Pyro advice please

[Lightweeder]

I bought a cheapo pyro set at Harrogate Show, thinking it made sense not to spend too much until I dipped my toe in the water. Now I'm thinking I might not have done myself any favours. It's certainly not as easy as it looks, but there were very few instructions with it (Antex Craft Pyro Master is what I bought). Not even sure whether it has a thermostat, though it does appear to cool down quite a bit from time to time. Axminster have one similar, but quite a jump to the next one. Could anyone advise me whether there's a safe model to go for. If I have to lash out £60 odd or more, then so be it.

 

[Bodrighy]

Every pyor I know (including the boss) says that the only really decent ones worth getting are the ones with wire tips. Soils points take ages to heat and cool and are very limited in what you can do with them. Unfortunately unless you get lucky on Ebay as we did you are looking at at least £100. I have seen some work done with a solid tip that was pretty good mind so it can be done but as with all tools you get what you pay for. If you are serious then my advice would be to save the pennies and go for something like this The one in Axminster, though it has a wire tip uses odd tips whereas with the others you buy different guge wire on reels and make your own to suit.

Hope this helps

Pete

 

[skeetoids]

Hi,

I am taking up pyroing as an assist to my turning and my Wife bought me the Peter Child model for crimbo.

I haven't used my one yet but when I was at the Scottish Woodcraft Show I met Lisa Raby, and had a shot of it there for a good 30mins or so. I bought a cheapo solid point one a while back and the difference is amazing. I agree with Pete (check out Sue's work too), the Peter Child one is a winner.

Cheers,

Lee.

 

[Wood spoiler]

Lee

I'm glad you said that

I ordered the Peter child one last night to have a go!

Cheers

Colin

 

[skeetoids]

Hi Colin,

I was amazed at how easy I found it. The pen felt very natural and the feedback from the tip was excellent. It is also a very heavy and robust machine which should last for ages.

My wife also got me some beach plaques to practice on, I did some of these with Lisa and they where very forgiving to work on.

Cheers,

Lee.

 

[Jonzjob]

I have a Janic transformer and a Peter Childs pen and they are a great combination. The Janic pen is too fat and chunky and got a bit too warm, so I turned and made my own pen. That was a lot better but still too warm, hence the PC pen. A large improvement!! I have had the transformer for about 12 years or more and it has been very good!

Something not mentioned yet is a book on pyrography. I have this one http://www.amazon.co.uk/Complete-Pyrogr ... 801&sr=1-1 and it's worth every penny. There are some very good practice exercizes in it and some very helpful info on building your pictures..

 

[SVB]

LW,

Perhaps a bit late to the party but I posted a while ago on the unit I made:

pyrography-update-homemade-unit-t45369-15.html

You will read from the thread, others have voiced some concerns but as ever, common sense gets you quite a long way along the right road!

BRGds

S

 

[Lightweeder]

Every pyor I know (including the boss) says that the only really decent ones worth getting are the ones with wire tips. Soils points take ages to heat and cool and are very limited in what you can do with them. Unfortunately unless you get lucky on Ebay as we did you are looking at at least £100. I have seen some work done with a solid tip that was pretty good mind so it can be done but as with all tools you get what you pay for. If you are serious then my advice would be to save the pennies and go for something like this The one in Axminster, though it has a wire tip uses odd tips whereas with the others you buy different guge wire on reels and make your own to suit.

Hope this helps

Pete

I know Sue's work - and I'm glad to have your advice Pete. I'll happily pay the price for a good one. So Sue makes up her own tips ?

I have a Janic transformer and a Peter Childs pen and they are a great combination. The Janic pen is too fat and chunky and got a bit too warm, so I turned and made my own pen. That was a lot better but still too warm, hence the PC pen. A large improvement!! I have had the transformer for about 12 years or more and it has been very good!

Something not mentioned yet is a book on pyrography. I have this one http://www.amazon.co.uk/Complete-Pyrogr ... 801&sr=1-1 and it's worth every penny. There are some very good practice exercizes in it and some very helpful info on building your pictures..

Thanks for this also Jonzjob. I'll be looking at all of this.

Cheers all. Appreciate your help.

 

[Bodrighy]

Some she does, some she gets me to make. The wire can be flattened to give a sharp edge using a small hammer and the different gauge wires apparently do different things. I am afraid it's all black magic to me but she seems to know what she is talking about LOL.

Pete

 

[Lightweeder]

Thanks Pete. I need the wire thing for outlines. Will you ask Sue for me what does she use for filling in? Is it the same end?

SVB - thanks. Received and understood.

 

[Bodrighy]

She uses a thicker gauge wire and fills in with loads of little dots whingeing all the time about how tedious it is LOL. She has done some by using short strokes as well. She said that with the dots you can adjust how light or dark it is by how hot the wire is and how far apart you put the dots. There is a tip called a spoon that she tried but didn't like the effect so she uses that on it's side for strokes and some lines.

Pete

 

[Lightweeder]

She uses a thicker gauge wire and fills in with loads of little dots whingeing all the time about how tedious it is LOL. She has done some by using short strokes as well. She said that with the dots you can adjust how light or dark it is by how hot the wire is and how far apart you put the dots. There is a tip called a spoon that she tried but didn't like the effect so she uses that on it's side for strokes and some lines.

Pete

Right. Well, she should know. I got a sort of 1/4" skew tip with my cheapo and wondered if that would be any good, but I'd rather take my time with the dots. Will you thank her for me Pete.

 

[Jonzjob]

When I have large areas to cover, always a bit of a bind, I turn the pen over and use the 'flat' of the back of the wire. It covers a slightly larger area and cuts down the time to do that area.

Get the book. It tells you all about it in easy stages!!

I also have a small bit of 'JFlex' abrasive that's almost worn out in my pyro box. I use this to give the tip of the wire a small wipe over if it starts to get a build up of 'resins' on it. You soon see the difference of a before/after wipe from the way it burns again. I usually wipe the tip hot..

 

[Bodrighy]

Sue keeps on one of the abrasive tubes from my dremel on her little finger and uses that to give the tip a quick wipe over every now and then. Best thing to do is get some bits of old plywood and play around, experiment with different ways of doing things and seeing what works for you. Sue uses hers more like a pen as she is a pen and ink sketcher so she basically does that sort of thing. You will find another way that suits you

Pete

 

[Lightweeder]

Sue keeps on one of the abrasive tubes from my dremel on her little finger and uses that to give the tip a quick wipe over every now and then. Best thing to do is get some bits of old plywood and play around, experiment with different ways of doing things and seeing what works for you. Sue uses hers more like a pen as she is a pen and ink sketcher so she basically does that sort of thing. You will find another way that suits you

Pete

It's not easy to get your fingers down as far as you would with a pen or pencil, but I suppose it'll come with practice. I'll get the book Jonzjob recommends.

Cheers

 

[Bodrighy]

With the pen type that comes with the Peter Childs one Sue seems to hold it the same though as I don't draw etc it may just look like that to me LOL.

Pete