hence their relatively high price compared to dewalt.

My current plan, unless I can identify a battery that is usable in this generation of parkside, is to take apart the existing battery, salvage the circuitry and make an adapter using that, which in turn uses a dewalt or bosch battery as I have those around.

That said, I currently have two working tools and one working battery, all only used occasionally, so until the battery gives up on me I'll leave well enough alone.
 
I don't know for sure because I haven't checked it myself but I think that, as noted above, Makita batteries do have their own BMS and so they don't need the tools (or my drills) to have them.

Ferrex appears to be the other way around and so my (and others) mixing of them leaves, apparently, no BMSs anywhere.....hence I just keep my eye on the battery's led indicators.
👍
 
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