Poolewood 2840

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Hi All,
I have the Axminster Supalathe version with electronic speed control. The inverter keeps tripping out, does anybody know where I can get a circuit diagram please. Neither Axminster or Poolewood can help.

Thanks
 
Does the inverter trip out a RCD, or is it the actual inverter that is tripping?
 
davehutch":1mm99zh0 said:
Hi All,
I have the Axminster Supalathe version with electronic speed control. The inverter keeps tripping out, does anybody know where I can get a circuit diagram please. Neither Axminster or Poolewood can help.

Thanks
Need more detailed information.

When does it trip?

  • 1. When first switched on
    2. When running freely
    3. When running under load
    4. After reasonable running time

Does headstock spindle turn freely when not powered up?
Can you switch it straight back on or do you have to wait for invertor to discharge and cool down with power removed before it will re-start?
 
The inverter tripped more often when the machine was initially switched on. It would do this whether the machine / unit was hot or at first start of the day. Spindle runs freely and this happened when spindle was either just the bare thread or loaded with a piece. The inverter had to discharge before in would reset.
However a short while ago there was a bang and one of the thyristors has somewhat parted company. A new unit is on order from Haydock Converters of Blackburn.

Many thanks however for your time and interest.
Rgds
Dave
 
I would seriously get the motor checked out for short circuits between windings or to case.

The symptoms of invertor shutting down and wanting time to discharge/cool before restart smacks of current overload.

Don't want to do exactly the same with new invertor.
 
A couple more posts and you can message people - it's not a good idea to broadcast your email address, I'd delete it.
There are a few threads about them, I did one on a bearing change.

If you are thinking to get a chuck for it, Beaufort Inks have the rights to Versachuck and should have them before long - there is a backplate for them that fits the Poolewood.
 
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Tailstock shaft keeps jamming it was ok until locking lever snapped and replaced it with new one also shaft turns when winding handle does something fit in jetway?
 
They are notorious for clogging up, which doesn't help. Extend the quill and remove it. Take the retaining plates of the tailstock, take the screw out and give it a clean internally and externally. You need a circlip pliers to take the wheel off - I've not bothered putting the circlip back on mine. Before you reassemle, check that the end of the Bristol lever/bolt/whatever fits all the way up and down the keyway easily and is easily turned when engaged to full depth. Give the quill a light oil and insert it, you will feel the lever/lock engage in the keyway as you turn it. Screw the lead screw back, replace the wheel and you're done.
I found mine clogged up regular as clockwork when deep drilling, so left the circlip off - once in a while the wheel drops off but it doesn't matter. I saw no need to lock the quill - I've never known it slip - so I replaced the Bristol lever with a bolt and lock nut to stop its rotating. It's done up so the quill just moves freely end to end then locked.
 
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Sounds like the replacement locking lever for the tailstock barrel/quill is not locating in the barrel/quill keyway. If that is the case reduce the end of the locking lever a little with a grinder until it fits in the keyway.
Thanks
They are notorious for clogging up, which doesn't help. Extend the quill and remove it. Take the retaining plates of the tailstock, take the screw out and give it a clean internally and externally. You need a circlip pliers to take the wheel off - I've not bothered putting the circlip back on mine. Before you reassemle, check that the end of the Bristol lever/bolt/whatever fits all the way up and down the keyway easily and is easily turned when engaged to full depth. Give the quill a light oil and insert it, you will feel the lever/lock engage in the keyway as you turn it. Screw the lead screw back, replace the wheel and you're done.
I found mine clogged up regular as clockwork when deep drilling, so left the circlip off - once in a while the wheeel drops but it doesn't matter. I saw no need to lock the quill - I've never known it slip - so I replaced the Bristol lever with a bolt and lock nut to stop its rotating. It's done up so the quill just moves freely end to end then locked.
thanks
 
I bought my mechanical Poolewood lathe some 20 years ago'ish.....
after reading the above I'm not so worried now as I thought it was some cheapo machine....
it's now demoted to small work as the Wadkin RS is the go to machine...
 
I've not long scored my fathers Poolewood 28/40 (after finding out what make it was only today), and I am having issues getting it squared up. I may need to procure a MT2 to MT2 alignment piece. It spent the last 20 years in an open farm shed in country Queensland on a dirt floor. So it needs a little TLC.
 
Anyone who owns a Poolewood PM me your e-mail and I will send you an interesting PDF relating to the 28-40 lathe

I also have the original handbook if anyone would like a copy
Hi, I have just purchased a 28-40 and would be really interested in any information you have. Bob
 
Anyone who owns a Poolewood PM me your e-mail and I will send you an interesting PDF relating to the 28-40 lathe

I also have the original handbook if anyone would like a copy
[email protected]
If you have ANY info On the 28-40. Please Share... I'd like get rid of the Wind up For faster Speeds to an Electric Type.. so I'm looking for info On this Also. I'm also going to change the poles for solid Longer Ones. Any advice is always welcome. Mike
 
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