Right, I'm nearly at 50 posts, and have had my first whinge about lack of photies 
. So I thought I'd better set up a photo hosting account and show progress on this Spring's task - Project CozyWorkshop.
Some background to start with. I live in a diddy 1960's bungalow, with a single garage and postage stamp lawns. When I moved in 22 years ago it had a lounge extension, which luckily also added a few feet to the garage. Sadly this also created a 20mm step in the middle of the concrete floor .
I originally setup the workshop for car maintanance and DIY. This explains the distinct engineering bias to the workbench. This was the outside wall side (click on the thumbnail for a larger image)
Some old french doors sealed off the garage end, with my old 1930's Myford ML2 lathe taking up the other wall adjacent to my lounge.
Now I'm getting into woody stuff, I decided to extend and insulate the workshop part of the garage so I could work out there in the winter, keep the noise down for the neighbours and store more tools out there. I wanted to keep the car in the garage - I couldn't afford to insulate the whole garage, and I like the idea of always having a car sized empty space to work in - just back the car out and unfold the layout table. It also means a smaller volume to heat for everyday use. The old workbench was destroyed (sniff), after some tests with a temporary deadman. This was to work out how they work for my inevitable followup project. Rusty Dexion runners didn't help
First task was to empty the workshop into the garage. Another advantage of usually keeping the car in the garage, emptying it to make space was very easy. Leaving just enough space to lay down 2.4x1.2 sheets on battens for cutting up by circular saw.
I then had the remaining part of the original garage end wall to cope with. This was cut shorter, leaving a buttress of suitable size (as per building regs).
This is when I have to give thanks to Mike Garnham for all the wise words on insulation and condensation. I chose to use battens and 2" rockwool batts, with 11mm OSB lining. I decided to use a vapour block liner for this wall and the ceiling to save sealing the OSB sheets to each other. These are only screwed in place, so if I really need to get behind them I just unscrew - in theory. Battens were screwed to the reconstituted stone wall (very hard stuff) with Spax RA anchors. These were a revelation, they made battening very very easy and accurate. The wall on the house side was left plain, to gain some heat leak 8).
The flat roof is far too low but I'm stuck with it. Height is severely limited. So I decided to use only 6mm ply for the ceiling with 3" rockwool batts (with vent space above) friction fitted. I used a vapour block again. Due to the far from level roof joists, the 6mm ply was great for following the curves. It was a right b***** to get up there single handed. By the third sheet I had it sorted - but wish I'd known all that for the first sheet!
Once the new partition wall (2" battens, 11mm OSB each side and 2" rockwool again) was screwed in place, emulsion was splatted all over the place. Then the floor of MR T&G chipboard was laid. Half was on variable thickness battens, 5 - 18mm, to suit the far from level floor, rockwool in between, with grey 3mm closed cell concertina flooring foam on top. For the original garage part of the floor, which was much more level, I just used the 3mm foam. No vapour barrier - the foam is meant to do that, and the concrete was shown to be dry anyway (thanks again Mike!). In an ideal world I'd have used a leveler, and 2" or more battens, but ceiling height didn't allow it. The floor was finished with Leyland floor paint in "Frigate". Otherwise known as light grey. This seems so far to be adequate. Went on very easily, but the 7 days for it to fully harden was very frustrating. Lights are 2 x 5' single tube HF fluorescents by Sylvania courtesy of Screwfix with daylight tubes. These are fitted out to the sides to light the work areas and keep ceiling height clear in the centre. They seem a bit cheap and flimsy, but have already happily taken a few bashes - inevitable with a low ceiling
A simple but strong internal door was made, well insulated, draught exclusion fitted, solid bolts and hinges fitted. Up and over doors (on the garage end) are a little vulnerable so I've tried to make this wall secure to help me keep my tools. Then stuff was moved back in. I'm still at the "bung it in a crate" stage, hence the piles. Future jobs are some shelf units and cupboards. I'll be fitting french cleats along all the walls and making "modular" units so I can move then around to suit.
So, here it is as it is now, with the bandsaw, and the dust extraction propped against the window.
And here's the view from the outside "back" door. With ML2 lathe, crummy Wickes pillar drill, and the folding wooden layout table pressed into temporary use as a bench of sorts. The green sucker bottom left is latest new toy - a Camvac 286 to go with my new Trend Airace (gloat over). This project really highlighted my need to control dust. I got quite ill at one point from a day of cutting up OSB with my circular saw. After that the Trend was bought and removed that issue. And I've now broken the old Electrolux that had done dust extraction duty (badly) for the last few years, which was a good excuse to get the Camvac to get hand tool and bandsaw extraction with decent filtering and a bit more reliability.
I now have a space 2.4m wide and 2.8m long and 2.0m high, which isn't much compared to some of your workshops, but it feels like luxury to me. And I can always lay stuff out in the garage end if it isn't too cold. Thanks to all those who I've learnt from on here before I decided to tackle this - I was a lurker here long before I joined
Boz
[Edited to correct sheet size]
[Edited to embed thumbnails and link to a different route to the photo to get around Fotopic probs]
. So I thought I'd better set up a photo hosting account and show progress on this Spring's task - Project CozyWorkshop.Some background to start with. I live in a diddy 1960's bungalow, with a single garage and postage stamp lawns. When I moved in 22 years ago it had a lounge extension, which luckily also added a few feet to the garage
. Sadly this also created a 20mm step in the middle of the concrete floor .I originally setup the workshop for car maintanance and DIY. This explains the distinct engineering bias to the workbench. This was the outside wall side (click on the thumbnail for a larger image)
Some old french doors sealed off the garage end, with my old 1930's Myford ML2 lathe taking up the other wall adjacent to my lounge.
Now I'm getting into woody stuff, I decided to extend and insulate the workshop part of the garage so I could work out there in the winter, keep the noise down for the neighbours and store more tools out there. I wanted to keep the car in the garage - I couldn't afford to insulate the whole garage, and I like the idea of always having a car sized empty space to work in - just back the car out and unfold the layout table. It also means a smaller volume to heat for everyday use
. The old workbench was destroyed (sniff), after some tests with a temporary deadman. This was to work out how they work for my inevitable followup project. Rusty Dexion runners didn't help First task was to empty the workshop into the garage. Another advantage of usually keeping the car in the garage, emptying it to make space was very easy. Leaving just enough space to lay down 2.4x1.2 sheets on battens for cutting up by circular saw.
I then had the remaining part of the original garage end wall to cope with. This was cut shorter, leaving a buttress of suitable size (as per building regs).
This is when I have to give thanks to Mike Garnham for all the wise words on insulation and condensation. I chose to use battens and 2" rockwool batts, with 11mm OSB lining. I decided to use a vapour block liner for this wall and the ceiling to save sealing the OSB sheets to each other. These are only screwed in place, so if I really need to get behind them I just unscrew - in theory. Battens were screwed to the reconstituted stone wall (very hard stuff) with Spax RA anchors. These were a revelation, they made battening very very easy and accurate. The wall on the house side was left plain, to gain some heat leak 8).
The flat roof is far too low but I'm stuck with it. Height is severely limited. So I decided to use only 6mm ply for the ceiling with 3" rockwool batts (with vent space above) friction fitted. I used a vapour block again. Due to the far from level roof joists, the 6mm ply was great for following the curves. It was a right b***** to get up there single handed. By the third sheet I had it sorted - but wish I'd known all that for the first sheet!
Once the new partition wall (2" battens, 11mm OSB each side and 2" rockwool again) was screwed in place, emulsion was splatted all over the place. Then the floor of MR T&G chipboard was laid. Half was on variable thickness battens, 5 - 18mm, to suit the far from level floor, rockwool in between, with grey 3mm closed cell concertina flooring foam on top. For the original garage part of the floor, which was much more level, I just used the 3mm foam. No vapour barrier - the foam is meant to do that, and the concrete was shown to be dry anyway (thanks again Mike!). In an ideal world I'd have used a leveler, and 2" or more battens, but ceiling height didn't allow it. The floor was finished with Leyland floor paint in "Frigate". Otherwise known as light grey. This seems so far to be adequate. Went on very easily, but the 7 days for it to fully harden was very frustrating. Lights are 2 x 5' single tube HF fluorescents by Sylvania courtesy of Screwfix with daylight tubes. These are fitted out to the sides to light the work areas and keep ceiling height clear in the centre. They seem a bit cheap and flimsy, but have already happily taken a few bashes - inevitable with a low ceiling
A simple but strong internal door was made, well insulated, draught exclusion fitted, solid bolts and hinges fitted. Up and over doors (on the garage end) are a little vulnerable so I've tried to make this wall secure to help me keep my tools. Then stuff was moved back in. I'm still at the "bung it in a crate" stage, hence the piles. Future jobs are some shelf units and cupboards. I'll be fitting french cleats along all the walls and making "modular" units so I can move then around to suit.
So, here it is as it is now, with the bandsaw, and the dust extraction propped against the window
.
And here's the view from the outside "back" door. With ML2 lathe, crummy Wickes pillar drill, and the folding wooden layout table pressed into temporary use as a bench of sorts. The green sucker bottom left is latest new toy - a Camvac 286 to go with my new Trend Airace (gloat over). This project really highlighted my need to control dust. I got quite ill at one point from a day of cutting up OSB with my circular saw. After that the Trend was bought and removed that issue. And I've now broken the old Electrolux that had done dust extraction duty (badly) for the last few years, which was a good excuse to get the Camvac to get hand tool and bandsaw extraction with decent filtering and a bit more reliability.
I now have a space 2.4m wide and 2.8m long and 2.0m high, which isn't much compared to some of your workshops, but it feels like luxury to me
. And I can always lay stuff out in the garage end if it isn't too cold. Thanks to all those who I've learnt from on here before I decided to tackle this - I was a lurker here long before I joined Boz
[Edited to correct sheet size]
[Edited to embed thumbnails and link to a different route to the photo to get around Fotopic probs]
