Record Power TS250-RS - assembly, set-up and review

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Great post about this saw that really helped me. I just assembled mine a few days ago.
I find its cutting at the rear of the blade when i push through. You mentioned that the sliding beam not being aligned parallel with the main table may be an issue however I've tried adjusting the sliding beam to be parallel to the cast iron table but the problem persists. Ive also tried adjusting the sliding beam slightly 'inwards' and 'outwards' of the table too but the issue is still there.
Any ideas where else I could check ?

Sorry, missed your post. The beam needs to be aligned to the blade rather than the top - I check this with a dial gauge fixed to the beam. I suggest you want maybe 0.05mm movement away from the blade as you push the beam forward by about 100-150mm. If the problem persists, could be that the riving knife isn't aligned and is pushing the wood onto the blade.

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Hi Siggy....Thanks for that reply....i'll give what you tried a go on the week-end. Much Appreciated....
What do you think of the approach for squaring the mitre Gauge to the mitre slot as opposed the blade? Would it work with the sliding table of the Record Power Saw ?
NewWoodworker . com has a video to it on their page
I cant post links unfortunately but if you go to

newwoodworker . com

then go to the "Tips and tricks" section.

Select "Table Saw" and then select "Squaring your mitre Gauge correctly"
I had a look at the video. I have no experience of saws where the mitre gauge slides in the slot during operation as in that video, it may work well. Using a panel saw like the Record is different, in that the t slot is only used to locate the gauge. It is designed to be locked in the slot during use and use the beam sliding for cutting action, unlike conventional t slots where the gauge is slid asking during use. As such, on the Record I square the beam travel to the blade and then adjust the gauge for square with test cuts. I get good results with this method.

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Yeah I was thinking that the fixed position of the mitre gauge may be an issue as the sliding beam could be tracking slightly differently to the mitre slot.
Just out of curiosity what error is acceptable to you with regard to cutting ?...Ive a feeling im getting fixated on attaining NASA type tolerances :cry:
I'm pretty fussy as a rule, my degree and work is in mechanical engineering so my woodworking is more Vernier calipers and dial gauges than pencil marks and marking gauges. I set up squareness with the 5 cut method and get good results. Are your cuts out of square, or is it something else about cut quality that's a problem? You may wish to check the riving knife set-up and also that the sliding table is level and flat with the cast iron top - problems here can also lead to cutting issues.
I notcied this saw only has one mitre slot. I wonder why they chose not to have a slot on the right cast iron table as most people will want that for jigs such as sleds etc
I've removed the riving knife completely to eliminate the issues i'm having. Its generally out of square issues. I've tried the 5 cut method and best i've been able to get is a milimetre difference between top and bottom of a 14 inch long test piece. This is the first table saw i've owned so im not sure how accurate I should be. I think there may be a problem with the arbor as the blade has a definite 'wobble'... when it starts and slows down I can clearly see a 'wobble'. I've tried changing the blade but problem is still there.
The sliding beam is very slightly above the cast iron table...maybe a milimetre or so.....dont know where I read it but i've heard it should be slightly proud of the cast iron table....
You should be able to get much better than that in terms of accuracy - are you using the mitre fence or the cross-cut table? I normally use the latter as I find it's more accurate and of course gives more support to the workpiece. I am happy that my saw is set up to give substantially less than 1mm out of square when cross-cutting a 4' panel. Are you able to check the run-out of the arbor with a dial gauge? I wouldn't recommend leaving the riving knife off, particularly if you rip solid timber - that is if you like your extremities intact.

To be clear, my set-up method is:
1. Align sliding table travel to the blade (set to come <0.1mm away from the blade across the distance of the blade)
2. Level sliding table with the cast iron surface. I prefer to have everything dead level - if you are only using the saw for cross-cutting, and mainly worried about the workpiece on the sliding table, then setting it a little proud will reduce friction which is why this is sometimes suggested. For operations where the table is locked or where you also want the component to the right of the blade to be accurately cut, it's clearly a disadvantage to have the beam too high. I wax the table and I don't find I have a problem with friction with the tables flush.
3. Go round the loop between 1&2 until you are happy with the results. Check table level over the travel of the beam as well as in the fixed position
4. Once you've set the sliding table up as above, leave well alone. Using the 5 cut method, adjust the fence stops on the mitre gauge and squaring table until you are happy with the results.
I use the cross cut table primarily. Rarely use the mitre fence. I've ordered a dial gauge on ebay to measure the run out on the arbor so hopefully i'll get that pretty soon and i'll refit the riving knife.
Will definitely give your method of setting up a go.
Thanks for all you help Siggy....Happy Christmas to you and all yours =D>

P.S. Do you know if this machine will accept a dado stack/blade ?