Permanent thread lock
- Thread starter bertterbo
- Start date
Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:
bertterbo
Established Member
I can't do anything like that.
The motor has a threaded shaft like this :
A piece screws onto the thread. Usually the motor only rotates one way, such that it can only screw on tighter. But I am now using it in a project where the motor can reverse.
- I can't grind a flat on the thread as there is nowhere to use a grub screw.
- It's too small to try and add any kind of keyway
I really am looking for an option that allows me to "glue" it in place. But it sounds like I am out of luck.
Have you actually tried superglue?
bertterbo
Established Member
I now have some 638 on order
In the mean time, I did some tests with CA glue and some threaded locker I found in the house. I believe its 871. Just securing a nut to some M8 thread.
After 12 hours to cure (probably needs 24 hrs) I was surprised by the results. The CA was actually harder to dismantle.
Hopefully the 638 will be better.
Sorry, I did actually read that.
Agent_zed
Established Member
Welder? I've welded some surprising things, including a broken hinge on a laptop which apart from a burnmark on the spacebar from a spark worked fine after that.
Multisolve or brake cleaner are what I use to clean threads etc and let it dry, don’t wipe it. Surprised it moved as it’s good stuff. Can you get a pair of slim jam nuts side by side on the shaft .?
If you can get a nut on it then you can use a grubscrew, just screw the nut on tight then drill through one of the flats and just into the shaft. Take the nut off and thread the hole. Then reassemble using a grubscrew with a pointed tip that will engage in the hole in the shaft.
bertterbo
Established Member
As explained a few times now, thats not an option unfortunately.
bertterbo
Established Member
I think I'll just settle for CA glue, as that seemed to would the best.
Just out of interest, nobody has mentioned old fashioned 2 part araldite. Would filling the threads not make a decent bond, or is Araldite too brittle?
bertterbo
Established Member
I suggest JB Weld, which I believe would be very similar to Araldite. CA glue was much stronger.
This looks like a windscreen wiper motor. There is generally an arm bolted onto it.
As a starting point: you could bend that into a U shape and then weld or jb weld a boss with a grubscrew/key way etc to suite your input shaft. Using the epoxy would be easier to get concentric
If you haven't got the arm it's usually 3 or 4mm thick with a tapered hole in it to suite the shaft taper, when you tighten the nut the splines on the shaft dig into the arm
Chris
bertterbo
Established Member
This was meant to say "I suggested" (in the first post)
bertterbo
Established Member
Not sure I follow. Can you show a picture or photo of what you mean?
It is a windscreen wiper motor but I have not additional pieces
bertterbo
Established Member
What I have is a metal wheel like below. But there is no keyway. And it's about 200mm diameter. The center hole is threaded to suite the M8 thread on the motor shaft. It simply screws on.
Initially this was not a problem, as the motor always rotated in a direction that caused the thread to tighten. But now it goes in reverse, so can undo if there is enough resistive force.
As you can see, there is no way of adding a grub screw. Which was why I was asking for a glue.
Initially this was not a problem, as the motor always rotated in a direction that caused the thread to tighten. But now it goes in reverse, so can undo if there is enough resistive force.
As you can see, there is no way of adding a grub screw. Which was why I was asking for a glue.
Tris
What am I doing here?
You may well know this already, but CA glue cures with moisture, so may be worth dampening the bore of the wheel before assembly to improve the cure
If the wheel is 200mm in diameter then even a moderate force is going to be exerting so much torque I doubt you are going to do it, short of welding it on.
bertterbo
Established Member
Yep. Agreed.
It was worth a try though
