Pivot mechanism for 'Cheval Mirror'

[jimmy rivers]

Hi Folks,

I've been asked to design a 'Cheval' mirror. The customer would like to be able to adjust the pitch of the mirror.

I've been Googling away but to not much joy. Can anybody kindly recommend hardware or an attractive DIY method?

It would be great if I could adjust the friction as it's likely to pivot below centre on the lower third.

Many thanks,

Jim

 

[AndyT]

This do?

http://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/..._swivel_movement_bracket_electro_brass/977829

 

[swb58]

Isn't balance the key to this design? Mounting so that the mirror is top heavy doesn't sound like the best plan to me.

 

[gasman]

I made one which I designed a few years ago as a commission
Really heavy oval mirror in a walnut surround, suspended in an ash / walnut frame / cabinet. It was based on a Pinch Design http://pinchdesign.com/products/iona-cheval-mirror - obviously I did not copy it though
Balance was absolutely key here due to the weight
I used M6 bolts to secure it - epoxied the head into a matching wood 'handle' and then recessed an M6 threaded insert into the mirror part. It worked really well and you could loosen the bolt a fraction, tilt the mirror then retighten. I will did out a photo this weekend if you would like
Mark

 

[Jacob]

The dressing table sized ones which I've fiddled with every now and then have both knobs turning to tighten/loosen via a stud into a plate with threaded hole, inside the mirror frame. You could fake it with a nut and bolt, either with the nut soldered to a plate or set captive into a block.

 

[bugbear]

Isn't balance the key to this design? Mounting so that the mirror is top heavy doesn't sound like the best plan to me.

Agreed - even if you did find a fastening strong enough to hold it when tightened, it would
still be a bit more "exciting" than you'd like when you loosened it for adjustment.

Add some (nicely hidden) counterweights, if you have to.

BugBear

 

[Steve Maskery]

I made a maple stand with bubinga frame. I still have it, although it is still all wrapped up in bubble.
The nobs are wooden withM6 epoxied into them and the thread is tapped directly into the bubinga. It worked astonishingly well, I never stripped the thread, although I do accept that you might want some sort of threaded insert in there instead. Not all woods are as hard and fine as bubinga.
Worked for me.

 

[jimmy rivers]

Thanks for the feedback guys, I hadn't considered a counter weight as an option

To make things clearer, attached is a sketch of the original proposed design (with a fixed mirror!), it may appear a little unusual but the customer has special requirements regarding storage and the mirror is to partner up with a dressing table made last year (below). The drawer section will be a little larger and become two drawers; one at 120mm (h) and another at 200mm (h).



Jim

PS. For those interested the key element of the design was to cope with the sun from the south facing window, The Maple framework has been finished in OSMO Uviwax 7200 ( a new product for me!) and all the panels are grey'd glass, walnut trim to the front only; will be interesting to see how it fairs.