Powered Respirators Vs Dust Masks

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Thanks for the replies.

there are allot more people wearing the disposable masks than I thought.
Is there any advantage to having the 3M 5700 reusable masks, with the P3 filters like I have, over the disposable ones you're all talking about?
Are they better than my 3M?

Cheers
 
The use of throw away, or reusable, is completely up to you, as long as the filters on the reusable are rated FFP3.

The reusable is much heavier, but I think may be easier to get a good seal to the face.
The throw away is very light, but takes a bit of effort to make it fit around the nose.

swings and roundabouts.
 
The ones i have are rated FFP1, so have been ejected and i've ordered some 3M FFP3 ones from Ebay.
 
I also suffer from asthma, which surges up if I am near dust and then takes a week or so to get back to normal. I also wear glasses and many dustmasks will steam them up unless there is a complete seal around your face and nose, but I doubt they would be so good with a beard.

I find that the Tend Airrace Professional is excellent. No dust getting in and no glasses being fogged up. I can also wear it for hours without any discomfort. Unfortunatly, it does collect moisture from your breath and needs shaking out occassionaly. If you dont need the mask that completly cover your head, then this is worth trying. Axminster sell these.https://www.amazon.co.uk/Trend-AIRACE-P ... espirators
Malcolm
 
Malcolm, have you checked the rating on the filter pad?
The trend air ace professional is only a P2. Even with it properly fitted, it doesnt filter as well as the FFP3 throwaways.

A small difference admittedly, but if you are wearing masks for many hours a day, that difference is important.
 
Hi All
In preference I use the JSP Powercap IPface mask, it is lighter than the others also the jet of air is is strong enough to not only clear any breathing concentration but also prevents any dust coming in around the face fitting.
When any occasional use of MDF I never find any trace of the dust on the inside of the mask or the filters. Of benefit there is plenty of room if you wear spectacles. I suppose if you really wanted safety there's room to wear a nose mask
as well.
Richard
 
Richard, just searched for the JSP powercap. Guess what? its rated at FFP2.

What many of the people posting here dont seem to realise is that its the FINE dust you CANT see that does the damage. looking inside and saying "I cant see any" just proves that the filter is blocking big stuff.
Its the microscopic dust that sticks the walls of your lungs and changes your lives, the big bits you can spit out (g).

Everybody makes their own choices, based mainly it seems on comfort,and as always, swayed by the power of advertising, but hopefully this thread has made everybody think more carefully about what they are wearing.
 
I worked as a boatbuilder for most of my working life, this meant using machines with no extraction at all, they just spewed to the atmosphere. Also did a lot of repair work on GRP boats which meant a lot of grinding GRP.
Back in the early 80's i was one of the few who wore masks regularly. When i set up on my own in 84 i bought a Racal airstream powered respirator, it lasted a long time but i wore it out. I got another & wore that one out as well. 3 years ago i rebuilt it & bought enough spares to keep it running till im to old to do it any more!
I have worn disposables, valved masks as well plus the Airstream. I tried a Trend airshield but found it unbalanced & clogged up quickly.
Its only when you change the main filter on a good respirator & look inside to see the quantites of fine dust that you realise just how much it is possible to breathe in.
I have had a bad reaction to western red cedar dust & iroko & never machine or sand the stuff without the respirator on my head.
As for silverline masks, if they are as good as their tools i wouldnt trust them!
The moral of the story is you only get one set of lungs.
 
Random Orbital Bob":1ybrl6uw said:
So what's the conclusion about the best protection? Sorry, not had time to read the entire thread but would be interested in the short cut to the answer.
Click to expand...

Even the cheapest mask with a FFP3 filter is better than an expensive one with with an FFP2 or FFP1 filter. Some people like the all singing all dancing air masks, some like the throw away type. The important thing is the filter and making sure the mask is fitted securely, especially the metal band around the nose.

That, or take up golf. :)
 
Bob, cost is irrelievent.
Make is irrelivant.
Powered or passive is irellivant.
The spelling of irrelivent is irrelivent.

The FILTER MATERIAL should be rated at FFP3. 1 or 2 is not as good as 3.
And of course it should fit you without air leaks around the side.
Thats it.
 
I know I'm joining the discussion a little late, but thought I'd throw in my two penith worth. I was fortunate enough to be able to keep my army S10 respirator when i left and use this whenever I am in a contaminated environment (vapour/particle/biological). I have used it when spraying, sanding or even when down a sewer. All I had to do was change the canister in in use. It takes a standardized 40mm threaded canister which is available from various suppliers to cover all the different forms of hazard you can encounter. The respirator can be had on fleabay for around £40 and the canister vary in price upto £30 depending on the desired protection. As a specs wearer it also has the advantage of being designed to accomodate prescription lens being fitted internaly to the mask and thus - no seal problems.
 
I use a belt and braces approach. I use a face mask, shop vac and air cleaner. I also leave the air cleaner on timer after I go indoors. I often use the blow function on my Nilfisk to clean off all flat surfaces of dust whilst the cleaner is running.
 
sunnybob":2arppz7k said:
Bob, cost is irrelievent.
Make is irrelivant.
Powered or passive is irellivant.
The spelling of irrelivent is irrelivent.

The FILTER MATERIAL should be rated at FFP3. 1 or 2 is not as good as 3.
And of course it should fit you without air leaks around the side.
Thats it.
Click to expand...

Have you got a link for a decent mask with FFFP3 filters at a good price?
 
woodpig":1jfk0d5j said:
sunnybob":1jfk0d5j said:
Bob, cost is irrelievent.
Make is irrelivant.
Powered or passive is irellivant.
The spelling of irrelivent is irrelivent.

The FILTER MATERIAL should be rated at FFP3. 1 or 2 is not as good as 3.
And of course it should fit you without air leaks around the side.
Thats it.
Click to expand...

Have you got a link for a decent mask with FFFP3 filters at a good price?
Click to expand...

this is the one I have: https://www.amazon.co.uk/7500-Professio ... +face+mask

And then these were the filters I bought:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/3M2135X1PAIR-2 ... ds=3m+2135

EDIT: I noticed this one too - https://www.amazon.co.uk/3M-6200M-Respi ... XAWR314PDM
Not sure really what the differences are
 
I do wonder; why are the trend masks (both the air race and air shield pro) rated at P2?
Presumably the different filter grades are for different intensities and particle types, but if it's important for people doing woodwork to have P3 filters, why when Trend is a company specialising in woodwork do they only provide the lower grade?
 
I just use throwaways as they are the lightest. My hot weather stops me from wearing large masks, especially when they enclose the face.

The tool shop I buy them from has all three grades on the same shelf. Once youre aware of the differences, I dont see a reason to buy the lower spec 2 for any reason at all, but most people just see "dust mask" without checking further.
 

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