I just moved my Sedgwick CP onto a level concrete plinth so it's time to fettle it a bit in it's permanent home. The infeed and outfeed tables are in decent condition, but I think the outfeed is too low - when I turn the infeed height adjustment to zero, the outfeed is a few mm above it. I can just drop the infeed a little to match, but I don't like using the machine out of kilter. Also there seems to be a drop-off in level - the infeed is level to the floor, the outfeed drops off a little at the end (maybe 1mm, I don't have a straightedge to check). Finally, the outfeed is very slightly off level in section, i.e. front-to-back the near side is too low. I levelled the machine to the infeed table, maybe I should have levelled it to the outfeed as it's the infeed with adjustment and therefore more play? Any advice would be great, even if that advice is to leave it alone!
Planer Thicknesser not square - can I use shims?
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Trevanion
Greatest Of All Time
You tend to get the outfeed table spot on first and then adjust the infeed table to match exactly coplanar to the outfeed. The actual level of the machine doesn't matter too much so long as the tables are set correctly.
The perfect setting is having the surface of the outfeed table absolutely perfectly in line with the cutter block (the block itself, not the cutters), so that one side isn't higher from the block than the other. You want the surface of the outfeed table to be roughly 2-3mm higher than the block. Then with a 1.5m long, good, actually straight edge clamped to the outfeed table, you adjust the infeed table to be coplanar with the outfeed using feeler gauges or blocks or some kind of consistent spacer between the straight edge and the table.
It's a fiddly process and it does take time, once set though it should be good for life so long as nobody lifts the machine by the tables or something daft. 9/10 times, alignment issues on a planer are due to the machine being shifted around by its tables.
The perfect setting is having the surface of the outfeed table absolutely perfectly in line with the cutter block (the block itself, not the cutters), so that one side isn't higher from the block than the other. You want the surface of the outfeed table to be roughly 2-3mm higher than the block. Then with a 1.5m long, good, actually straight edge clamped to the outfeed table, you adjust the infeed table to be coplanar with the outfeed using feeler gauges or blocks or some kind of consistent spacer between the straight edge and the table.
It's a fiddly process and it does take time, once set though it should be good for life so long as nobody lifts the machine by the tables or something daft. 9/10 times, alignment issues on a planer are due to the machine being shifted around by its tables.
I also have a CP, a modern machine, blue and white. Only clarify as the different vintages might be different.
Firstly check that the infeed table is parallel with the cutter spindle (not the blades) preferably using a clock. You should set the clock back from the edge as they often dip at the edge. Often tables will have wear c1 to 4” from where the fence is normally positioned. Check the table is flat / take it into account when checking the spindle. If this is the case, which it should be, the outfeed table is then setup to the infeed. (Level the machine to the infeed or thicknesser tables). There are bolts under the table to adjust the outfeed table. Firstly with the infeed at zero, adjust the front edge of the outfeed to be both level and parallel with the infeed. Again a clock is the best method. Then using the best straight edge you have adjust the outfeed table extremities to be level.
Firstly check that the infeed table is parallel with the cutter spindle (not the blades) preferably using a clock. You should set the clock back from the edge as they often dip at the edge. Often tables will have wear c1 to 4” from where the fence is normally positioned. Check the table is flat / take it into account when checking the spindle. If this is the case, which it should be, the outfeed table is then setup to the infeed. (Level the machine to the infeed or thicknesser tables). There are bolts under the table to adjust the outfeed table. Firstly with the infeed at zero, adjust the front edge of the outfeed to be both level and parallel with the infeed. Again a clock is the best method. Then using the best straight edge you have adjust the outfeed table extremities to be level.
I took off and cleaned both tables (infeed not easy on your tod) and cleaned & greased and the setup is a lot better. Zero is actually zero now (with an adjustment of the indicator position) and overall both tables are level to each other. There are two issues now:
1. The outfeed drops off by 1/32” which I hope some shims will sort
2. The lip of the outfeed, where it meets the cutter block, is slightly higher in the centre. If I slide my straight edge (Bosch plunge saw rail) on the infeed up to the outfeed, it will be level on the edges but will catch the lip in the centre. The difference is 1/6 turn on the height adjuster (can’t find my feeler gauge!).
Surface grinding is not an option for me, I wonder could I orbital sand the lip away?
Is it possible that the lip is intentional to leave spring? (No mention of this in the manual). If I leave it, should I level the infeed to the high point or the low point?
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1. The outfeed drops off by 1/32” which I hope some shims will sort
2. The lip of the outfeed, where it meets the cutter block, is slightly higher in the centre. If I slide my straight edge (Bosch plunge saw rail) on the infeed up to the outfeed, it will be level on the edges but will catch the lip in the centre. The difference is 1/6 turn on the height adjuster (can’t find my feeler gauge!).
Surface grinding is not an option for me, I wonder could I orbital sand the lip away?
Is it possible that the lip is intentional to leave spring? (No mention of this in the manual). If I leave it, should I level the infeed to the high point or the low point?
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Trevanion
Greatest Of All Time
Are you certain it's a curve in the outfeed and not just a dip in the infeed?
Trevanion
Greatest Of All Time
Helvetica":2khx1fac said:
The flatness of the infeed table doesn't matter so much as the outfeed table does (It's still relatively important though, you don't want something that's millimeters out of flat.), so long as your knives are in-line to the outfeed table it will plane a flat board even if the infeed table was skewed off at an angle.
mbartlett99
Established Member
I'm afraid I'm not familiar with your machine itself but I can't help feel that you're starting from the wrong place.
Your datum - starting point - is not the floor or anything else. The cutting block - not the blades they wear unevenly - is where to start the process. Is the outfeed parallel to that? Then bring the infeed to be coplanar to the outfeed table. Reason being is that the cutter block is rigidly mounted to the chassis and not intended to be adjusted - tables are referenced from this point. I'd be surprised if there are no adjustments on the outfeed to bring it into range.
Yes a straight edge is necessary, no you don't need to go to axminster - they're a woodworking company this is engineering (try Cromwells - ok on price) and a dial height indicator is very useful indeed. How can you know if the table has a curve if you have no straight edge? Oh, and don't mess with an ally one - steel from a decent maker all the way, it will last longer than you; Starrett, Mitutoyo and Moore & Wright are all good brands.
I'd expect a good machine - like a Sedgwick - to get easily within 0.1mm albeit with a good degree of patience which is what most machine setting requires. The depth of cut indication is only approximate - my Robland doesn't even have one.
Your datum - starting point - is not the floor or anything else. The cutting block - not the blades they wear unevenly - is where to start the process. Is the outfeed parallel to that? Then bring the infeed to be coplanar to the outfeed table. Reason being is that the cutter block is rigidly mounted to the chassis and not intended to be adjusted - tables are referenced from this point. I'd be surprised if there are no adjustments on the outfeed to bring it into range.
Yes a straight edge is necessary, no you don't need to go to axminster - they're a woodworking company this is engineering (try Cromwells - ok on price) and a dial height indicator is very useful indeed. How can you know if the table has a curve if you have no straight edge? Oh, and don't mess with an ally one - steel from a decent maker all the way, it will last longer than you; Starrett, Mitutoyo and Moore & Wright are all good brands.
I'd expect a good machine - like a Sedgwick - to get easily within 0.1mm albeit with a good degree of patience which is what most machine setting requires. The depth of cut indication is only approximate - my Robland doesn't even have one.
It’s fairly common in my experience for the tables to have a slight hump. Usually the fence has always been used set far back on the table so that only say the first few inches get any real wear / use. This wears the tables unevenly and creates a curve. Since the tables wear together and assuming you dont do a lot that needs the full width just move use the fence so that your using the centre of the table until it goes flattens out, and then move it so your using the front edge of the table. You can get them as flat as they need to be (across the width) if your using it a lot fairly quickly. The machining marks wear away faster than the full table.
Every quarter I move the fence to a new position to wear the tables as evenly as possible on mine.
Every quarter I move the fence to a new position to wear the tables as evenly as possible on mine.
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